04 hemi Keeps losing oil, but no leaks.
#11
#13
recently I did a valve spring job on mine and replaced the valve seals, my oil was disappearing as well (no hood scoop) But I'm going to say that my seals were worn pretty bad around 130k with regular oil changes. I assume whom ever owned it before me for the first 60k didn't keep up with oil changes & ran cheapest grade oil they could find sadly
I have almost no oil loss these last 2800 miles
I have almost no oil loss these last 2800 miles
#14
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
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Seems to be very common with these engines as they get up close to 100,000 miles. My old Grand Cherokee (4.7 HO) started losing about a half quart every 2000-2500 miles. I did 5000 mile changes with full synthetic, so I just got accustomed to pouring in half a quart right in the middle of oil changes.
I'm thinking blow-by, because when the engine grenaded at 102,000 miles (much documented dropped valve seat) I did a complete engine rebuild and it never lost any perceivable oil until I sold it almost a yeat after the rebuild.
My '04 Hemi, which I just sold last Monday, has always stayed right at the full line with 5000k changes (also full synthetic) but, it only has 57,000 miles on it.
This has ALWAYS been an issue and the fix used to be to use thicker oil as an engine got older. I've stopped a good many GM 305, 327, 350's and Chrysler 318, 340 & 360s from losing oil simply by going to 20w50 oil up around 80k miles or so. Problem is, todays engines are EXTREMELY viscosity specific (especially cylinder de-activation engines) and you just can't put syrupy oil in there anymore.
My advice, gradually move towards a high mileage oil, like do a 50% the oil you've been using and 50% high mileage (contrary to opinion you can mix oils as long as viscosity is the same) on the first change then all high mileage therafter. I've also seen good results by substituting one quart of oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer at change time. If it's low now, top it off with Stabilizer and see what that does.
And obviously, check the level often...
I'm thinking blow-by, because when the engine grenaded at 102,000 miles (much documented dropped valve seat) I did a complete engine rebuild and it never lost any perceivable oil until I sold it almost a yeat after the rebuild.
My '04 Hemi, which I just sold last Monday, has always stayed right at the full line with 5000k changes (also full synthetic) but, it only has 57,000 miles on it.
This has ALWAYS been an issue and the fix used to be to use thicker oil as an engine got older. I've stopped a good many GM 305, 327, 350's and Chrysler 318, 340 & 360s from losing oil simply by going to 20w50 oil up around 80k miles or so. Problem is, todays engines are EXTREMELY viscosity specific (especially cylinder de-activation engines) and you just can't put syrupy oil in there anymore.
My advice, gradually move towards a high mileage oil, like do a 50% the oil you've been using and 50% high mileage (contrary to opinion you can mix oils as long as viscosity is the same) on the first change then all high mileage therafter. I've also seen good results by substituting one quart of oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer at change time. If it's low now, top it off with Stabilizer and see what that does.
And obviously, check the level often...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 08-24-2014 at 08:50 AM.
#15
Seems to be very common with these engines as they get up close to 100,000 miles. My old Grand Cherokee (4.7 HO) started losing about a half quart every 2000-2500 miles. I did 5000 mile changes with full synthetic, so I just got accustomed to pouring in half a quart right in the middle of oil changes.
I'm thinking blow-by, because when the engine grenaded at 102,000 miles (much documented dropped valve seat) I did a complete engine rebuild and it never lost any perceivable oil until I sold it almost a yeat after the rebuild.
My '04 Hemi, which I just sold last Monday, has always stayed right at the full line with 5000k changes (also full synthetic) but, it only has 57,000 miles on it.
This has ALWAYS been an issue and the fix used to be to use thicker oil as an engine got older. I've stopped a good many GM 305, 327, 350's and Chrysler 318, 340 & 360s from losing oil simply by going to 20w50 oil up around 80k miles or so. Problem is, todays engines are EXTREMELY viscosity specific (especially cylinder de-activation engines) and you just can't put syrupy oil in there anymore.
My advice, gradually move towards a high mileage oil, like do a 50% the oil you've been using and 50% high mileage (contrary to opinion you can mix oils as long as viscosity is the same) on the first change then all high mileage therafter. I've also seen good results by substituting one quart of oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer at change time. If it's low now, top it off with Stabilizer and see what that does.
And obviously, check the level often...
I'm thinking blow-by, because when the engine grenaded at 102,000 miles (much documented dropped valve seat) I did a complete engine rebuild and it never lost any perceivable oil until I sold it almost a yeat after the rebuild.
My '04 Hemi, which I just sold last Monday, has always stayed right at the full line with 5000k changes (also full synthetic) but, it only has 57,000 miles on it.
This has ALWAYS been an issue and the fix used to be to use thicker oil as an engine got older. I've stopped a good many GM 305, 327, 350's and Chrysler 318, 340 & 360s from losing oil simply by going to 20w50 oil up around 80k miles or so. Problem is, todays engines are EXTREMELY viscosity specific (especially cylinder de-activation engines) and you just can't put syrupy oil in there anymore.
My advice, gradually move towards a high mileage oil, like do a 50% the oil you've been using and 50% high mileage (contrary to opinion you can mix oils as long as viscosity is the same) on the first change then all high mileage therafter. I've also seen good results by substituting one quart of oil with Lucas Oil Stabilizer at change time. If it's low now, top it off with Stabilizer and see what that does.
And obviously, check the level often...
I've had some great results just running Valvoline SynPower. Stuffs great, IMO.
#16
Also don't stop using high mileage when you start... or so I've heard. Something about the additives that swell the seals will cause them to shrink back down after switching away from high mileage, causing more leaks.
I've had some great results just running Valvoline SynPower. Stuffs great, IMO.
I've had some great results just running Valvoline SynPower. Stuffs great, IMO.
#17
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Also don't stop using high mileage when you start... or so I've heard. Something about the additives that swell the seals will cause them to shrink back down after switching away from high mileage, causing more leaks.
I've had some great results just running Valvoline SynPower. Stuffs great, IMO.
I've had some great results just running Valvoline SynPower. Stuffs great, IMO.
Since Synpower is a hell of a lot cheaper than RP, I went with it.
Although my new truck is a CTD and I'm thinking 12 quarts of Rotella every 15,000 miles will be the ticket...
#18
Valvoline Synpower is actually my oil of choice. I've sent three used oil tests out to Blackstone for analysis after 5000k miles. Mobile One which had marginal numbers and Blackstone recommended changes at no more than that 5000 mile interval for max protection. On both the Royal Purple and Valvoline tests, the numbers were almost identical and significantly better than Mobil. Both reports recommended I could go 7000 miles and re-test but I never went more than the 5k.
Since Synpower is a hell of a lot cheaper than RP, I went with it.
Although my new truck is a CTD and I'm thinking 12 quarts of Rotella every 15,000 miles will be the ticket...
Since Synpower is a hell of a lot cheaper than RP, I went with it.
Although my new truck is a CTD and I'm thinking 12 quarts of Rotella every 15,000 miles will be the ticket...