I am supplying all parts, new 6.1 springs, keeper, retainer. I have the option to supply the guide, or let them.

My guess is the valve dropped a little and was smacked (bent) back up where it did not fall back down (luckily).

 

You dont need to replace the keepers or retainers, just the springs. However, if you do, LMK and I may buy some of the used parts from you.

Your assumption is correct and yes, you are very lucky. You could have been replacing the engine instead

 

Thanks. I meant replace the retainer that got rubbed by the rocker arm. I did buy new keepers for the valve that came apart.

I got to the machine shop and he said he wouldn't bother replacing the guide since it just has a small nick out of it on the cylinder side. 50.00 to R&R seals and springs, clean it and remove the exhaust manifold. Any bolt that breaks is 10 a piece to tap out/helicoil. I thought that sounded pretty fair.

Debating pulling the other head and having the seals/springs done by him vs just replacing the springs while it is on the truck. Looks like 120 or so for new springs, bolts, gaskets and seals per side.

Do i need to sand the piston top at all? There are no sharp edges just a scar where it and the valve battled it out.

 

Thats not a bad price. I wouldnt mess with the piston top. A scar wont hurt anything as there should be no contact anyway.

 

Thanks, hopefully this thread will help others out eventually.I did not have to remove the A/C compressor, but i did have to use the adjustable pry bar to move the head sideways a good half an inch before being able to lift it up at all. It BARELY came out with the exhaust manifold on, but it is out

I can't seem to find a part number for the fuel line I broke the end on. I found aftermarket fuel lines though...

 

To the OP........is the gouge/dent on the top of the piston, near to the edge of it??

The reason I ask is, the distance between the top ring and the piston on these Hemi's is quite small.
If the piston smacked the valve real hard and it was on the edge of the piston, I have seen problems arise where the ring doesn't rotate around the piston freely. The top ring and at times the others, gets "pinched".
This can cause all kinds of problems and if the force of the piston smacking the valve is sufficient, the oil scavanging rings also nip up and you get oil blow by from that cylinder.
I have just had some unfortunate practical experience of this, in my sons car.
Although not a Hemi, the principles are the same and he was burning and using a LOT of oil I can tell you.
He did have all the valves bend due to a cam belt snapping, so all the pistons were "nipped" as I described above. Which contributed greatly to his oil burning.
Unfortunately I don't believe there is an easy way of finding out if this has ocurred on your engine before you put the heads back on, other than to pull the piston.
So I guess it's a "suck eggs and see" trial and error sort of thing, if you don't want to pull the piston now.
Sorry to put doubt into your mind, but this can and does happen.
Question is, do you risk everything being OK and proceed to put your heads back on and try it. Or, do you pull the piston particularly if the gouge is towards the edge of it, and see if the rings are ok???
Al.

 

Thanks for sharing. The indention is 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch from the side of the piston. Unlike my Audi where the valves went THROUGH the pistons. I think i will chance it versus pulling the piston. It wasn't smoking when it ran, it just ran like it only had 7 cylinders.

 

Oh and the head is done, with any luck the truck will be back together this weekend.

 

Good work.
Post up how she goes please.
Good luck!
Al.

 

Does anyone have the torque specs/sequence for the exhaust manifold and intake manifold? If not I will run into town in a bit and find a manual. Thanks