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tips on rebuilding rear end

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #51  
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I think for the solid spacer if you take your old crush sleeve and measure it. Get a spacer as close to that size as possible then add shims to achieve the proper preload. You will need a setup bearing at least the outer one.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:47 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by joebaum
I got my solid spacer kit from Yukon I believe
And it was a bit bigger and wobbled a round. i put a o ring under it to keep it centered . New bearing honed out as setup. Took Many times to find magic preload.
That's where I got mine from joebaum.
Sounds like your kit was as equally poor quality as mine was.
That's why I got my friend to make same high quality sleeves.
Al.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #53  
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A few pics. Notice the wear on the pinion bearing races

For those thinking about using a punch to knock out their races (I did), do yourself a favor and find a long one at about 12" long











 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:59 PM
  #54  
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The outsides of the race shouldn’t matter the whole race doesn’t spin. The coloring probably came from heat .But the inside looks bad.. Looks like it was too tight.. too loose is better than too tight.. I have come to learn on rear ends.. On vehicles that is..
But then what ate up the carrier adjustment bolt? It’s thrashed!
It looks like the tool someone used to remove it or tighten it was homemade and didn’t fit correctly but the damage is on the inside not the outside?
You may want to replace those or clean them up,,, that may have effect on setting your backlash..
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 07:07 PM
  #55  
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LOL....the preload adjustment bolts are fine. They are just dirty in the pics. I have cleaned them up since the pics.

I would assume the entire setup was fine until the pinion nut started backing off which gave the play in the pinion shaft and from there that looseness caused issues. Thankfully I found the issue before it got way worse.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 10:26 PM
  #56  
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How do your axles look? Did you replace the outer bearings and seals when it was done last time?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 10:41 PM
  #57  
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Axles look fine. Bearings and seals were not replaced but I have all new parts for that now including a new rear trans seal
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
Axles look fine. Bearings and seals were not replaced but I have all new parts for that now including a new rear trans seal
Compare the new seals to the old ones. Some seals will sit on the axle tube in a different spot. Generally the axle tube have a wear mark and just outside that wear mark is some slight rust/dirt buildup. I would scuff them down with some emery paper and smooth the out to prevent any leaks. Even if they look good....

Also, while you have the bearings out, I would clean out the insides of the tubes with a rag. You can use your axle or spanner tool to push the rag or tape a rag to the end of it.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 01:21 PM
  #59  
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good idea on cleaning the tubes.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #60  
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Weed.
My axle tubes are full of stalagtites like in a cave lol.
It stopped the install of my gears last year
I'm returning to that saga later this year when I WILL get my gears fitted once and for all.
Gonna run some abrasive wheel or some thing I can make up down the axle tubes, then paint them with some kind of anti rust prep and paint.
I'll have to make sure it's high temp stuff, so it won't contaminate the Royal Purple

Al.

Ps. Make sure your breather tube is clear. Mine wasn't and caused moisture build up and rust in the tubes.
 
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