Front Rotor Temperature
#11
Yes, lower piston is stuck on both front calipers as kit will not move out or compress. I have taken both sides apart to clean and lube but there is no moving those lower pistons. Just as some background I really don't drive this truck much sincei have other vehicles and I work at home so in the past year I think I may only put about 2,500 miles on it.
Have you ever used a replacement caliper besides an OEM product?
Have you ever used a replacement caliper besides an OEM product?
#12
Yes, lower piston is stuck on both front calipers as kit will not move out or compress. I have taken both sides apart to clean and lube but there is no moving those lower pistons. Just as some background I really don't drive this truck much sincei have other vehicles and I work at home so in the past year I think I may only put about 2,500 miles on it.
Have you ever used a replacement caliper besides an OEM product?
Have you ever used a replacement caliper besides an OEM product?
But yes. A1Cardone I think it was. No issue's after 2yrs of use.
Generally, a frozen piston means moisture is trapped in the lines. I would flush your brake lines with fresh fluid because if your like the rest of the world.....you have never flushed your brake fluid because nobody ever thinks to flush out the fluid that stops you safely. Brake fluid is hygroscpic and absorbs moisture. It becomes very corrosive over time and is no good for you system. That is why it should be flushed based on time and not necessarily mileage. I have to do mine this summer. I'm overdue. My 6yr old truck w/16kmi is overdue.
Moving this back to Tech, not sure why its in general??
Last edited by dirtydog; 05-24-2014 at 09:25 AM.
#13
auto part store "re-man" are good...
remember "Crap" always go down hill. and the lower piston in the caliper is the lowest point...
brake fluid gets dark .. because moisture in the air gets into the fluid and rusts the inside of the metal lines & use and age causes very small bit of rubber break loose from inside the rubber hoses as part of the brake system.
and all the junk ends up under the lower piston... stops piston from moving.
and brake fluid should be changed every 2 years... and NEVER is. my opinion.
and the only good way to tell if a caliper is "Dragging" is by jacking up the wheel and turning the wheel with your hands... little drag is OK... anymore .. disassemble and check slides and pins .. if that does not to it... new or re-man calipers.
remember "Crap" always go down hill. and the lower piston in the caliper is the lowest point...
brake fluid gets dark .. because moisture in the air gets into the fluid and rusts the inside of the metal lines & use and age causes very small bit of rubber break loose from inside the rubber hoses as part of the brake system.
and all the junk ends up under the lower piston... stops piston from moving.
and brake fluid should be changed every 2 years... and NEVER is. my opinion.
and the only good way to tell if a caliper is "Dragging" is by jacking up the wheel and turning the wheel with your hands... little drag is OK... anymore .. disassemble and check slides and pins .. if that does not to it... new or re-man calipers.
Last edited by chuck_hammer; 05-24-2014 at 11:51 AM.
#14
That's the trouble with "floating" calipers.
They have got to be kept clean and well lubed up in the correct places, to work well.
I'm a bit OTT and **** about brakes and I always every year in summer when nice, do a full brake tear down job. Cleaning off all the collected road grime and brake dust over the past year and cleaning up the sliders as dirtydog suggested. The pads must slide over those easily or they will wear prematurely, as they drag on the rota face.
I also check to make sure the sliding pins in the caliper rubber boots are free and have that special white grease in them.
These sliders are also crucial in allowing your caliper bracket to move and therefore the pads, to "float" over the rota face.
I'm overdue on flushing my system, so I'm planning on doing all this servicing together in the next few weeks. Takes an afternoon of time but no biggie. The hardest thing is, jacking the truck up and pulling those heavy *** "20 wheels and tyres lol.
Brakes are obviously crucial in vehicle operations but luckily, are easy enough to work on and solve problems when they occur.
Dirt and muck being the usual culprits.
Good luck on that stuck piston. Check the round rubber boot which seals around the piston edge for tears. If it's split, water has ingress ed and caused corrosion on the piston/caliper port faces, jamming it in the caliper bore.
For what they cost, if the pistons are really corroded - BTW they made two types in Dodge calipers, metal and also a plastic piston type which doesn't corrode glass-fiber-reinforced, mineral-filled phenolic molding compounds to be technical lol, they but still get crap on them - replace both sides and be done with them as in my experience even if you free off the piston particularly the steel type, they are prone to sticking again in the future.
Hope all this helps?
Al.
They have got to be kept clean and well lubed up in the correct places, to work well.
I'm a bit OTT and **** about brakes and I always every year in summer when nice, do a full brake tear down job. Cleaning off all the collected road grime and brake dust over the past year and cleaning up the sliders as dirtydog suggested. The pads must slide over those easily or they will wear prematurely, as they drag on the rota face.
I also check to make sure the sliding pins in the caliper rubber boots are free and have that special white grease in them.
These sliders are also crucial in allowing your caliper bracket to move and therefore the pads, to "float" over the rota face.
I'm overdue on flushing my system, so I'm planning on doing all this servicing together in the next few weeks. Takes an afternoon of time but no biggie. The hardest thing is, jacking the truck up and pulling those heavy *** "20 wheels and tyres lol.
Brakes are obviously crucial in vehicle operations but luckily, are easy enough to work on and solve problems when they occur.
Dirt and muck being the usual culprits.
Good luck on that stuck piston. Check the round rubber boot which seals around the piston edge for tears. If it's split, water has ingress ed and caused corrosion on the piston/caliper port faces, jamming it in the caliper bore.
For what they cost, if the pistons are really corroded - BTW they made two types in Dodge calipers, metal and also a plastic piston type which doesn't corrode glass-fiber-reinforced, mineral-filled phenolic molding compounds to be technical lol, they but still get crap on them - replace both sides and be done with them as in my experience even if you free off the piston particularly the steel type, they are prone to sticking again in the future.
Hope all this helps?
Al.
#15
Ok, over the weekend I ordered and installed new calipers from Advanced Auto as they were running a 20% discount on any order over $100.00 with a $50.00 gift card towards a future online purchase. Anyway ordered the SLC852 & SLC853 Calipers and the install was not a problem at all especially since this was the first time I have ever replaced calipers. Fit was perfect, in fact the new calipers had the same Chrysler/Mopar 5-star Stamp as well as the TRW & MOPAR part #'s on them.
Anyway hopefully my MPG will go up a bit without the brakes dragging. Thanks all for your input.
Anyway hopefully my MPG will go up a bit without the brakes dragging. Thanks all for your input.