I've got a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab with a 5.7 Hemi, and without getting into too many specifics, has a really bad knock that sounds like a rod or crank bearing. So it may come down to finding a salvage yard engine and swapping. I'll start another post asking for recommendations on finding a motor...

But besides the obvious...engine hoist, engine stand, etc, I wanted to find out from those who have done it what all I need to gather up in terms of any special tools, reading material, etc to get ready to do this.

I'm pretty well-stocked in terms of most standard tools. I have an air compressor and most basic air tools. Are there any tools specific to this vehicle that I might need?

Skill-wise, I worked as a motorcycle mechanic in the early 90's and I've done engine swaps on older cars & trucks (50's-60's hot rods) and even rebuilt a couple small block Chevy's, but I've never swapped out an engine on a late model vehicle...so even though I know this is well within my ability, I have to say I'm a bit intimidated.

How about a shop manual? Recommendations? Also, are there any resources online that might be helpful in terms of a process or sequence to follow for this model? I found a guy on Youtube doing a 4.7L swap on a Ram but not a lot in terms of detail.

Anyway, just looking for any advice from others who have done it. Hoping to start on this in a few weeks. Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Youre going to need a 3/8 fuel line disconnect tool for the fuel line on the intake and the two trans lines by the lower rad hose.

Also, you CANNOT use an engine hoist or leveler. The intake is plastic. You need a cradle strap to go around the engine and then lift it up with a hoist.

Be sure to start PB Blaster hitting the exh bolts where the manifolds meet the pipes. Do it now and stay on it every day or be prepared to sawzall them off.

You can download a copy of the Srvc Man from the links in my signature

 

Are you talking about this guy on youtube? I watched these videos just because I thought it was interesting. He provided a fair amount of detail, but I'm sure not all of it. He used an old seat belt for an engine cradle.

 

Thank you sir. Got the manual downloaded and I will start reading through that. I see they have a removal/installation procedure which is good.

By fuel line disconnect tool are you just talking about a flare wrench or is it something different? I have flare wrenches.

Thanks for that tip on the PB Blaster as well. I will make sure to do that.

 

Yep, those are the ones. Good videos, and he did point out a lot of areas where he struggled which I thought was good. It's been a while so maybe I'll rewatch them.

 

They make an application specific engine cradle but I guess you could rig something if you wanted to.

Flare wrenches are for fittings on transmissions and such where you dont want to strip them.

Go to your local auto parts store and look for AC or fuel disconnect tools. They are a piece that fits on the metal line itself, slides up inside the union fitting to disengage it and then you can pull them apart.

Sometimes the fittings get dirt in them so the disconnect tool cannot slide in far enough to disengage it so look out for that.

 

Thanks weedahoe. I saw the Miller 8984. Retails for $160 or so...if I can find a used one on eBay for $100 or less I might go ahead and get one. I'll check out the disconnect tool for the fuel line.

Thanks again for the information!

 

These are the ones I have.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=2356_0_0_

Or go to Autozone.com and type in part number 25052

 

OK, gotcha. It's hard to tell from the picture, but do you insert a socket into them or turn them with a wrench or something? Is there any benefit to using the more expensive ones with handles?

Nevermind...I see how they work. Will pick a set up this week.

 

There is an open slot on them. you slip them over the metal line and push them in place

here are some pics when I took mine off to do my cam swap. These are showing the trans lines going into the cooler by the lower rad hose but the fuel line coming into the fuel rail in the drivers side of the intake is the same