Are you suggesting my truck is too advanced for his own good? I always knew he was brilliant!

 

That's pretty funny!! If the truck attempts to start, it suggests to me that it is fuel related, not electrical. That being said, some electrical parts affect fuel. I'm not too familiar with these engines, but an idle air control valve that doesn't work properly would cause this. Some vehicles use an idle air temperature sensor to send a reading to the computer also, which in turn rotates the throttle plates until you get the appropriate TPS reading.

Nutshell = Somewhere in between IAC/IAT telling the PCM to rotate the throttle plates and the verification the PCM receives from the TPS

I would also recommend getting decent electronic replacement parts. O'Reilly stocks Borg Warner, which in my opinion are much better than an Auto Zone quality part. Not plugging anyone, just personal experience. Some of the sensors are cheap enough that it doesn't hurt to replace them anyway, as long as they are as good or better than the original.

Good Luck!!

 

IAT temp sensor could be faulty in the open loop mode or too high of resistance.
You should be able to use a multimeter and measure the resistance across the terminals of the sensor. You don't even have to remove it just unplug the pigtail.
You should be upwards of 60k-ohms when cold and 3k when hot.

You touching the gas pedal doesn't give it more fuel per say, but it provides the needed cfm flow through the throttle body because "cold engine's" start rich which is the issue. With little oxygen and lots of fuel for a hot vehicle, you will get a flooded no-start condition until you provide more airflow.

 

i agree with dirty, i dont think it's fuel related, I believe it's a lack of oxygen. My only worry is that, if the IAT is faulty, how do I go about replacing it? I haven't looked at the way it's setup quite yet but i'm under the impression it's built right into the throttle body =/

 

fwiw- I got a really dang good deal on some new injectors.. they are a full pound more flow than the stock.. I altered my tune, to address it, but only mathematically, and not by using a wide band a/f on it.. I know I'm running rich still, but I don't know how rich yet until I install the gauge (that's been in my tool box for a month).. reason I say this: I have issues with starting just like your issues..

since you haven't replaced injectors- the next place I'd look is o2 sensors- which doesn't really make sense because they don't start altering your fuel flow until you go to closed loop.. but they could be- long shot..

more likely, you got a sticky injector that isn't closing the gates as it should... you could grab a stethoscope and listen to them while idling, and see if one is out of rhythm from the others..

I know my issues have to do with running rich- and it sounds like yours may too- but not for the same reasons.. do you have any way to look at your a/f on start-up?

 

i've got a superchips 3865, havent used the diagnostics in a while but i *think* it does give you an a/f reading..

 

iat sensor is probably the easiest to change...it's located in the hemi hat on 3rd Gen's. Just unplug, twist and pull it out..

 

Orly? Nice. I'll have to look into it hopefully i get a warm day this week.

 

the whole process from poppin the hood, unlock connector, press tab, pull to release, twist sensor counterclockwise, pull out, insert new sensor, twist to lock into place, re-attach connector, slide locking tab, close hood... about a minute..

 

..and the sensor should be under $10 from the dealer (yea, that shocked me..lol)