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tips on rebuilding rear end

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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #61  
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Yeah cause that RP oil over here for the differential is about $22 a quart and you need 3 of them!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 01:55 AM
  #62  
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Woks out at about $50 here
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #63  
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Damn. That's crazy!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Any Base stock 4 or 5 that uses PAO is fine with me. Some people who are THAT **** when comparing 4 and 5 stocks are usually the type who are high on maintenance. SO, it makes even less difference... Just saying.

RP, Mobil 1, Redline, Valve SuperSyn are all good and equal IMO. I'll buy whatever is cheaper. I Won't buy Castrol or Synblend. Those are junk Base 3 stocks that are majority dino oil.

Weed, I think I remember reading online that the size of the bolts needed for a DIY Spanner tool is 1-7/8"? Can you confirm. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #65  
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Spanner tool? which one? LOL

So many GD tools needed.

The only DIY tool I made was for the axle tubes to loosen the preload adjusters.

I bought a 3ft stick of 7/8 threaded rod and four nuts to go on it which should measure 36mm OD.

I jammed two of them against each other on each end. One end to fit in the preload adjusters and the other end to make it easier to turn. In the end because no matter how tight I got them in my bench vice and wrench, they kept coming loose so I took my welder and welded on nut on the rod and that worked.
 

Last edited by weedahoe; Jan 27, 2014 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 05:33 PM
  #66  
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ok, so 36mm OD. Which is only 1.4"(~1-7/16") I knew it was 1-7/something..lol

Thanks.

I'm seriously considering a DTT. They are $539 from Summit and another $55 for the Timken bearings. Install should be a breeze.

I want to do a few other things so I need to see if I can swing it all.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #67  
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Well I can tell you this, you can rent a bearing/race driver set from the auto parts store but the largest race driver goes up to 3.18" and is NOT large enough to drive in the rear pinion race. NO ONE in town has in their possession, sells or can get one bigger.

The rear pinion race is 3.5" OD

OEM, LISLE and one or two others I have found do not have on larger. I found ONE company over in UK who has it. Only Miller Tools has them and they are about $30 new but then the handle for it is another $30. Im just going to use my old one to drive in my new one once I weld a flat bar across it and a handle. *****'em.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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You cant find a socket or a large pipe that would work?

Also, wood works too.

Once you get the shims correct with your set up bearings, you can boil the pinion bearing in a pan and then put it on the frozen pinion gear that you have kept in your freezer ;-) Should slide right on!
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Jan 8, 2014 at 09:06 PM. Reason: added wood..hahaha
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 10:14 PM
  #69  
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No, socket and pipe wont wont. were talking 3.5" outside diameter with a curved inner taper. the lip might be 1/8"

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...168&cc=1424630
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:12 AM
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I used a piece of pressure treated 4x4 and carved the end out to match the race when i did my cousins truck. Worked good. I would not use your old bearing because you'll groove the race surface up. I've only done cars besides his truck and had luxury of having kits for them.

Nopt sure if these are what you need. Just did a quickie search
Chrysler Service units;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miller-Tools...2873b9&vxp=mtr

^^The above guy has dummy bearings too!

Also:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Great-7-piec...a27980&vxp=mtr

Don't forget about that other tip I left you about installing the bearing on the pinion shaft;-)
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Jan 9, 2014 at 09:23 AM.
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