hey everyone, here in september i will be driving out to Joplin Mo with my church for relief efforts and i will be driving my 2006 ram 1500 hemi. i want to change all the fluids in it before i go. should i stick with all mopar fluids from power steering to tranny to rear end and transfer case and so on. or should i use lucas or royal purple or amzoil instead

has dodge fixed the issues with the tranny's yet? thats one reason y i ask about using mopar trany fluids. i heard a wlong time ago the fluid in the tranny will crystalize unless u use mopar tranny fluid. don't know how much truths in it just something i heard and wanted to check with people that would probably know more then me. thanks everyone for the info.

 

You can use any fluid that is Chrysler approved. Use ATF+4 in the trans and power steering. I'm using whatever the dealer uses because I have a lifetime powertrain warranty and letting them do it removes all doubt if something was to fail. i use Royal Purple fluid in my Mustang rearend along with the Ford LS additive. if you have a LS (anti-spin) rear, then you will need the Mopar additive to keep the clutches from chattering in corners.
It's all personal preference as to what brand you want to use, just make sure it is the correct grade of fluid such as ATF+4, 75w90 for the differentials. The owners manual will tell you the correct viscosity of fluids to use. 5w20 in the engine for sure on 06-up with MDS.

 

thanks lxman, i am running mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20 in the motor right now. i know i have a posi rear so i will check out everything or just go into the dealer if i just get factory fluids. just wanted to check out what else is out there for my truck that people use and what works well and what doesn't.

 

Ive got RP in my engine, trans and diff case

 

I thought with the Royal Purple gear oil it had the limited slip additive already in it at least that's what the bottle says???????

 

Thats true. RP already has it

 

2 points...

1 - A Ram 1500 takes 75W-90 in the front diff but 75W-140 in the rear diff. The HD's use 75W-90 in the rear.

2 - Not to be argumentative or start anything but you do not have to use a Chrysler approved/licensed fluids. Not even if you still have warranty to deal with. All you need is a fluid that meets and/or exceeds the Chrysler spec.

Example using ATF+4. A universal fluid like RP's MaxATF or Amsoil's universal ATF would not qualify for warranty use, even though both work just fine in ATF+4 applications, as they are not a specific ATF+4 formula. However, if a fluid is marketed solely as an ATF+4 specific fluid it qualifies even if not approved/licensed by Chrysler as long as it meets or exceeds the spec. Chrysler can not legally void your warranty for using a non approved/licensed ATF+4.

If the fluid does not meet/exceed the spec then you would have lawsuit grounds against the fluid mfg for those who say how do you know what you are getting if it is not licensed? NO reputable fluid mfg will risk saying it is if it isn't. If it says ATF+4, but it is not licensed, you can bet it will still meet the minimum spec from any name brand fluid mfg. It is becoming more and more common for fluid mfg's NOT to get licensed due to how expensive it is. The refusal of so many oil mfg's to certify to the new GM Dexos oil spec is a prime exammple. They said no thanks on hundreds of thousands of dollars in licensing fees. They just made sure their oil meets or exceeds it and if it does they say that.

You are correct that using an approved/licensed fluid makes it easier on you if something did happen BUT it is not required is my point. You might have to fight for coverage but if you know how you can and will win.

 

I personally would not use MOPAR brand fluids. Not because they are bad but because they are extremely over priced for what you get quality wise(IMO). IMO they are just average quality like most OEM parts and fluids. MOPAR fluids are mainly a mix of various name brand fluids from ExxonMobil, SOPUS( Pennzoil, Shell, Quaker State ), etc... depending on what kind of fluid and when it was purchased( oil supplier changed recently ). You will pay a premium price through the dealer for MOPAR fluids that are nothing more than relabeled stuff you can buy at any parts store/Wal-Mart for 1/2 the price. Once in a while you will find a fluid that requires you use the OE stuff( like GM's AutotrakII fluid for their electronic t-case's )but usually aftermarket is less money and either the same or better.

The 1st question is do you have any warranty to deal with? It is possible an 06 still has some warranty left or even the LPTW if it was a leftover purchased after July 26, 2007? If you have warranty stay within the mfg's guidelines for maintenance intervals, fluid weights, fluid ratings/spec's, etc... If you no longer have a warranty you have a much wider array of choices to choose from.

You said you have a 2006 1500 w/ 5.7L. So that means you have MDS as well. That is important to factor in as it effects oil choices.

OIL: - You need to run a 20 weight oil( 0W or 5W )if MDS is active. The system relies on oil pressure to run properly. Do not use 30, 40, or 50 weight oils. If MDS has been disabled you can run 30 weight or even 40 weight oil. If you have warranty make sure the oil is API Certified( w/ the Starburst or to service level SM which is what would have been current in 06 )and that it meets or exceeds Chrysler's MS6395 oil standard/spec. If you are out of warranty the weight concerns due to MDS still apply but API and service levels are not mandatory anymore. I like Royal Purple and have run it in my vehicles since 1990. That includes my 04 HEMI Ram and my current 08 HEMI Ram. Any quality oil will work be it conventional, blend, or synthetic. I personally like synthetics in my entire driveline but you decide on your truck obviously.

TRANS: - Your trans takes ATF+4 fluid. If under warranty stay with an ATF+4 specific fluid( Valvoline ATF+4 is very good stuff ). If not then you can upgrade to a premium universal ATF like Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. Royal Purple MaxATF works very well in these transmissions as do ATF's from Amsoil and Redline. Those premium aftermarket synthetic ATF's are expensive however so be aware of that. The transmission in your truck is not the problem transmission. The trans used( 545fre I believe )is actually not bad. No better or worse than the average GM or Ford truck transmissions. It was Dodge trucks from the early to late 90's with a different transmission that had the trans issues. Long after the issue was corrected Dodge still has this reputation? NO, non MOPAR fluid is not going to crystalize.

***I would urge you to go to the dealer and buy the MOPAR trans filter kit. There is a regular trans filter annd then a secondary filter or screen that need servicing when doing a pan drop. There has been some issues with aftermarket filters not fitting properly and causing problems. This is one of those rare/less common cases where the OE seems to be the best bet.***

T-CASE: - Uses ATF+4 as well. See TRANS above.

F&R DIFF: - For your 1500 you need a 75W-90 synthetic GL5 fluid for the front and a 75W-140 synthetic GL5 fluid for the rear. Both the front and rear fluids are synthetic from the factory and you really do want to stay synthetic here. Warranty or not you want to use the correct weight, rated( GL5 ), synthetic fluid. The aftermarket fluids from RP, Amsoil, etc... do qualify for warranty purposes. Gear oil is one of the easier areas to use aftermarket and not have much issue with warranty. Again, I am a fan of Royal Purple and do recommend it. Works great.

***If you have the LSD rear axle you need friction modifier as well. However, you can buy a gear oil that already has the FM in it like Royal Purple MaxGear or Amsoil Severe gear. Both ususally work fine as is. Once in a while on a picky rear end a little FM may be needed but usually not. If you do not have the LSD you can still use the gear oil that has the FM with no problems.***

POWER STEERING: - Uses ATF+4.

ANTIFREEZE: - Use a HOAT( Hybrid Organic Additive/Acid Technology )specific antifreeze or a fluid stating it is Chrysler/Ford specific like Zerex G-05. You can also use one of the new universal type AF's that can be used in any system like Prestone Extended Life AF. Zerex G-05 is a great AF for your HOAT system. You can use regular old green( ethylene glycol )AF as long as you do a complete system flush to get all of the HOAT stuff out. They should not be mixed. Don't use GM Dexcool either unless a complete flush is done.

OTHER STUFF: - Make sure before going on a long trip that you check the air filter, belts, hoses, brake fluid, spare tire air pressure, give your suspension a look over, swap the wiper blades if older than 1 year, and verify all lights on the vehicle work as well. If your 06 has say 75,000 or more I would definitely replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and your serpentine belt. IMO a good Seafoam treatment before going would be a good idea as well.

Have a safe trip. Hope this helps you out.

 

That's what I meant. Use the type and grade recommended in the owners manual such as ATF+4 over Dextron, Mercron or whatever and the viscosity stated as well. Brand is all personal preference.
Such as my dealer uses Pennzoil motor oil and Mopar oil filters when doing oil changes. They have done all of my oil changes (they do them cheaper than I can do it myself) and in 50K, I have had no engine issues at all.
I do not know what brand of other fluids that they use, but I will soon find out when I get my trans and rear diff serviced by them. I have a bunch of money saved up on a bonus book that I got when I bought the truck, so it won't cost me much of anything out of pocket.

Thanks for the info though.

 

Some good advice given to you so far...

You mention Amsoil and I am not a believer in Amsoil in an MDS engine, although it's a fine product, the reason it lasts so long is that it has properties in it that actually adds viscosity (thickens) the oil with repetitive heating and cooling cycles. Great for longevity, but bad when you have exact tolerances in an engine with a cylinder de-activation system.
Although test show that the oil does not get significantly thicker until you get about 8000 miles on it ( I saw one independent test that showed their 0W-20 product actually approach 20-50 viscosity at 14,000 miles). The product lubricates as well or better than most synthetic products on the market, but I'd recommend no more than 6000 miles between oil changes. At the cost of the product, there are much more inexpensive synthetic products on the market that will protect as well up to that point.

I use synthetics everywhere I can. Even though I'm not a mechanic by trade, most of my family is and I've been around engines and performance shops all my life. I've seen the benefit of synthetics. The only place I do not use a synthetic product is in my rear differential because I have an aftermarket LSD which specifically specs conventional oil for proper operation. So I use a quality oil (Lucas) there and change it twice as often as I do my front differential where I currently have Royal Purple.

I run a 5w-30 synthetic in the crank (no MDS here), usually what name brand full synthetic product is on sale (lately it's been the 5 Qt. jug with a free filter), as long as the included filter is on my short list of the ones I like. If nothing is on sale, I'll usually use Valvoline Synpower with a Wix filter. But I've used Mobil 1, Castrol Edge and Royal Purple in the past with a Purolator, Mobil 1, RP or K&N filter. Currently I'm running Valvoline with the K&N (which is actually made by Champion Labs, as is the RP & Mopar filters and many other good brands). It was on a 5 Qts with the K&N filter for $27.99 so I just had to buy the extra 2 Qts.
Next change will be RP with RP filter because I stepped into an online deal for the RP at $4 and change a quart. (I posted the deal while it was offered, where were you?, LOL).
I find that the "Hemi Tick" can be louder or quieter depending on the oil I use. RP has shown that it makes the tick barely audible while it's been loudest with Mobil 1.

As far as the diff fluid having the friction additive in it, I found in my Grand Cherokee (dual automatic lockers which require the additive) that I still have to add a small amount of additive with RP. I'll get a little chatter on tight turns without it. But I only have to add about half as much as I would if the oil did not contain it. I'd suggest if you use a product that has it - DON'T add any unless you can hear a little chatter. Do some tight circles in both directions slowly and you'll know. TOO MUCH additive can be bad, so don't add any more unless you need it.

If you use conventional fluids, that's fine too. Most name brand products have additive packages in them that prevent foaming and sludging and they lubricate well. The important thing with the conventional fluids is you really need to change them at the suggested schedule as they lose their protective properties sooner than a synthetic.