Leveling kit of choice? (not cranking bars)
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Leveling kit of choice? (not cranking bars)
Please don't respond with "just crank the t-bars". Right, wrong, or indifferent, I'm going to buy a leveling kit. Just wondering if there is a particular brand or type of kit people are finding the best to use. I'm probably going to buy something online because my tire guy has already told me he would charge me $200 to level me out with whatever catalog kit he orders.
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Leveling keys are indexed at a higher angle than the stock keys. Cranking the bolts changes the angle of the stock keys. Basically it's the same thing. I've even seen some level kits have stock keys and then in the installation instructions they have you crank the bolts (I should have thought of this, I could have made a mint, LOL)
Either way, upward pressure is exerted on the torsion bars forcing the front end up.
Apparently, what I want is a set of torsion keys. However, I'm finding kits that just contain the 2 keys and then others that have the keys and a set of shock spacers/extenders. Are the spacers good to have? Do they help preserve any handling/ride at all over the keys alone.
The thing I can't figure out is people who spend money they don't really need to on "leveling keys" but then play cheap a$$ and not buy the proper shock. But I guess to each their own...
Greg: If your $200 quote includes the necessary alignment then he's about average on the install. If not, then he's gouging the sh*t out of you for what would take you 30 minutes a side to do with standard tools, a jack and jack stand in the driveway...
Personally, if I had a kid who was going to get my truck, he'd have his a$$ out in the garage learning how to repair/maintain/mod the thing like my old man had me out doing when I turned about 14. But that's just me...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 01-20-2012 at 10:33 PM.
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He's learning his share Hammer. But he also plays every seasonal sport at school so he either has games or practice and if he has neither and we can't squeeze in a hunt of some kind, he has his head (sometimes forcefully) in a book. I'm letting him enjoy the sports now because in a year or so, he's going to have to choose one and lose the others so he will have time for a job so he can put gas in this thing.
To be honest, and this probably comes as no surprise, I'm doing quite a bit of learning as I go myself. I've changed oil and filter a thousand times over my years but not much else.
It wouldn't be the first time I've been pegged for being a cheap a$$, but in this case, it's a matter of ignorance (again, no surprise). New shocks probably wouldn't be a bad idea anyway since I'm still running the stockers after 7+ years and 90k+ miles. But I didn't consider that necessary until I started seeing shock extenders being sold with the torsion keys. So, my take, based on the feedback, is that the best method is torsion keys and longer shocks. Or, many will still say just crank the bars and put longer shocks on. Cranking the bolts is one of those things, on this forum, that just isn't clear cut to me. It's sort of like coming here and asking what is the best exhaust to buy or the best tires to get. If cranking the bars is truly no different than putting new keys on, then I see the point. But my tire guy says doing that puts too much stress on everything and a key kit should be used instead. Then again, he wants to sell me a kit and charge me for the labor.
I don't know if the $200 includes alignment or not. It does include a set of leveling keys and the installation. But, it's probably the cheapest thing he can buy, resell to me, and still maximize profit on the labor. He does charge considerably more for alignment of 20" and up wheels vs. 18" and under, so I'd probably be better off to wait and do the level when I switch to 17" rims.
To be honest, and this probably comes as no surprise, I'm doing quite a bit of learning as I go myself. I've changed oil and filter a thousand times over my years but not much else.
It wouldn't be the first time I've been pegged for being a cheap a$$, but in this case, it's a matter of ignorance (again, no surprise). New shocks probably wouldn't be a bad idea anyway since I'm still running the stockers after 7+ years and 90k+ miles. But I didn't consider that necessary until I started seeing shock extenders being sold with the torsion keys. So, my take, based on the feedback, is that the best method is torsion keys and longer shocks. Or, many will still say just crank the bars and put longer shocks on. Cranking the bolts is one of those things, on this forum, that just isn't clear cut to me. It's sort of like coming here and asking what is the best exhaust to buy or the best tires to get. If cranking the bars is truly no different than putting new keys on, then I see the point. But my tire guy says doing that puts too much stress on everything and a key kit should be used instead. Then again, he wants to sell me a kit and charge me for the labor.
I don't know if the $200 includes alignment or not. It does include a set of leveling keys and the installation. But, it's probably the cheapest thing he can buy, resell to me, and still maximize profit on the labor. He does charge considerably more for alignment of 20" and up wheels vs. 18" and under, so I'd probably be better off to wait and do the level when I switch to 17" rims.
Last edited by 04HemiGreg; 01-20-2012 at 11:04 PM.
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If your "guy" says cranking the bolts puts stress on "everything" but the leveling keys don't, you need to find a new guy because either he is clueless and will end up f*cking your sh*t up or he's lying to you in which case you shouldn't trust him.
Either way the torsion bars have torque exerted on them. If you crank the keys 2" or put 2" leveling keys in, there is the EXACT same amount of upward force exerted on the torsion bars so there is the same amount of stress on the front end. Simple physics.
I've done both, have done the crank on four or five trucks and installed keys for people twice. The ride stiffens the same amount either way.
I've got no problem with anybody opting for a brand new set of keys, but don't think for one minute they perform any differently than the stock ones. They are simply cut so that the flat that sits on the top of the key bolt is lower in relation to the hole where the torsion bar sits in so the bar is forced higher. I've held both in my hands at the same time.
It just pisses me off that these lift kit companies throw advertising out there misleading people into thinking that cranking the bars is harder on the front end than their kits. If the torsion bar remains in a fixed position on one side, it takes an EXACT amount of pressure to lift it 2" on the other side, no matter what method is used.
The stock shocks at the stock location may be ok short term, although forget off-road and they'll bottom out on a good speed bump, but the over-extending will wear them out in short order. Re-locating is ok, but the stock shocks really suck with any tire larger/heavier than about stock size, so go ahead and start your "what shock" thread... LOL...
Either way the torsion bars have torque exerted on them. If you crank the keys 2" or put 2" leveling keys in, there is the EXACT same amount of upward force exerted on the torsion bars so there is the same amount of stress on the front end. Simple physics.
I've done both, have done the crank on four or five trucks and installed keys for people twice. The ride stiffens the same amount either way.
I've got no problem with anybody opting for a brand new set of keys, but don't think for one minute they perform any differently than the stock ones. They are simply cut so that the flat that sits on the top of the key bolt is lower in relation to the hole where the torsion bar sits in so the bar is forced higher. I've held both in my hands at the same time.
It just pisses me off that these lift kit companies throw advertising out there misleading people into thinking that cranking the bars is harder on the front end than their kits. If the torsion bar remains in a fixed position on one side, it takes an EXACT amount of pressure to lift it 2" on the other side, no matter what method is used.
The stock shocks at the stock location may be ok short term, although forget off-road and they'll bottom out on a good speed bump, but the over-extending will wear them out in short order. Re-locating is ok, but the stock shocks really suck with any tire larger/heavier than about stock size, so go ahead and start your "what shock" thread... LOL...
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