Now the Q is how are you going to insulate those from shorting out? You will have to wrap the entire thing!!!

I would thing you would be better with resistors being you could use scotch loks if you wanted and be insulated

 

point taken! but i soldered those on there for a few test runs..if it worked i was going to worry about that later...so what you think weed? should i go with the resistors...does radio shack carry those

 

Radio shack does not carry 50 watt resistors. However, if the caps work for you then leave well enough alone and find something to insulate them with

 

Those are Polarized capacitors he has wired up. Hooking them up backwards will make them explode. Polarized Caps are no joke and CANNOT be hooked up backwards. Wear safety glasses

You don't want Capacitors! Those are huge as well. You'll be drawing boat loads of start-up current to get those things charged up. Please read my initial Post on why Caps are NOT GOOD. Get Resistors!!!

Take those out and click on the link in the very first Post of this thread.

 

Copy that...i will start over..the damn things didnt work for me anyway...Yeah i hooked them up right..obviously..i guess the lack of an explosion tells me that..but i have some resistors on the way..ill keep you posted

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vendor-...ecial-buys-43/

 

I still havn't had a chance to install mine from HIDextra.. I'm gonna see what happens with just relays.. Karen from HIDextra swears that the 08 trucks only need relays.. either way i'll mod the headlight switch if they flicker..

the headlight switch uses resistors to trigger parking lights and headlights... open up the switch take out those resistors and you get a standard ground pulse output.. for parking lights and headlights.. use that ground pulse to trigger a relay with the proper resistance for parking lights and headlights when it is in the respective positions.. and then use the ground output from the switch for headlights and trigger relays for HID's... no load resistors.. no capacitors.. Hopefully I don't have to do it that way but if HIDextra is wrong then I shall do so and post up the pics.

 

Wrong.

I have an '08 and had just a relay and yes, they do work with no Lamp out bulb, but there is still an Active code that is only seen when the DTC's are pulled up. This is Circuit resistance High code you'll throw for the pass side. This is because you'll have nothing touching the pass side wiring and no Load resistors simulating the bulb that is suppose to be drawing current.
You'll need resistors to rid the codes. If you allow the codes to continue to run, that circuit may get turned off until the TIPM is re-config'd by a dealer. Once it counts 255(I believe) times that the circuit has malfunctioned in a row, it disables all power to that circuit for safety purposes. Now, I don't think HIDExtra is going to reimburse you dealer fees for reconfiguring and resetting your TIPM.

I drove my truck for ~4kmi and 1yr with no caps and allowed the DTC to be active.

Becareful touching the headlamp switch as it's a multiplex circuit and ties into the Instrument cluster. The headlights are one of the white/lt. gr wires.

 

Dog,
I'm not gonna use a single relay for both ballasts I used two for my last setup which I yanked because I had a ballast go bad and I wanted to go with something nicer.

As I said in a previous post I know for a fact the truck wasn't throwing a code for high resistance with just the relays installed. I went through hell with a CEL awhile back and during that time I've had the truck hooked up to the starscan tool probably 20+ times and there never was a code for a high resistance for either side. My guess because I used a relay for each side.

I could believe that you would throw one for the pass side if you are using one of the "relay" kits that the HID companies sell. because that's rather obvious if nothing is plugged in. And for ****s and giggles I disconnected the relays from the headlights and cycled the switch a few times and yes a code would come up but as long as I had the relays on there was no code.

My question to you is that when you ran just a relay did you get any issue with flickering? Meaning did you add the resistors merely to get rid of the DTC you had for the passenger side or did you have another issue that made you go the route that you did

As far as modding the headlight switch.. nothing I'm in the least scared of. Multiplexed circuitry is nothing difficult. In fact the entire ignition system in these newer trucks and most chryslers is multiplexed. Start, accessory, and keysense are all controlled by a single wire with varying resistance for each function. I've done so many remote starts/security systems, and other custom electronics in my professional install time it's just another walk in the park. And if I can't figure it out my shop sup will seeing as he's one of 180ish MECP Master techs in the us.

the reason I fight the resistor idea so hard is that I hate the idea of using them. They get ridiculously hot and I have a feeling they aren't meant for the continuous use they see when being used in a headlight circuit. We shall see what happens with the new set from HIDextra.

 

Ben D - Ive had my same set of HIDs for over 2 years now. Although the resistors do get hot, if you mount them securely and in a good place then you have nothing to worry about.