It's likely you need a new TIPM. It checks the circuit so many times before it locks the circuit out completely. Being that a lower wattage bulb causes a higher resistance(meaning it acts like you have a burnt out bulb) I'm surprised it would turn the low beam xircuit off, but it's what ever the Chrysler Engineers decided to program it as. It's a different situaion than low resistance which means open or frayed wire. Eitherway, the TIPM will turn off power to that circuit after so many checks.
If you have a SC tuner, you can read the DTC's. It will tell you what DTC has been set. Low/High restance, low/high current...etc

 

it seems like the TIPM's are all different for the various trucks out there.... Mine didn't throw a DTC for high resistance when I was only using relays for my HID's not relays and resistors.. Either way I put resistors in just in case.

Some people seem to get a DTC when using relays without a resistor... where I did not. Also some people are able to use those "cancellers/capacitors" and they work just fine.. I tried them once and my TIPM would shut the headlights down due to high current draw.. I didn't have much faith in them to begin with but some people on here have used them with good luck... I think that's why there is so much confusion with HID's and these trucks.. some people can do just relays.. and it works, some need resistors, others use the cancellor things and it works great... Hell I had a truck in my shop 05 ram with HID's in it. they worked great so I looked under the hood and they were hooked up straight plug and play.. no relays, no resistors, no cancellor... just plugged into OEM harness.. lol

such a silly set up..

O and dirty just wondering but with your projector retrofit do you only have low beams now or did you use a bi-xenon kit where the hi/lo HID are part of the same bulb within the projector? or just no high beams? I'm just wondering because I want to do a projector set up once I'm totally satisfied with my HID's... Kinda wanna do the recon set up where they have two projectors per housing.. and do some setup where the low beams stay on with the high beams (unlike our stock set up where low's turn off when high's come on) But I've only had my HID's for about two months and until they show they can last for the long run do I want to put 600 bux into the recon lights.

 

^^^^DTC doesn't mean your engine light goes off. You have to use a handheld tuner such as Diablosport or Superchips or a fancy unit like a Snap-on to check DTC's as they are Manufacturer specific. You will never know unless you hook up a device and scan for them.
Relays get their own ground. Tapping the headlight wire for switched power(250mA draw) only gives 250mV of ground power. Relays cannot sustain power on 250mA.

HID's in aftermarket projectors suck. They aren't made for it and you'll pay alot of money for it. Not worth it. The projectors they use are meant for Halogens not HID's. The bulb spacing and lenses are completely different. Those are little toys made in China for high dollar.

 

O I'm well aware of hidden DTC's and such that don't set off a MIL light.. I have access to a Snapon Scan tool and I verified what I stated about the DTC..

Now I'm not really sure what you're saying about the 250mv draw from a relay.. for a relay to energize and connect the common pin to the N/O pin requires 12volts across the two coil terminals and roughly 150-250 mA of current is drawn.

are you saying that the OEM headlight wiring only puts out 250mV when the headlight switch is turned on? in that case there would be no way for the OEM headlight wiring to energize a relay.

So for example on your own relay set up for the low beam HID's.. your relay has a total of 4 terminals being used.. one hooked up to the battery for constant 12v+.. the other hooked up to the 12v+ input on your HID ballast.. that leaves the two wires that trigger the relay coil. One must see ground the other must see 12v+. So one obviously gets hooked up to the OEM low beam headlight wire found at the factory headlight plug.. or I guess could be found at the tipm. and then the last terminal must be connected to ground.. in your set up did you connect that directly to chassis ground or to the common/ground wire at the OEM headlight harness. I have seen in a lot of the relay harnesses online and that many people do they run ground from the battery out to the ballasts? perhaps this is where our confusion is.. I never like the idea of running grounds that far from the battery out to the ballasts.. on mine I grounded directly to the frame of the vehicle mere inches away from my ballasts.. I was just looking at a prefab "relay" harness online and it was set up in this way where the 12v+ that runs through the relay to the ballasts is grabbed at the battery as well as ground for the HID ballasts... then the signal was grabbed at the headlight harness with a plug they had on the end.. that plug was grabbing the low beam headlight wire and common/ground... like I said I didn't set mine up that way so maybe we just aren't understanding each other?

 

^^^
30 goes to 12v+
87 goes to Ballasts
86 uses Headlight as a trigger
85 to CHASSIS ground
The 12v goes from pin 30 to pin 87. Pin 86 is what energizes the coils on the relay. A relay only uses ~250mA to energize the coils. I didn't mean 250mV, I apologize.

You don't have to stretch from battery to ground. I went directly to chassis ground at the relay but did the ballast ground to the relay ground as well. I did that for neatness. Stretching the ground as far as the power is not a problem. This isn't mega amps like car audio.

 

got it and replied..

yea I see what you're saying about the TIPM and using that common/ground wire in the headlight harness.. Never really thought of it that way. gonna change that around next chance I get.

 

Hi there..new to this site,the problem i'm having is that my 2008 dodge avengerR/T with HID are flickering but the funny thing is that it is only the drive side headlight.I installed 4700uf cap on itan still flickering now the question i'm asking should i put a cap on the passenger side also?I which bulbs an ballast too from side to side ,all wired up with relays???
Please some help to solve this problem......Thanks for now

 

swap the pass side ballast with the driver side and see if it follows. If it does then it is the ballast. if it doesnt then swap the pass side bulb with the drivers side.

 

Hi, I installed a beamer hid kit on my 2006 dodge ram sport for my headlights that run a h13 bulb and its a plug and play kit. It works fine on hi beams but on low beam it turns off and on by itself. Also when I run just day lights and turn left they turn off but stay on when I turn right. Did anyone have this problem as I can't seem to figure this out. Thanks

 

please read the first page.