Have you tried the MAP sensor? I have the same problem with my 2005 and it is driving me crazy. I read in the manual that the MAP sensor controls idle speed and injector pulse width, but I do not know how to test it to see if it is bad. The sensor is about 25.00 so I am thinking about buying it and trying it.

 

I may have missed it in here, but have you removed the TB and cleaned it? Could be sticking closed on hot start-ups.

 

lol you did miss it lx. I cleaned it several times and even bought a brand spankin' new ported TB from fastman. Can't get any cleaner

drof that's an interesting prospect. I dumped a lot of money into the problem already unsuccessfully so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes and i can learn from yours Keep me updated!

 

Well I tried the MAP sensor and that did not work. I am thinking about maybe changing the camshaft position sensor, but I do not think that will do anything. Have you had any luck Pop?

 

I'm fairly certain it's the injector solenoids going bad and spraying constant fuel, dropping the pressure down. I bought a set of new ultrapower injectors from rock auto. Ill let you know how they work out. Next week the truck should be getting new inner tie rods, a new wheel bearing, fresh lower ball joints, new bilstein shocks, AT3030 muffler, TTI longtube headers and Y, along with those new injectors. Should run run pretty nice

 

When you put the new fastman on, did you check the amount the (%) it opened again. Originally, you mentioned that it normally opened 6%, and when you have problems, it only opened 3-4%??

I'm also wondering about the pedal sensor for the gas pedal, if you're getting a erratic sensor resistance for feedback to the ecm.

You might consider changing just the injectors, since you already have them before you make any more technical engine stuff headers and such, to see if you can narrow it down--although I understand the temptation

Hope you get it worked out

 

Yes, I did check the throttle %'s and they were spot on. TB seems to work perfectly. I'm fairly confident it's an injector problem, if it's not i've actually heard it could be related to O2 sensors.

Realistically with everything i've tried so far (all the new parts it has) I don't think the headers will complex it much more as the problem is so consistent. How's that manual tranny paired up to the hemi btw? I wanted that combo so bad when buying my truck but couldn't afford the extra $$ for the 2500.

 

I Like the combination and the tranny is a rockcrusher, but I did find a weak link in the whole setup recently.
I noticed a little "not normalness, is there such a word" in the pedal, not slipping, but it felt sort of mushy, then a minor rattle--still no slippage.

Well, I decided at 149K on the original clutch, I'd go ahead and replace it, and upgrade at the same time.

well, I shopped aroound the area for someone to do it, I can, but the truck doesn;t fit in the garage, and the driveway isn't the place to explore a tranny repair, rain/snow etc.

So, I ended up at the dealer, I know, way over priced, well not this time, but I'll get to that

When they got the mess separated, they let me know, the disc and flywheel looked great------the pilot bearing was totally F***ked up, and laying in peices on the bottom of the bell housing, and had in fact started the maounting bushing for the pilot in the back of the cranckshaft, to spin, fortunately, no damage.

Well, I shopped around and found a replaement input shaft from an outfit in MN, but they had to order it, with an uncertain delivery date, well, they priced out an input at --------------$900.00 OUCH!!!! dollars.

Well they knocked off $200. I upgraded to a kevlar disc with a higher clamping force pressure plate from South Bend Clutch, plus they turned the flywheel.

I had all new inner and outer seals on the tranny replaced, as well as a new throwout bearing and hydraulic slave replaced

End of the adventure-----$2400 out the door.

The input shaft on a cimmins is 1-3/8", the hemi setup is 1-1/8" they aren't interchangeable.

Now the upside, First, at 100K on the new clutch, pull the tranny and install a new pilot, also, I found an outfit that handles HD input shaft bearings with side seals, next time, a new crank bushing, and bore it out to accept the HD bearing, originally built for the cummins

As far as the O2's go, if you're installing new headers, you should spring for new o2's anyway, so you get a good relearn of the ecm, but as far as them affecting the start up problem, I believe the engine is operating in open loop until it is warmed up, and off idle.

Something to try, locate the fuse to the fuel pump. Drive the truck around until it's fully warmed up, jump out, pull the fuse. Go in the house, make a sandwich, drink a beer, go out, try to start without installing the fuse, and without touching the gas pedal. see if it attemps to fire immediately, hopefully, yes, even though it will die immediately too. Most likely, injectors.

Normally, if combustion sensors start giving you problems, you'll start throwing codes related to the sensor.

Just some thoughts!!

 

definitely jealous of the stick/hemi combo regardless haha. Another note is that very very rarely (once every several month maybe) get a p304 missfire code on startup (when it's giving me problems). It's got all new plugs (ngk v powers) and a brand new coil pack there. This leads me to believe that the missfire that sometimes pops up is most likely fuel related (the injector) on that cylinder. I'll definitely post at the end of the week how the new injectors affect the starting as I'm sure this info will help out the several other people having the same issue.

 

You might also consider taking the plugs back to the original champions----just to eliminate a possibility--save your old ones in case those aren't the problem, I have heard of a number of people stating if they use something other than champions they've had problems, and the stock plugs are cheap compared to most of the others

Something to think about, I guess I'd get fuel and ignition stuff back to as near stock as you can

You didn't mention how many miles you have on your truck, You did mention above, that you have a new coil pack, if you pulled the wires, did you get them layed EXACTLY back in place as stock---it really does matter on these, I'm curious if you might have some bad wires

Just some wandering thoughts

I guess I'm still leaning towards the injectors, especially when you stated that as soon as you shut it down, the fuel pressure bleeds off