lol.....yeah. almost there.

psi looks good. also confirms its going to be electrical and not mechanical. check the service manual for proper routing of those wires

 

ok i found this diagram, heh im pretty sure i got a few wrong.

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/as...5_SHOT0347.jpg

I did find a vacuum leak I think too. There are two thick vacuum lines that run along side the drivers head and over to something near the main fuse box. One of those is unplugged from wherever it is supposed to be plugged into in the back.

 

$%^&*( %^&*( %^&*(!

I checked compression again with a different gauge and there is zero compression in that cylinder.

I think its the exhaust valve, here is why. * I should have just replaced the exhaust valve with the intake valve

1.) No compression in that cylinder
2.) When I crank it over with the ignition system disabled (pulled relays) I see light smoke coming from the TB and the oil fill area (the tube that comes off the oil fill cap assembly to be precise

This seems to me the exhaust valve is not seating? Is this an example of a burnt valve? The ^&*(@! machine shop guy should have seen this.

 

If you take the intake off you can look down the ports and see the valves. From there you can determine for sure which it is. Then you need to determine if it is a stuck valve or incorrect valve train geometry due to spring height or long push rod

 

Will do that tonight, the saga continues Thanks

 

I am without a second person to turn the crank while I watch, so I am just pulling it all apart a second time. I admit it is going much faster. I already compared the length of the pushrods, all look the same for each type.

I will get out and take the last 10 bolts out and pull the head once it stops raining (yep I live in Florida where it can rain on one side of the house and not the other)

I think I am going to take it to another machine shop and have them do a full valve job. With the head off I should see if a valve is not seating?

 

You can turn the crank by hand with a long breaker bar and you standing on the sway bar in the engine bay. When you pull the head off and IF the valve fully seats then the head is fine as far as any binding goes. Again, at that point you are looking at valve train geometry issues

 

Haha this has to be the longest thread on an issue I have seen. I will be in Atlanta next month, can drop by a 12 pack

I thought the exhaust valve looked darker than the others, all it would take is a little build up / warpage to cause a 0 PSI compression test right?

 

I just hope that it is an exhaust valve goosed??
If the rings on that piston are stuck due to the valve hitting the piston pinching the top ring land as I stated in an earlier post to you, the rings won't seal and you will get a poor compression result.
Al.

 

At work so I haven't gotten the head off again yet, but I called the machine shop. He said they actually cut the seats and vacuum tested it and offered to look at it if I brought it in. If that's the case, only possibilities are?:

1.) What abarmby said (rings)
2.) exhaust valve is tweaked and he didn't catch it. It sure looked ugly to me)
3.) geometry issue (i don't fully understand this aside from a push rod that's too long)
4.) Head gasket malfunction (maybe?)
5.) Oh yes, he lied (I doubt it considering the rep the shop has)

How would I test item 1? Put oil in to see if the compression comes up? Not really looking froward to pulling a piston out to test.

Edit: In thinking... The truck ran when i put it together and did not smoke a bit. If the rings were indeed bad enough to cause 0 PSI I would think it would be puking oil out the exhaust? Plus the plug that came out looked fine. Need thoughts, mine are about exhausted.

Read this: "pull out your oil dipstick tube while the truck is running if there is compression coming from it your rings are shot." I am pretty sure there was not.