Truck info in my sig.


So my truck makes this brutal howling noise in the morning, when the truck is cold, when its moving, More so backwards than forwards. My mechanic said it sounds like the rear brakes are dragging so he cleaned up the calipers, (one was brand new) and tried it again and it still does it. So he took off the calipers from the mounts and tried it again and it doesnt do it. He put them back on and its doing it again. He gives up. He has no idea why its doing it and neither do I.

The noise sounds like an air horn and I can feel it vibrating thru the trucks floor boards when its doing it. ITs so weird.

What is going on???

I HATE THIS TRUCK!!!

 

Ok. So when the calpers are off theres no squealing. I had a similar problem on my celica.

Do you let the truck sit in the driveway for long periods of time without driving it?

Tell me what condition are the brake pads in? How do the inside and outside pads appear on the driver side and pass side.

Im suspecting that you might have an issue with corrosion on your slide pins, or your pistons are sticking or seized.

Also check the brake fluid levels.

Another possibility is those rotors you have are warped. What brand and where did u get them from?

Dont hate the truck man, it just needs some tlc. Like any other vehicle toyota, ford, honda, chev things break.

 

My pads and rotors are brand spanking new. They are drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. MY mechanic inspected and regreased all sliders, he said everything is working as it should. And everything looked fine to me when I installed the pads and rotors.

I just got back from picking the truck up at the shop and he said he made some calls and now thinks the noise is coming from the ceramic pads. Does anyone concur????

 

My guess it's the pads. If it were mine I'd sand the rotors and pads and break them in again. No pun intended. Possibly before pulling them apart I would do a couple high speed stops to see if they will seat on their own. Ceramic aren't for everyone. If you really hate your truck sell the bitch and move on....

 

I cant sell it til this problem is resolved. Trust me, Im def. considering it.

 

i get that noise in reverse, my dealer told me it was the parking brake dragging while its self adjusting, so i just deal with it lol
its like nails on a chalk board

 

BEFORE starting the break-in procedure, drive with gentle braking. Do not use brake aggressively untill performing the break-in procedure.

3. Make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops continuously in one cycle. NOTE: A moderate braking effort is needed to properly break-in the rotors and pads. A stopping force of approximately 0.8G's, just short of ABS intervention, is the level of pedal effort you are trying to attain.

4. During the 60 to 5-10MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer. Keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed and the end of each cycle.

NOTE: DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! THIS WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION DURING FUTURE USE.

5. Watch for the following:

On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident during earlier stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience "green fade". This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor vanes with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

6. After the final stop, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using them again.

7. After the first break-in cycle, the brakes will still not be operating at optimum capacity. A second heat cycle is necessary before the brakes are really ready to work optimally. After that, they can be expected to improve further with continued hard use.

8. If you experience brake pedal pulsation, steering vibration, or repeatable brake noise, perform the break-in procedure again as soon as possible. This will re-condition the rotor surface and remove irregular brake pad deposists.

 

I followed the break in procedure when I did the install. Maybe it wasnt good enough.

 

Did you put the anti-squeek spray/gel on the back of the pads? Theres 2 different types. Also with the ceramics all the hardware needs to be greased as well.

 

It didnt come with any.

I wish you guys could hear this so it anbe confirmed that this is the problem. This is no little brake squeek or squeel. People can hear this from inside my house. Its not an eeeeek. its a AAAAAAAARRRRRRKKKK!