tips on rebuilding rear end
#1
tips on rebuilding rear end
I noticed a little oil under the truck on the rear end some time back and have been keeping an eye on it but now it needs attention. I will be pulling it apart tomorrow. Ive got my Srvc Man and all the tools. I will be replacing the pinion seal, crush washer and re-shimmimg the gears.
Anyone who has done this before got any advice
Anyone who has done this before got any advice
#2
Couple of ?'s I'm sure your on top of, but others could use the info...
Are you having a problem with noise from your Auburn unit? I think that's what you said you have back there.
Make sure you get a double lip pinion seal from NAPA! And torque down the crush collar with the axles out. Obviously your going to do this since you said you were re-shimming. We all know that cant be done with the axles in place..lol
You got the pre-load tool?
Are you having a problem with noise from your Auburn unit? I think that's what you said you have back there.
Make sure you get a double lip pinion seal from NAPA! And torque down the crush collar with the axles out. Obviously your going to do this since you said you were re-shimming. We all know that cant be done with the axles in place..lol
You got the pre-load tool?
#3
No problems with the Auburn unit.
Pinion seal replacement is a must
Gear noise has always been there. I took it back to the guy who did my rear after he did it and he said it was setup right although I never believed him. Never had any issues from it until now which still should be unrelated to gear and that was well over 40-50k miles ago.
I check into the pinion seal from Napa. I was going to buy a master kit from Motive Gear being I have their gears anyway. Im sure I will need some shims although to which ones and thicknesses I am not sure as of yet.
Preload tool? Long breaker bar or torque wrench?
Pinion seal replacement is a must
Gear noise has always been there. I took it back to the guy who did my rear after he did it and he said it was setup right although I never believed him. Never had any issues from it until now which still should be unrelated to gear and that was well over 40-50k miles ago.
I check into the pinion seal from Napa. I was going to buy a master kit from Motive Gear being I have their gears anyway. Im sure I will need some shims although to which ones and thicknesses I am not sure as of yet.
Preload tool? Long breaker bar or torque wrench?
#5
No covered as the gears have been replaced with Motive 456s and an Auburn LSD. This means the pinion was pulled and everything including the bearings were replaced once already
#6
Preload tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-6602-Dif...094bb7&vxp=mtr
I found this thread on a google search oddly enough..haha
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...g-preload.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-6602-Dif...094bb7&vxp=mtr
I found this thread on a google search oddly enough..haha
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...g-preload.html
#7
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#8
Yeah, goes into the axle housings. If you have a way to save $55 by all means.
I have never touched a Dodge axle before. Only Cheby and Ferds so I dont know what will work.
I would really like to replace the crappy LSD with either an Auburn or DTT like I've been talking about for years now..lol
I have never touched a Dodge axle before. Only Cheby and Ferds so I dont know what will work.
I would really like to replace the crappy LSD with either an Auburn or DTT like I've been talking about for years now..lol
#9
#10
Well, I already bought some oil (75-140) and bought several cans of carb cleaner to clean the outside of the diff housing and the inside.
Tomorrow on the list is gear compound (oil paint from arts store), my 7/8 threaded rod and (4) 36mm nuts and two new axle seals (P/N 8835S) that are $4 each
In case anyone is wondering why four nuts, two will be jammed together on one end so it will fit into the carrier and turn it and two on the other end so I can turn the threaded rod
Tomorrow on the list is gear compound (oil paint from arts store), my 7/8 threaded rod and (4) 36mm nuts and two new axle seals (P/N 8835S) that are $4 each
In case anyone is wondering why four nuts, two will be jammed together on one end so it will fit into the carrier and turn it and two on the other end so I can turn the threaded rod