I just bought a 2006 2500 Diesel. When you take the key out of the ignition, after turning the truck off, the door dings when opened and the radio stays on, when its hot. When it cools off, the air temperature, it quits. The previous owner had a new switch installed. It acts as thought there are two accessory positions, the position when turned toward the driver from the off position. I appreciate the help!

 

Lol, my '05 Ram 5.7 started doing this very thing last week when cold (55°F). I can actually make it stop by smacking the lower dash panel below the steering column. No, not kidding. I have it on video.

No codes, messing with the key has no effect, and it does drain the battery.

 

 

My 2007 does the exact same thing, except it only does it when it's hot outside. Cold? No problem. When it's hot, sometimes I have to turn the key off and on several times for the radio to go off. It's rather annoying. And since I live in Texas, it's hot most of the time. I thought about replacing the ignition switch, but it sounds like that might not solve the problem. I've lived with it for several years now, I guess I can keep going.

 

I have a 2007 Chrysler Aspen and it too is doing the same thing when HOT outside, USED to only do it around 100 deg outside, now doing it at 80-90 Deg outside, DID YOU FIND A FIX??

 

FWIW, regarding post #2, I changed the ignition switch. Zero issues since.

 

OBie's getting a new Vehicle! NOT!


PROBLEM: My 2007 Chrysler Aspen would NOT turn off, (Engine did Stop) but even after the key was removed, (only when it's HOT outside 100 deg plus), DASHBOARD would still be ON, sometimes.

When I opened any door (Key out) it would say DOOR OPEN and
some of the Dashboard was still indicating they had power on???
[ONLY WHEN HOT IN CAR, 100+ DEG,(sometimes)]

If I did nothing, I would wake up with a DEAD Battery.

So last year I installed a Quick Disconnect on the Battery. (Battery Saver)


Now it's starting to act up as low as 85 Deg, (sometimes) this is not doable anymore!

It's so hard to troubleshoot when it acts up (sometimes) and usually only when it's too HOT to work on, 100 Deg Plus out.

I have no clue on were to start troubleshooting it.

So, I started to empty everything out of my car to get it ready to go to the Dealership because I don't trust them as far as I can pit and then bend over and get screwed.

Then I STOPPED, I AM NOT GOING TO LET THIS BEAT ME, and
started putting things back in my car.

So I pulled Fault codes and got: (Simplified version)
1. Rev Lamp Control High
2. Passenger Mirror Heater OPEN.
3. Adj Pedal sensor Low, ( Drv Seat PADDLE to Adj Ft.Bk movement)
4. Battery Low, (From the Past.)
5. Amplifier Internal ?
Ok, now I'm really confused on where to even start looking and look for what?

So, two days of vigorous searching on the Internet

Finally, a 2007 Dodge RAM TRUCK owner in Texas had the same problem, Wo Ho!

He replaced the IGNITION SWITCH and it fixed his problem.

I sure would have not thought that from the CODES or the HEAT!

So, what the hell, $50 bucks, 10 minutes to remove and 10 minutes to install!


[Until I did my research, I thought Ignition Switch / Programming Keys / Tumbler / Steering wheel Lock was going to be OVER MY HEAD! Turned out to be quite simple.]

Wa-La, it worked.
I have never thought of that?
It only took me 5 years to figure it out,
but now it's FIXED! And $0 dollars to the Dealership!
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By the way, NO new keys or programming required.

Key tumbler is a separate mechanical device and Key code reader is also a separate device. It was as simple as removing & replacing the Ignition switch.
Most Youtube Videos make it look harder than it really is.

Biggest take away is GET A #20 TORX SCREWDRIVER, not hex adaptors and such, you NEED a thin, 4" TORX screwdriveror
don't even start.

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So, I took the OLD switch apart, SHOCKER!

It's nothing more than a bunch of Variable Resistors, (Rheostats/Potentiometers)

If it costed, HUNDREDS, it might be worth just cleaning and trying it again.

But, just $50 bucks for a RELIABLE FIX, it's worth replacing.





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Thanks for advice, Ignition Switch was the problem. 5 years of Pain and troubleshooting fixed in 10 Minutes.
Check out my post.