I'm having a huge problem with my new HIDs. I've always had HIDs in my, fog and headlights, and they used to work just fine, until about 2 months ago when every now and again my drivers light would go on and off every now and again stay on or off until I turn the vehicle off and when I would try to crank it then it would do the opposite as the last time, if it was on then it would be off and vise-versa. Now my light wont even come on and hasn't for about 2 weeks now so therefor I ordered a whole new canbus, 12000k, H1(cause I have after market halo, LED, and projector headlights), 55w kit and I tried to plug it up to the right connectors and still nothing on the drivers side. So I tried to hook up my "burned out ones" to my passenger side and it works just fine. Then I plug up my "new" ones and they don't work. I'm just trying to get my drivers side workin again and possible get the 55w in there too, I need help

 

Please tell us what brand of Ballasts, bulbs, and harness you have.

55w Ballasts can sometimes draw too much for the TIPM to handle... I suggest you go with 35W Ballasts and bulbs.

Just curious: Why 12000K? It has tremendously lower light output....

You should read this for some more info.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/trs_tech_hid_bulbs.php

I assume from your post that you are using CANBUS Ballasts... which sometimes don't work as intended, as they sometimes do not have the correct capacitors and/or load resistors to work correctly for our vehicles. The website I posted above has a kit specifically made for Mopar vehicles with the CANBUS system, maybe give that a try.

Before you go buying anything, get a voltmeter and check voltage at the OEM Headlight Harnesses (UNPLUG THEM FROM HID HARNESS AND CHECK).

If you aren't getting voltage then I'm going to point towards your TIPM having some issues.... and that will be a pricey fix.

Also recheck your grounds (and by recheck I mean remove, sand down rust if any, and reinstall)

 

I read somewhere.. that the TIPM dislikes HID systems and has trouble powering them...

you may need to run new wiring with headlight relays to avoid this..

BUT I would do what Izero said.. Volt meter FIRST...

 

If you run new Relays you'll get that very annoying "check bulb" thing going off all the time... not fun.... :-/

 

I'll try all this this weekend when I get a minute, would it be wise to run wiring and a fuse with a switch on the inside, straight from the battery to power the 55w HIDs?? if so, how's the proper and safest way to do so for a long time fix that will have the least amount of issues, thanks again guys

 

After having to replace my TIPM, I personally would not run anything that is not stock!! These modules are so sensitive to any anomaly and will shut down permanently any circuit that doesn't comply with its programmed parameters. You may have fried your TIPM. I don't know why they didn't just stick with relays and fuses!! I guess that's the price we pay to have our lights do fancy tricks. I would doubt you have any issues with your harness.

 

Owners have has issues with the TIPM even with stock bulbs. Numerous threads of it

 

I agree. It doesn't play well with the stock setup, why throw in aftermarket. I did nothing that I know of to have that damn box shut down my blinker circuit, but it did. After spending nearly $800 to get my turn signals back, there's no way in hell I would add any aftermarket gadgets that get their power through that box. Only way I'd do it is direct from the battery.

 

That is why they sell the relay harness kits... I'm a huge fan of the ones sold on the retrofit source's website. They are made specifically for our vehicles, and all the ones I've installed, I've never seen a problem.

They get their power from the Battery, and they only use the headlight circuit as a switch for the relay.

With the CANBUS Ballasts I'm betting they pull power from the Headlight Circuit for other functions than to just act as a switch and complete the signal needed for the TIPM to operate properly, so I'd personally get rid of the CANBUS Ballasts, and pick up a set of 35W Ballasts w/ 4300K (6000K Max) bulbs and the Mopar Relay harness from The Retrofit Source and see if that fixes it. (you can buy the whole set from them)

There have been many threads stating that the CANBUS Ballasts are trash... especially the ones from lower end brands, and/or no-name brands, so if you are still getting voltage across the headlight circuit then I'd say it's likely the TIPM interacting with the Ballasts.

Only way to find out for sure is to get a voltmeter on there.

 

2006 had a TSB for the directional issue. Caused by towing circuit.
Dodge re-programmed all 2006 year trucks to have a higher allowable circuit current so trailers didnt cause TIPM issue's.

Might want to look into that. You may be able to get your money back.