Most of those are just fused to the battery. Did you try probing at the fuse to see if power is getting to the fuse.

 

Yes, and it's not getting power at the individual fuses.

From the wiring diagram, power comes off the battery into the fuse box. Then it's distributed to the output harness at C1 and C2 to C219 in the cab, then up the dash to the ignition switch. Then the power comes back OUT of the ignition switch when you turn it on, BACK to the fuse box, to the individual fuses for the components (ABS computer fuse, A/C control fuse, Reverse lights fuse), then out to those components.

The problem is that the fuse box isn't outputting voltage to the ignition switch so it never gets back to its individual fuses. I'm very seriously considering using the other two output wires in that bundle that ARE working, splicing the supply to the ignition switch into those working wires, doubling up the amperage fuse for the line I'm piggybacking on (use a 20A instead of a 10A fuse so it carries the higher load but will blow if it's shorted), restoring power to everything, and just working around it that way without overloading the other circuits.

Those fuses (ABS computer, A/C controller, Reverse lights) aren't high current draw items anyway, not like the blower fan or the A/C compressor or ABS pump at any rate.

 

Found the problem.

Went to another expert on Justanswer.com and found a guy who sent me more wiring diagrams and got on Skype and walked me through it.

Looks like it's the switch HARNESS plug that plugs into the ignition switch and I can't believe the dealership didn't catch it when they replaced the ignition switch, because it's burnt all to hell at the top, 2 inches back up the wires on the top (dark blue and red 10 gauge wires).

There's no power coming out of the ignition switch to the lead that goes down to C219. The first "expert" didn't note that there are TWO pink wires with yellow stripes. One is a large gauge that goes to a lot of the accessories, including the a/c fan blower motor (which does work). The smaller pink/yellow wire is the one that goes into pin 1 of Connector C5 on the PDC (fuse box). That one has no power at all out of the ignition switch.

He had me pull the connector and holy crap, I think I'm lucky this thing didn't catch on fire. The dealer is going to get an ear full tomorrow morning... Just unbelievable they didn't catch it when they replaced the switch. I mean the guy knew there was a problem and didn't even inspect it when he plugged it in. Flipping idiot.

Anyways, I'll post more if/when we get this finally resolved tomorrow.

 

Well, dealer fixed it, no charge.

All the incoming wires into the ignition switch come out of C2 in your PDC (when viewed top to bottom, the 2 plugs at the top, 3 plugs at the bottom). You have 3 large gauge red wires coming into your ignition switch, one blower fan output at the top right of the switch (the one that overheats and blows the switch and melts the connector, causing the fire hazard), one ground, and the rest are outputs from the ignition switch that go back to the PDC one into C2, the rest into C5 when the ignition switch is on.

They then feed through the fuse box to the other fuses then output from those fuses back to their components.

Now that all of those are working properly with current, all the items in my truck are working again! Truck back to 100% now!

Thanks to those who chimed in, been a long road! Find a Dodge pro on Justanswers.com and they can help with a LOT of things, saves a LOT of money from the dealer. Make sure you toss some extra coin their way when they're done, helps keep the good mechanics on there.