Al, I remember that thread from long ago and had bookmarked it. Everything said I had just read and had almost decided to let a machine shop cut me a sleeve but I wasn't sure on how long it needed to be and didn't know if I could use my current user crush sleeve because I didn't know if it had been over crushed.

 

I just got my friend to machine down several over and undersized new sleeves, based on the dimensions of the eliminator kit sleeve length.
My theory was that I could then choose which sleeve would best give me the correct pre load with minimum shims.
I don't agree with Dirtydogs statement of you'd have to re shim when your bearings wear in.
You'd have to do the same by re tightening the crush sleeve to believe that idea and I've never read of anyone having to re tighten the crush sleeve for that reason......... have you??
Not having a pop at dirty there. Just trying to apply some logic and possible discussion as to what's best to help you.
Good luck bro.
Al.

 

No, you should not have to re-shim after bearing wear in. If they wear then they shold be replaced which is another story.

I do know guys who do not like the crush sleeve as after several hard launches the sleeve get crushed more (ever so slightly at first) by the pinion getting pressure between the trans and rear diff. Thus the solution is a solid bushing or sleeve that will not give over time.

 

Generally speaking. No, nobody re-shims their brand new vehicle(or install). BUT, if you run the track and talk to any track person, I bet they re-shim.
I guess I wasnt thinking of the comparison..oops
The only problem with a solid sleeve is getting the correct measurement. A crush sleeve is a very easy and forgiving and requires no adjustment. it will also adapt to extreme pressure stretching that goes on dueing initial assembly(torquing pinion nut) Which would cause extra slack if not accounted for with the solid sleeve.


Now, I'll give an example of something we are all use to. Either of you own trailers? Ever have to re-tighten your axle nuts because of bearing wear? Just sayin...lol

Now Weed, I forgot to mention. You might want to get an extra set of new pinion bearings. You'll sand the insides enough so they can slide over the shaft with ease. This allows you to set it all up initially. Once you have everything all set up then you can throw on the press fitted untouched bearings.
You dont want to set up anything using the crush sleeve either. not sure what you had planned. just saying.

 

Yeah, i was watching some vids and seeing they used old bearing for pre-setup to get a baseline but I guess where I am getting confuse is during that test setup, are they using crush sleeves and torquing them down with the companion flange/yoke and pinion nut or leaving out the sleeve until final setup?

 

Also, my AllData reads nothing different from the Service Manual

 

More useful info

Mopar OEM pinion front bearing and cup (race) is P/N 05072498AA
Mopar OEM pinion rear bearing and cup (race) is P/N 05017438AA
Mopar OEM pinion crush sleeve is P/N 03507678
Mopar OEM differential bearings and races is P/N 05072506AA

Timken front bearing P/N is NP524102
Timken front bearing race P/N is NP912904
Timken rear bearing P/N is M88048
Timken rear bearing race P/N is M88010
Timken differential bearings (2) are P/N JLM704649
Timken differential bearing races (2) are P/N JLM704610

 

Well, new front and rear bearings/races are ordered. Another pinion seal, gear marking compound and in lb torque beam wrench was ordered also. I guess now I need new shims

 

I got my solid spacer kit from Yukon I believe
And it was a bit bigger and wobbled a round. i put a o ring under it to keep it centered . New bearing honed out as setup. Took Many times to find magic preload.

 

winner winner chicken dinner