After many posts on another thread and many thanks to all of those who gave advice (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...-please-3.html) I had to take a break from the problem for a few weeks.

When I came back to it (had the time to dig into it again), I was shock that I found a cylinder with a whopping 0 compression. Sounds like a bad exhaust valve spring. Its this cylinder:

X X
X 0
X X
X X
[front]

Now, I got all the coil packs off and then found out I have no deep well 8 mm sockets anywhere so I am at a standstill for tonight. I have 4 OEM exhaust springs ready to install on that side. I read a few other threads and here are my questions:

1.) Should I remove the brake booster? It looks like it will make life a lot easier to have this out of the way since it is pretty much sitting directly over the cylinder I need to work over. If so, any pictures or step by steps around?

2.) Should I go ahead and buy a new valve cover gasket (are they prone to ripping)?

3.) I bought the tool from harbor freight that lets you change springs without removing the head. I read a thread somewhere (and now I cannot find it) that basically said you need to get the afflicted cylinder up to TDC and push cotton rope in through the speak plug hole to keep the valve from dropping when the spring is removed. Anyone done this?

Last:4.) What are the torque specs for the rocker arms / valve cover bolts / coil packs

Now that I typed it that seems like a lot to ask, thanks to everyone that helped get me to this point and thanks in advance to whomever answers. I will be so relieved to hear the truck run well again.

 

1. You can work under the booster, not as tight as it looks. I would remove the fan and shroud so that you can stand between the waterpump and radiator ( I am 255 lbs and I could fit!)
2. The gaskets are rubber and re-use fairly well.
3.If your new springs have the bucket around the spring at the bottom, the tool from Harbor Freight will most likely NOT work. ( can't hold the lower coils because the bucket blocks this.) The rope method does work, get the piston just a little below TDC, feed in the rope, then GENTLY turn the crank to bring the piston/rope up against the valves. ( I use air pressure to hold mine, but, I have used the rope before)
4. Rocker shafts have to be tightened in a inward-out pattern in increasing increments to about 15ft/lbs. ( I don't have the manual here to check at the moment) The valve covers also tighten from the inside out pattern. The bolts have stopping shoulders on them, so just get them tight without going crazy with it. Same for the coil bolts.

 

THANK YOU

Yes the springs I got have the metal deflectors. Can I modify the harbor freight tool to work? It looked like someone in a post had added a water hose clamp to it to make it work.

All I need is the rocker torque specs and I am all set.

If this is easy enough with the harbor freight tool I will replace them all.

 

I saw that post with the hose clamp. I believe that person did not have good luck with that set up and contacted Weedahoe here about getting the correct tool for the job. The recommended upgrade for the valve springs is to replace all the springs (intake and exhaust) with 6.1 liter Hemi EXHAUST springs. I doubt you will find a Dodge parts department that will tell you that, but, it does work. Heavier duty springs and inexpensive at that.

 

OzzyDodge.

Do yourself a BIG favour.

Get the 6.1 intake and exhaust valve springs from a guy called Art at Hensons motor sports http://www.hensonmotorsports.com/merchandise/index.php
Buy those along with 6.1 pushrods (not the manleys) and you will remove a well known serious problem with the 03 valve springs. They are very prone to breaking and a dropped valve isn't what you want in one of these engines. So........ while your in there that deep.....do a propper job of it and do all the springs.
As for that tool you mentioned from Harbour Freight and the hose clamp. I helped the guy who was posting that, and that tool was completely useless.
He contacted Weedahoe for one of his "head on the block" valve tools. It made a night and day difference!
So, another MUST GET for this job, is one of the valve tools that Weedahoe sells on here. PM him and he will help. Also, get an air line from NAPPA to pressurise the cylinders to stop the valves from dropping when the springs removed. The rope tricks good but this is easier.
When I got mine while on holiday in Florida, is was $11 and on the shelf.
Alsoi, if your plugs need replacing, nows an excellent time to do it.
Without the parts and tools mentioned above, I would not even attempt to do this job with the heads still on!
Just my 2c bro.
Good luck.
Al.

 

Thank you both. Any idea what the mopar part number is for the springs? I need a total of 16 per side?

 

No but.....just contact Art at Hensons.
He has really good prices on both the 6.1 springs and pushrods.
I can say this as I'm from the UK and have no affiliation to Hensons except for the excellent customer service and knowledge that I received.
He overnighted to Florida for me when I was on vacation without any problems. Ordered early one day.....here the next.
Al.

 

OK all good info but I want to specify a little

HERE are the 6.1 push rods

HERE are the (16) 6.1 exh springs

Definitely call Art @ Hensons @ 800.530.5337 and tell him you are on the Dodge boards and heard it from here and ask about a 10% discount. Maybe they still give it.

The brake booster cant be disconnected and pull out for more room. Just disconnect the master cylinder from it and pull the M/S forward to get the brake booster out. Do not crack loose the brake lines or you will have to bleed all the brakes.

HERE is the thread on the custom valve spring tools. I can have one shipped out as early as tomorrow

Here are some torque specs

valve covers - 70 in lbs
rocker arms - 195 in lbs

But the compression tester at Harbor Freight since you have one locally and they are $12. Take out the valve at the end so air can go back and forth. Use the adapter with the kit to screw the hose into the cylinder and use compressed air to hold the valves up.

 

I'm sure Henson's is good, especially if both Al and 'Weed are recommending, but when I bought my cam from KRC, I bought the 6.1 springs right at the dealer four miles up the road for $4.10 each, which is only a dime higher than Henson's price. I can't remember exactly how much the pushrods were, but I don't think they were much higher than that price either. Also remember, if you do springs, you should do new retainers...

 

Hmmmm....that's interesting about replacing the retainers Hammer.
I've never read on any boards with ref to changing out the springs, to do what you suggest with the retainers?
Is there a particular reason why.
Your wisdom my friend, is always welcome.
Al.