Test Drive with Rear Driveshaft Removed?
#21
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I know THAT, the question was would the front still bind on sharp turns, and also, is it smart to drive at 40mph, plus is there going to be consequences to the drivetrain. And I did misunderstand the definition of a live axle. My understanding is that the differential supplied equal power to both wheels. In my case, with a solid front axle, I thought that was what I had. If I hammer it in snow, it takes off like a bat out of hell with both front wheels spinning, and one rear wheel spinning. Now if both fronts spin at the same speed, wouldn't that make the front a "locking" axle? If it does, when I turn, the inside tire would try to jump, because it is turning at a lesser rate than the outside. I don't know how most dodges IFS's operate, but I know my solid axle does lock up.
The single rear wheel spinning could simply mean that one of those wheels had no traction so no power was sent to it as it would have been wasted power....
Like I said though it depends on what type of diff you(we) have, and I forget which type acts like that.
It's all down to the gears inside, but they can easily appear to "lock" the front wheels when in fact it's just sending power equally to both.
read through this, or at least the areas that you don't know about, it actually explains 4 wheel pretty well and page 4 has a neat little animation that shows how power is applied in different scenarios.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm
also like Izero mentioned, running without the rear "attached" may cause issues elsewhere, but yes you can drive with just the front wheels engaged and it shouldn't bind up in turns or otherwise.....and I'm Canadian, I thought that was 40kph, not sure if I'd do it at 40MPH.
Last edited by GRNDPNDR; 01-23-2013 at 08:09 AM.
#22
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The front diffs in all our trucks except the Power Wagon are open diffs. Unless you upgraded to a DTT or Auburn or the like, you're only driving one tire----the front diff is not an LSD from the factory, in fact, the 2500 and 1500 while different in the axle design, are both 9-1/4 LC diffs, the Power Wagon is a 10-1/2, and the 1-ton is a 10-1/2 open diff
#23
Join Date: Dec 2006
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take the rear wheels off set it on jack stands remove front shaft just to be safe and run her up to about 50 mph it will vibrate enough to let someone watching tell ya where it is coming from.. I am betting it is wheel out of balance or tire with bad belt. If the drive shaft is out of balance vibrating, it will tear ujoints out really fast..
Try greasing the ujoint if possible even if you have to pull the shaft and fill a cup on the ujoint with grease and smash the grease in that way.. My boys 2500 will vibrate if the rear ujoint gets dry and if he does not get it greased ASAP he ends up replacing another ujoint. Just a few things to think about..
Try greasing the ujoint if possible even if you have to pull the shaft and fill a cup on the ujoint with grease and smash the grease in that way.. My boys 2500 will vibrate if the rear ujoint gets dry and if he does not get it greased ASAP he ends up replacing another ujoint. Just a few things to think about..
#24
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To conclude I had 2 problems first my drive shaft (front section 2 piece) was bent and the weight was 180 degrees out. This was the 4th time into the drive line shop with that shaft since doing my gears. That's why I wanted to test drive with it removed. This time I found another drive line shop. Guy really seemed to know his stuff!
2nd my winter tires are not as smooth as I like but can live with that. I will be in the market for a new set for next year.
2nd my winter tires are not as smooth as I like but can live with that. I will be in the market for a new set for next year.
Last edited by big guy; 02-05-2013 at 07:23 PM.
#25
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Big guy,
Yes you can remove your rear drive shaft and run it up to 60mph.You also can turn with no problem..Ive been there done that.I have a one peace drive shaft that I torqued and had to get from point A to point B with it out.I did tape a baggy off at the tail of the transfercase to keep the road dirt out..You will lose transfer case fluid..that is just automatic trans fluid..I lost a quart in 8 miles so be fast of what you are tryin to accomplish..but yes you can remove your drive shaft and take it for a quick test run..you also can TURN..Only thing is mine is IFS and it vibrated like a bitch when you step on the gas but mellowed out when you let off..So dont be surprised just be easy...Hope all helps..
Yes you can remove your rear drive shaft and run it up to 60mph.You also can turn with no problem..Ive been there done that.I have a one peace drive shaft that I torqued and had to get from point A to point B with it out.I did tape a baggy off at the tail of the transfercase to keep the road dirt out..You will lose transfer case fluid..that is just automatic trans fluid..I lost a quart in 8 miles so be fast of what you are tryin to accomplish..but yes you can remove your drive shaft and take it for a quick test run..you also can TURN..Only thing is mine is IFS and it vibrated like a bitch when you step on the gas but mellowed out when you let off..So dont be surprised just be easy...Hope all helps..