While trying to modify my door switches to glow blue instead of green I hit a small snaffu, such that my windows won't roll down anymore and the switch panel doesn't light up.

I just spent $80 on a new one and my windows still don't work so I've clearly blown a fuse.

Anyone know which one it is to handle these functions?

 

Open your Owners Manual... all listed in there... if you don't have one then download on using Weedahoe's signature...

What kind of "Snaffu" did you run into?

 

I'm not really sure to be honest, as careful as I was I THINK I may have put an LED in backwards, which blew a fuse before I even knew it, but that doesn't actually make sense so I must have done something else wrong......what, I really don't know.

What I need to do is figure out which pins provide power for the lighting, and make a second attempt at school in our soldering lab with the re-work stations. Those soldering irons suck the solder out through the heating core....it's bloody amazing. They also provide hot air for SMD soldering.

Anyway, Thanks, I'll go dig up his sig and grab the manual.

 

putting an LED in backwards would just impede the current flow in the correct direction...

That is why they are called Light Emitting "DIODES" (hint hint)... reverse them and check again.

Oh and the Window circuit is already nearly overdrawn with just the window circuit on there so I wouldn't tap anything into them.

 

That's why I said it doesn't make sense that a backwards LED would cause problems

All I was doing was replacing the green LEDs with blue ones. Since the resistors on the board were already calculated to work with the basic green LEDs they would be dropping the current and voltage below the blue LEDs nominal voltage/current.

Like I said, I really have no idea what went wrong, but as it stands now I replaced the switch panel with a "new" one, and I still have no lights on the panel and no window function.

I'm trying to figure out the pins out's and how it's wired now, but the wiring diagrams are pretty basic and I haven't seen mention of the lighting.

 

weed only has owners manuals for 2004+ .... does the 2002 have the same fuse layout?

 

Well how did you attempt to change the LEDs? Solder them to the board on the switch assembly?

Post up what kind of LEDs you used....

Just start checking all of the fuses, if all the fuses check out, then start looking at the connectors with a magnifying glass, look for broken pins.... and melted/browned connectors... then whip out the multimeter and start checking the circuits to ground and see if you're even getting any voltage, then check resistance over the circuit, if you have a voltage simulator you can check the actual switch assemblies themselves, and see if that is the problem.

You should have one fuse block under the hood near the battery, and another when you open the drivers door on the side of the dash, or under the dash... not sure where the interior fuse panel is on the 2002

 

The only way it could be done. Remove board from the housing, desolder 14 pins to gain access to the bottom of the board. Desolder the switches to gain access to the LED's, replace LEDs with same size LEDs.
Resolder everything. I made a couple of boo-boo's but nothing that should have affected the switches to blow a fuse or prevent them functioning.

The fact that I have a new panel in there tells me I blew a fuse.... I'm still looking through the owners manual to find the relevant info.

 

So apparently there is no interior fuse box on the side of the dashboard for my year

I did find my fuse though, #9, 40A.

What styles of fuses are the fuses in the truck? some mini blade style? and the little box shaped ones.

 

okay well stop reading and get your **** in the engine bay and check each fuse....

I just checked and the 2002 only has the fuse panel under the hood, so look at the cover and check things that are abbreviated for Power Windows, Auxiliary, etc. etc.

If you got Solder on the wrong leads (which is why you should be using Flux) you may have sent too much power to the window motors and burned them out, but that would take quite a bit...

That is why with the switch plugged in you need to check to see if any current is going through the switch when you put the windows up and down, if you're getting current through the switch then you're problem is beyond the switch. Easiest way to check this is positive lead of your tester to the output wire going to the power window you are testing, and then negative lead of your tester to GROUND, set it to DC Current (or voltage), and press your switch....

Next step from there is to check if you're getting power at the window motor, so positive meter lead to the negative wire of the motor, and then to ground. Do the same thing with the positive on the motor to double check the wire between the switch and motor.