I am attempting to replace my 9.25 rear end do to the clips falling off and destroying my stock differential.
Instead of rebuilding the crappy stock posi I replaced it with an Auburn limited slip. I ordered the bearing and seal kit as well. Using the stock ring and pinion. ‘Which looks undamaged, this is my first rear end (probably my last.).

My problem is what ever I do,,, pinion shims, carrier bearing adjustments,
or back lash, I get the same crappy gear pattern. First I used the stock pinion shim and gradually added .010 at a time until I reached .050 with 4 new shims plus the stock shim. Gear pattern did not change.
I’m using the original crush sleeve and pinion bearing which I have sanded so it fits on for easy removal until I find the correct shim depth. Then I will add new crush sleeve and bearing.
I installed the pinion as the manual says,,( for testing before final assembly) leaving no play in the shaft and for the carrier I have tried every possible setting,, both left and right side adjustments and back lashes with no change to gear pattern..

Can someone (smarter than me) please guide me to what I have to do in order to get a good gear pattern that I haven’t already done??

2004 RAM 1500
HEMI.
545RFE TRANS
9.25 REAR END

 

I would try and contact a member on here called areinike.

He's rebuilt his 9.25" rear end several times and I believe knows a thing or two about them.
PM him about this problem and do a member search and check his posts. These are full of very useful information.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Al

 

Ok. if he doesnt replay I will do just that.. Thanks for the info.

 

I got it.. I wasn’t tightening the pinion nut enough. I was afraid to do so until the final assembly, but once I did the teeth fell into perfect pattern.. Thanks

 

Good deal...

 

When you're setting up most diffs the first thing that needs set is the pinion depth and bearing preload. The depth setting is constant and specific for each model of housing. The variable is the machining of the pinion shaft. There will be a +/- number etched on the end of the pinion. That number is the difference in preload shim stack thickness from the standard depth spec. Once the pinion depth and bearing preload are set then the carrier can be installed and backlash set. Then check your pattern. Should be right on.

If you're pulling you're pinion from the existing case with the intent of re-using it and the case with new bearings then you should check the installed depth of the pinion before removal. Then when you install it with the new bearings you have a depth setting to achieve. Correctly preload the pinion and new bearings to the right number at the corect depth and then install the carrier and set the backlash. Pattern should be right on. In some cases getting a pre-teardown depth setting is not possible.

 

I remember areinike had a big discussion about the backlash and side adjusters.
Make sure you have a side adjusting tool, so you can torque the side adjusters correctly.
He was talking about 150 ft/lb min on the side adjusters to set the carrier pre-load.
Also, it was very important that everytime an adjustment of these was made, at least 5 rotations of the entire assembly is necessary to seat the bearings.
Also you should not use a punch to adjust these side adjusters. There's just no way you can correctly set up the torque on them that way.
Only people with years of installing gears into these rears might....just might.....have developed a "feel" to do it that way.
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

I have an old axle that I fabbed up to use as an adjusting tool for the carrier rings. Also 2nd gen to 3rd gen the carrier side gears are different and 3rd gen axle diameters are bigger.

 

I decided to come to the boards for a visit just in time. Hey, everyone. Sorry I've been away for a while. Yep, setting the pinion preload or rotational torque is very critical. It also helps to induce some sort of load simulation on the set when taking patterns as well. Glad you figured it out. I was going to say, it sounded like your assembly was moving around like something wasn't tight.

Great job!

 

Abarmby you said ,
(also, it was very important that everytime an adjustment of these was made, at least 5 rotations of the entire assembly is necessary to seat the bearings.)
do you mean before the carrier bearing cap holders are completey torqued down to the bearings, you must do 5 rotations then tighen them to specs?

thanks for your guys help,, the rear end is up and seems to be running strong, tight and very quit even at 104mph.
I am concerned that my carrier preload is not set to 150 lbs of torque.
It was hard with my home made tool to get all the way down the axel and torque to specs.
maybe I should get the tool and do that part over?