Pinion Seal Leak
So a few weeks ago while we were doing my cam and had it up on a lift we noticed that it had a pinion seal leak (where the drive shaft meets the rear diff). My garage floor looks like there has been a slow drip that has been doing it for a while now.
Now I already know that it needs fixed asap, but my question is, is that diff fluid that is leaking out? I went out there tonight and although you could see it dripping (again a very slow drip, but formed a small shiney puddle under the diff) the diff fluid is up to where it should be right at/just below the plug. So now I am curious as to what is leaking out since I know it has been doing it for at least the last month (thats when we noticed it) if not longer and if has been leaking for that long I would have expected the diff fluid to be a lot lower than where it is at.
Now I already know that it needs fixed asap, but my question is, is that diff fluid that is leaking out? I went out there tonight and although you could see it dripping (again a very slow drip, but formed a small shiney puddle under the diff) the diff fluid is up to where it should be right at/just below the plug. So now I am curious as to what is leaking out since I know it has been doing it for at least the last month (thats when we noticed it) if not longer and if has been leaking for that long I would have expected the diff fluid to be a lot lower than where it is at.
replace pinion seal.. only fluid back there besides fuel and brake fluid.. very easy to distinguish is the front of the diff damp? and the fluid is running down then bottom of the diff and dripping near the pan.
It is running from where the driveshaft enters the rear diff, down the back of the diff to the bottom of the pan and drips from there. Nothing is on the front of the diff
Yeah, it is diff fluid.
Unless the rear trans seal is leaking too and traveling all the way down the driveshaft....LOL....j/k
Dirty posted a nice DIY on replacing the pinion seal some time back.
Unless the rear trans seal is leaking too and traveling all the way down the driveshaft....LOL....j/k
Dirty posted a nice DIY on replacing the pinion seal some time back.
I guess I just figured that sine it was dripping so much and for so long that I assumed that the diff would have been drained quite a bit but instead it was hardly noticeable if that in the diff
Slow drip will go for a loooong time before you get too low.The fluid level is right up to the seal.
Basically just mark the position of the nut, either scratch it or put marker on it in relationship to the differential housing and count the number of turns to take it off. Take your time. You may even want to put a mark on your socket if it's covering the nut. Be sure to pay attention to the mark on the nut and notice where it is when the nut comes off the end of the spline. That is where you begin to count when you thread it back on. Easiest way is to keep presure outwards as you get close to coming off. This will give you an exact location of the mark and won't allow the nut to just fall on the ground but rather force you to have control of it.
When you put the nut back on, thread it on the same number of turns right to the original mark and then tighten the nut not even 1/8th of a turn.(this would mean going from 12'0'clock to just about 1'0'clock) If it turns really hard, just go slightly past the original mark, no need to go crazy on it.
Basically just mark the position of the nut, either scratch it or put marker on it in relationship to the differential housing and count the number of turns to take it off. Take your time. You may even want to put a mark on your socket if it's covering the nut. Be sure to pay attention to the mark on the nut and notice where it is when the nut comes off the end of the spline. That is where you begin to count when you thread it back on. Easiest way is to keep presure outwards as you get close to coming off. This will give you an exact location of the mark and won't allow the nut to just fall on the ground but rather force you to have control of it.
When you put the nut back on, thread it on the same number of turns right to the original mark and then tighten the nut not even 1/8th of a turn.(this would mean going from 12'0'clock to just about 1'0'clock) If it turns really hard, just go slightly past the original mark, no need to go crazy on it.
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my shop wants $130, but i rather spend a few dollars to replace it myself. trying to find where and how to get the double lip seal that has been mentioned in a few threads.
I tried doing a search and got lots of threads, but nowhere it said where to get the seal.
no horse is too dead to be beaten.
I tried doing a search and got lots of threads, but nowhere it said where to get the seal.
no horse is too dead to be beaten.








