Ok everything is together aside from the exhaust manifold. The dodge dealership gave me bolts that were too short. That and the spark plug wires. What do the numbers on the wires mean? 5/7, 1/3, etc.

 

Got the exhaust on and plug wires. Topped off coolant, and charged battery. Started briefly and it can now hold an idle although check engine and misfire lights are on. I will have to pull codes in the morning.

The good part is it RUNS!!! 99% there, thanks to all a billion times.

Edit: Were can I see a diagram of the spark plug wires? It seems to me you cant mess them up really because of the coil pack design?

 

Ok it starts, idles terrible, I mean really terrible (worse than before I replaced the bad valve/spring). The lightning bolt stays illuminated, I assume this means misfire like on a GM?

The codes are:

P0118
Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
* Maybe that sensor went bad in having everything taken apart, I can replace this easily enough.

P0003
Fuel Volume Regulator Ctrl Circ Low
* I had this code prior to fixing the valve.

P3F01
?

P1A31
?

Where do I begin with this? Compression is great on all 8 cylinders.

 

Did you check and make sure each and every push rod moved up and down when you manually and physically rotated the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank bolt?

If that is OK Then pull the intake off completely and rotate the engine by hand and make sure each valve opens and closes completely.

I had the same thing happen to me once because one push rod was slightly too long and kept one of the valves from closing completely

 

Thank you, WHAT ARE those other two code though? I searched high and low and the closest I could find match all the numbers except one number is a letter.

Example

P3F01 might map to:

P3401 Cylinder 1 Deactivation/Intake Valve Ctrl Circ/Open?

P1A31 might map to:

P1031 ECU Sees Closed Throttle?

 

Also wouldn't this be the same as a compression test? Maybe I am missing something.

 

Yes, you are correct. A compression test would also show an air leak. What device or tuner are you using to get those codes?

 

A hand held odb-ii scanner. Works ok for my Camaro. Just a cheapo from ebay (about 2-3 years old). I have a usb obd-ii scanner I could try to get hooked up and see what it say. What are you thinking?

Should I go back and do a compression test again? All cylinders except 7 had good compression before I replaced the valve.

 

I was thinking you were using a generic code scanner because those codes should not have letters in them But just numbers.

Do a compression check on all and report back the numbers

 

All are real close to 150, lowest was 141.

I am guessing the spark plug wires could do this? How on earth do I figure out where they go? I thought that one coil pack controls just one cylinder, apparently not.

So close but yet so far.