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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 07:45 AM
  #901  
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Joe.G
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Id follow their steps and see if it helps, if not I would send it back. I don't believe I used the anti flicker harness when i installed mine, But it has been a while now and don;t quite remember.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 09:16 PM
  #902  
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Default HID's dont work when engine is running!

Originally Posted by dirtydog
*Note* This thread is reserved for HID issue's ONLY. If you don't have a problem or a solution, please don't post.

PLEASE READ!

Chrysler uses Canbus for the headlight system. HID conversion kits are well known for their flicker/strobe and Lampout light problems when used on Canbus equip'd vehicles. These problems vary from one manufacturer to the next.

There are ways to eliminate both of these cases.

They include:
1.) Relay harness (most sellers can provide these with their kits only if you ask). The relay harnesses will eliminate the strobing effect in most cases. I suggest everyone use a relay harness with resistors.

2.) Resistors (Quality 50w..6ohm can be purchased online for pretty cheap.HERE.). These turn off the Lamp out illumination bulb for guys using a relay harness, and store no codes of High Resistance in the computer(06+ guys) which may cause to the circuit to be disabled after a while(no lights at all). Resistors are used on EACH lowbeam wire and EACH Highbeam wire because the driverside and passengerside are on independent circuits(for safety reasons) You need a total of FOUR resistors to get the job done. Resistors get hooked to power feed on one end and get ground on the other.

3.) Capacitors aka Cancellors. These are premade plug-in units that eliminate the flicker/strobing for plug'n'play applications(No relay harness used). I advise against not using the set-up of Plug'n'Pay and cancellor kits due to the massive spike in electrical current on start-up(Inrush current). Capacitors charge up very fast and will draw more current than your switch and circuit is capable of supplying. This rush of charge is actually what tricks the pcm into thinking there is a good bulb drawing current on the other end. This problem will likely be prevelant overtime as it will begin to wear down the contacts of switches and any contact point.

*Fogs are not canbus on any Ram 2008-older.
*You still should use a relay harness with the fogs even though they don't flicker/strobe when installing a pure Plug'n'Play kit. HID technology draws signiciant amount of current upon start up to heat up the bulb. The Inrush current can be up over 15A on some of these kits and cause popped fuses or circuits to be electronically shut down by the tipm. Just because HID lights use Less power(35w) and draw less current at operating temperatures, doesn't mean they are safe for the electrical system which isn't designed for it. The High inrush spikes slowly wear down electrical contact points. This includes the headlight switch, the Instrument cluster, the fuse panl or 06-08+ TIPM($$) module. Put the HID's that shouldn't be directly plugged in along with the capacitors that draw lots of current and you could have one big mess on your hands creating electrical trouble. I'm just sayin.... They'll directly plug in and work like a charm, but for how long? I'd say it depends on the kit and how many times you turn the lights on/off?
Using a Relay harness avoids any hard strains on any of the factory components. Everything functions as it should and componenets will last much longer.


Make this list of items to get:
4-50w 6ohm Resistors (they're all over Ebay)
1-Relay harness (Make sure this comes with your kit)


All Dodge Ram 2002+ have canbus system for their Headlights, therefore, the headlight circuit will need to be corrected. All Dodge Rams 2002-2008 DO NOT have canbus for the foglights.


PLEASE ask all of your questions in here if they have not already been answered. PLEASE use QUOTATIONS for answering anyones questions.

Please read weedahoe's post to follow.
So I don't have any issues with flickering or strobing... I have after market projector style headlights on my 08 dodge ram 1500. They use the same stock electrical plugs as my factory ones. Except I use a H7 bulb because my low and hi beams are just changed with a shutter.. I bought an HID kit online, got the capacitors and everything. When the truck is off and I turn the lights on, everything works fine. As soon as I turn the truck ON, as is engine running, the HID's malfunction. They will turn off for a period of time, then turn back on, then turn off. Were talk seconds when this happens. NOT FLICKERING. Is this something to do with the trucks computer?? Did I buy the wrong kit? should I return it? Is there any remedy? I checked voltages during every stage and nothing abnormal comes up. Does it have something to do with the low amp draw so the trucks' computer thinks something is wrong?

Thanks for listening to my rant! lol

Jonathan
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:22 AM
  #903  
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Hello,

I started a thread regarding swapping to 80/100 lights using a conversion harness and relays. Looking through this thread I learned the TIPM module needs to see a resistance that should be the std headlight but since that is replace by a relay the TIPM doesn't like it and shuts things down.

So, to fool the TIPM we have to install a 50W resistor (is the 8ohm critical?) to fool the TIPM module into thinking the light bulb is there and working. Correct?

QUESTION:
In my case (using a relay in the loop), is a 50W resistor ok or do I need to measure the resistance/wattage of the relay coil and then get a resistor in a value that makes up the difference to 50w? I am concerned that adding a 50W resistor on top of the coil resistance of the relay I am using will overload the stock wiring or damage the TIPM unit. Does this make sense?

see link below for the thread I started,thanks

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...sion-help.html
 
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