I'm working on some mods to the RAM in prep for handing it over to my son. I've always been satisfied with the factory sound system with the Infinity sound, but he wants more and wants to add a sub as well. Plus, the head unit I have is the one that has a CD player and a cassette deck, so it's a little out-dated. I'm probably going to order something from Crutchfield because I've had good experiences with them in the past. The prices are decent and they always include wiring harnesses and install kits when needed. I'm not going to do anything that involves cutting the dash up, so the big touch screen units are out for me. I'm just wondering if anyone else has done this on their Ram, using Crutchfield stuff, and maybe even has a pic or two showing a unit mounted in the kit that they provide. The one they showed me online appears to close up the empty space and has a little "cubby" underneath the new radio.

I talked to a consultant last night and he recommended a unit that I like (Kenwood) and it is compatible with a steering wheel control adapter (sold separately). He told me the harness they would include will bypass the integrated amp and use the Infinity sound (factory) amp instead. And then I could run a powered sub from the preamp outputs. Does that sound like the way to go if I don't intend to pull out the factory speakers?

 

I will be honest and tell you that unless you plan on replacing the speakers and putting an amp in there you will notice a difference in sound quality.

I've had many customers come back almost right away after replacing the Infinity Stereo with an Aftermarket Deck.... Only exception is if you are able to use the Amp Integration Harness, which helps a little, but you still lose a little tiny bit of quality in the high range.

You will need to make sure the aftermarket radio has 3 sets of RCA outputs, one pair for the front speakers, one pair for the rear speakers, and one more pair for the subwoofer.

Then you will need this harness:

http://www.metraonline.com/part/CHTO-02

Or something comparable, so that you can retain the OEM Amplifier.

I would highly suggest that if you do replace the speakers, that you replace them with the Infinity Kappa Series Speakers, I've had unbelievable success with customers running those with the OEM Dodge Infinity Amp.

If sound quality is what you are really looking for I would Suggest either Pioneer or Eclipse brand-names. Pioneer would be my first choice as they generally have a more robust equalizer and allow you to really fine tune the system, and they generally offer 3 pre-amp RCA outputs that you will need for the rest of the system.

Now I cannot remember 100% but I am pretty sure that the 2004 Dodge's have RCA's that hook-up to the OEM Stereo... if not then you will have to get a few pairs of "Differential Converters" to change the speaker wires to RCA's for the OEM Amplifier.


And you will need this steering wheel converter or one that is similar that shows that it will work for your aftermarket system. My tip to you is to really do your homework as those steering wheel adapters can be a major pain to install sometimes...

http://www.metraonline.com/part/ASWC-1

Let me know if you have any questions...

Remember, it is the speakers that makes the system not the stereo (until you get into the ridiculously high end of things...)

 

Izero, thanks for the tips. When I was searching this topic, before my post, I came across a thread of yours with some similar information. I am and have been happy with the sound quality of the factory head unit and speakers. I have an ipod adapter I added a couple of years ago and use it with an old ipod mini hidden in the glovebox. And now I have an iPhone dock that plugs into the cig lighter and I can play it through the stereo via FM or, the method I prefer, through a cassette adapter. I can use that to play itunes, stream pandora, and even have an xm radio app that takes advantage of the xm function of the audiovox dock. I leave mine on xm most of the time. However, my son wants more bling and more bass.

I told the Crutchfield rep what I want a receiver that fits with an install kit, has ipod/usb input, is steering wheel control compatible, and will use the factory speakers as well as an added subwoofer. And I told him that I am partial to Pioneer and Kenwood as I own or have owned many of both brands over the years and have been happy with them. He recommended a Kenwood unit that satisfied all of the above and told me that the harness they would include would output through the factory amp and speakers and that I wouldn't have to rewire the speakers. He said that after everything is hooked up, I'd still have preamp output available to feed a powered sub. I know I can piece things together myself and save a few dollars but Crutchfields prices are decent and they include stuff like trim kits/mounts, harnesses, and install documentation, as well as tech support. So if anything doesn't work like I want, I can send it back. According to the rep, my sound quality shouldn't suffer even though I am keeping the factory speakers. If anything, it should be better because the new unit has more options for tweaking the sound. Is he feeding me a load of crap or does this sound right?

As for the Infinity speakers - I agree. I've had them before and the do sound great.

 

I agree with everything you've said and you will have to do a little bit of wiring... I always suggest that you Solder the Yellow (12V+ IGN), Red (12V+ Const.), and Black (Ground) wires on the harnesses. And use Lead Free Solder.

As for crutchfield, yes they are awesome, I just wanted you to know what you are getting is suppose to look similar to, so you know you have the correct harness.

I've seen Crutchfield send out the wrong harnesses and dash kits more than a few times.

 

Izero, any tips on wiring the sub? Can I do it such that it will only come on when the stereo is on? Probably not a big deal because I'm sure it will always be on when the truck is running - always has been for me. But I don't want to wire it such that it is on even when the key is off.

 

Well there is an amp power wire usually blue or blue with white stripe... Varies by brand sometimes.

it will be called "Remote" that will run to the Amp which will turn it on ONLY when the stereo is on...

Some people put that wire on an on/off switch in case you want to turn the amp (and sub) off for whatever reason.

As for the Power wire.. that will depend on what size Amp you are getting (make sure you get a "Mono" Amplifier, it's better suited for subs), but make sure you put a fuse in the line within 6" (12" MAX!) of the battery's positive terminal.

You will need to route that wire through the fire wall, best place is a grommet that is right above the brake pedal... you will likely have to cut the opening a little larger to make it fit through... or you can just drill a hole CAREFULLY and put your own grommet on it, which might be easier.

Then you can run it under the carpeting along the doorsill and then have it pop up under the rear seats and just go to the amp from there.

Make sure you give the AMP enough space to "breathe" as they can get VERY HOT and overheat very easily.

The ground is what I always suggest you mount directly to the metal within 12" (18" MAX) of the amp.... make sure you use a lock washer (specifically a internal-tooth lock-washer) which looks like a washer with some teeth on the inside and outside circumferences.

Basically what that will do is keep the self tapping screw from backing out, as well as cut through the paint coating to get a good ground.

As a tip, I like to put some dielectric grease on the screw and lock washer (just a little bit) to keep it from rusting for a few years.

Places like Best Buy and Crutchfield sell Amp Install kits that will make it all a TON easier for you, just make sure you have a set of wire strippers, wire cutters, a drill, solder (and gun), and some electrical tape to keep things neat... If you were local to me, I'd say come by and I'd help ya over a six pack or two.

 

Thanks Izero - but to be clear, I want to get a powered sub. So I won't have a separate amp to deal with.

 

Eh those things crap out like no tomorrow... they tend to overheat in summer... but you will still need to do the same things I mentioned for power, ground and the remote wire... you will also need to run a pair of RCA cables to it from the Sub output on the back of the stereo for signal... the wiring doesn't change at all no matter what you go with.

If you're going with a powered sub I like JBL, Blaupunkt, JL Audio, and Kicker... Bazooka has taken a dump in the last few years from what I've seen.

Dual Voice Coil will give you better sound quality and response, but the price point increases, and they are hard as all hell to find in a powered setup....

Make sure that it will fit under the back seats is my only other suggestion but I'm sure you knew that already

(edit)

I forgot to mention that you should read the how-to's on crutchfield for audio and subwoofer tuning so you know how to tune the sub and speakers to minimize the risk of blowing them.

 

Weedahoe makes double din bezels for your year truck. No cutting required to install a Nav unit or similar. He gives money for your old one I believe.
https://sites.google.com/site/tricke...rambezels/home

 

I think the OP is looking for a low budget solution here and nothing too "fancy" but yeah I am prolly gonna have weedahoe make a bezel for me in the future...