Front Wheel hub/bearing/abs speed sensor
Site Moderator
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 9,657
Likes: 24
From: Louisville, Ky
I have had both of mine done under warranty now. Both failed before 50K. The right one at 30K. If I was doing it myself, I would go to Autozone and get a Timken for a little over $100 with a lifetime warranty. But I let the dealer do mine under warranty. The driver side also got a new tie-rod end while they were at it. Said it was a little loose. 
Both times when mine failed, they roared like I had mud terrain tires on the thing.
Both times when mine failed, they roared like I had mud terrain tires on the thing.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
My driver side front wheel bearing was shot to **** and screaming loud. I called Dodge to see what they would ask for a replacement part, as well as the service. As always, I was wholly shocked and somewhat surprised that they were going to ask $240 for the hub/bearing assembly (with the ABS speed sensor), and an additional $400 for the labor for ONE wheel bearing replacement. As the procedure for replacing the hub/bearing is relatively easy (pretty much the hardest part was dealing with how well the bolts were torqued), I wanted to know what other Dodge dealers were asking. I called 4. All asked $240 for the part, and labor ranged from $300-500.
I came on here just to simply say: change your own wheel bearings. It is so easy. Do not let the dealer take you on this. It is amazing what they are able to charge.
In summary: get the wheel off, so 5 lugs come off. There's a really TOUGH axle nut that is torqued on there, so use a breaker bar to aid in this, and remove the axle nut. To get the caliper and rotor off, two caliper bolts come off. Hang your caliper with a bungee chord. To get the hub off, three hub bolts come off. Annnnnnd you're done. Install new hub/bearing and snap on the speed sensor if you chose 4-wheel ABS. It is NOT a $550-750 repair. Youtube search for "truck wheel bearing replacement", and there are many many many videos of dodges, chevys, fords, blah blah blah with a step by step guide.
Fck dealer maintenance. It does not mean you are getting better quality work. More often than not, it means you are getting screwed out of money that you shouldn't have to give them. Just because your neighborhood mechanic doesn't work solely on Dodges all day long (who knows, he might tho?!) doesn't mean he or she cannot do equivalent or better work than your dealer.
I came on here just to simply say: change your own wheel bearings. It is so easy. Do not let the dealer take you on this. It is amazing what they are able to charge.
In summary: get the wheel off, so 5 lugs come off. There's a really TOUGH axle nut that is torqued on there, so use a breaker bar to aid in this, and remove the axle nut. To get the caliper and rotor off, two caliper bolts come off. Hang your caliper with a bungee chord. To get the hub off, three hub bolts come off. Annnnnnd you're done. Install new hub/bearing and snap on the speed sensor if you chose 4-wheel ABS. It is NOT a $550-750 repair. Youtube search for "truck wheel bearing replacement", and there are many many many videos of dodges, chevys, fords, blah blah blah with a step by step guide.
Fck dealer maintenance. It does not mean you are getting better quality work. More often than not, it means you are getting screwed out of money that you shouldn't have to give them. Just because your neighborhood mechanic doesn't work solely on Dodges all day long (who knows, he might tho?!) doesn't mean he or she cannot do equivalent or better work than your dealer.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
How did you get to the three bolts?? When I tried the front drive axle did not give me enough room to get a socket in there. I tried removing the axle also to no avail. YouTube videos made it seem so easy .
Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
Only time I let the dealer touch my truck is if it is covered under warranty, or I do not have access to the tools i would need to do the job the right way the first time....
But props for getting your hands dirty bro!
But props for getting your hands dirty bro!
Congrats on saving yourself some dough and getting your fingers dirty... much better than letting the dealer stick it to ya.
Out of curiosity, did you torque the axle/hub nut down to proper specs? It is quite important to prevent premature failure (which being too tight or too loose will do). I'm not sure exactly what the torque setting is for your truck, but it should be somewhere around 175 ft. lbs.
Out of curiosity, did you torque the axle/hub nut down to proper specs? It is quite important to prevent premature failure (which being too tight or too loose will do). I'm not sure exactly what the torque setting is for your truck, but it should be somewhere around 175 ft. lbs.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
I've always reused them unless they came with the new wheel hub assembly, which is sometimes the case...
The worst is when the wheel bearing assembly doesn't come with wheel studs and the wheel studs need to be put back on the new hub after you take them off the old one... fml I hate that part!
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 105
From: PA
Finally beat the axle end with a large sledge and it let loose (I had already removed the other end from the diff). I put two new (rebuilt) axles in it while I was in it, I figured 100k+ miles why not.... Also new brake pads, and a new brake hose on the left side.
Also noted that there was no way the axle would slip out of the wheel hub unless I unhooked the upper ball joint - video shows it should, but there was no way it would slip out for me.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I sprayed them down with wd40 real good and was able to get a socket on them.....used a hammer to tap them loose