Looking for one answer to hard start (not typical suspects) problem
#1
Looking for one answer to hard start (not typical suspects) problem
About a month ago, I go to start my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Quadcab, 5.9L gas (64k miles) truck and I get a loud CLICK. So, first thing I think is dead battery (yet no dimming of lights or tell tale click, click, click...).
I jump the battery and CLICK, retry, CLICK, retry, CLICK, catch for a sec. Retry, CLICK...start! Lights never dim. Except for jumping that one time, the above describes every time I start the truck, sometimes two three key on off cycles, sometimes 10.
I thought alternator was going bad due to odd sound coming from right there. I took the truck to auto parts store and they test the battery, alternator and starter and all pass as good. The sound? It was pure coincidence...tension pulley ($14 fix - also battery reads 12.6v and 13.5 +/- when idling)
I replace the ignition switch and problem is the same. Key on/off on/off on/off...start.
Three days ago, I notice, shift will not go down to 1st while idling. It stops at 2nd like that is the end of the shift-run. I tried shifting up into park and down to 1st aggressively 2-3 times and it drops into 1st like everything is fine on the last try.
Yesterday, same thing with not going down to 1st, re-try aggressive up/down park/1st and it drops into 1st, but now I see "4wd service" (or something like that) below the gear indicator. I've never seen that before. Next time I start the truck, same key on/off, etc. but alert is gone.
I suppose it could be the starter or component there is is beginning to fail, but the shifter has always been sketchy since day one, looking like it's in park but isn't actually without a little harder push up on the shifter. Also, a couple of years ago, it would not shift out of park. I ended up disconnecting the safety switch (???) that I think requires you to have a foot on the brake before you shift, and that fixed that.
Signs point to bad connection at the shift indicator level. Googling my problem results in typical suspect failure (battery, alternator, starter). I don't think it is one of those.
Anybody recognize this problem and how did you fix it?
thanks,
Bill
I jump the battery and CLICK, retry, CLICK, retry, CLICK, catch for a sec. Retry, CLICK...start! Lights never dim. Except for jumping that one time, the above describes every time I start the truck, sometimes two three key on off cycles, sometimes 10.
I thought alternator was going bad due to odd sound coming from right there. I took the truck to auto parts store and they test the battery, alternator and starter and all pass as good. The sound? It was pure coincidence...tension pulley ($14 fix - also battery reads 12.6v and 13.5 +/- when idling)
I replace the ignition switch and problem is the same. Key on/off on/off on/off...start.
Three days ago, I notice, shift will not go down to 1st while idling. It stops at 2nd like that is the end of the shift-run. I tried shifting up into park and down to 1st aggressively 2-3 times and it drops into 1st like everything is fine on the last try.
Yesterday, same thing with not going down to 1st, re-try aggressive up/down park/1st and it drops into 1st, but now I see "4wd service" (or something like that) below the gear indicator. I've never seen that before. Next time I start the truck, same key on/off, etc. but alert is gone.
I suppose it could be the starter or component there is is beginning to fail, but the shifter has always been sketchy since day one, looking like it's in park but isn't actually without a little harder push up on the shifter. Also, a couple of years ago, it would not shift out of park. I ended up disconnecting the safety switch (???) that I think requires you to have a foot on the brake before you shift, and that fixed that.
Signs point to bad connection at the shift indicator level. Googling my problem results in typical suspect failure (battery, alternator, starter). I don't think it is one of those.
Anybody recognize this problem and how did you fix it?
thanks,
Bill
#2
If you are getting a click, then most everything is working as advertised. Question becomes: What's clicking? Are you hearing the starter relay? Or the solenoid on the starter. It's possible for the starter to test perfectly fine, even though the solenoid is on its way out. That would give you the symptoms you describe..... or, if the relay is engaging, but, the contacts inside are worn, so it isn't actually sending power to the solenoid...... Try swapping the starter relay with the horn relay. See if the behavior changes. If it doesn't, replace the starter.
For the shifter problem, I would first make sure there isn't any slop in the linkage, and second, make sure it is adjusted properly.
For the shifter problem, I would first make sure there isn't any slop in the linkage, and second, make sure it is adjusted properly.
#3
What's clicking is an excellent starting point.I don't actually know, but suspect it is the solenoid. I swapped the relay early in the process but forgot to mention that here. In my case I swapped with the parking lights relay, they are not only next to each other, they are identical in size, shape and most importantly, model number.
I'm taking a swing for the fences with an Amazon aftermarket starter with 4.5/5 ratings, ~$78.00. Although somewhat awkward in terms of access and replacement, it's 100% something I can and would do myself. The local garage with a good rep quotes about $350 parts and labor. Starter motor is supposed to show up Thursday (1/17/18). I'll report back if that solves the problem.
As for the shift linkage, I cannot for the life of me see where it physically connects to the tranny or barring that, I suppose there is an adjustment in the dash somewhere.
thanks for the help.
I'm taking a swing for the fences with an Amazon aftermarket starter with 4.5/5 ratings, ~$78.00. Although somewhat awkward in terms of access and replacement, it's 100% something I can and would do myself. The local garage with a good rep quotes about $350 parts and labor. Starter motor is supposed to show up Thursday (1/17/18). I'll report back if that solves the problem.
As for the shift linkage, I cannot for the life of me see where it physically connects to the tranny or barring that, I suppose there is an adjustment in the dash somewhere.
thanks for the help.
#4
#6
Swapped out the starter motor as it may have tested good, but think the CLICK was coming from that area. Turns out, $78 bucks later, that was the problem. Truck fires right up with gusto.I don't like coincidences, but there were two, the tension pulley and the shifter.
For anybody else reading this, I used a 5/8 box wrench, about a foot of 3/4 PVC pipe and my floor jack to break free the lower nut and then the upper bolt fasteners. Worked like a charm. Just had to have the patience of turning the wrench a little more than 1/8 but less than 1/4 turn until fasteners were finger loose.
Box wrench sits on nut or bolt head, PVC pipe cradles up and is in contact with open end of box wrench, other end of PVC pipe sits on jack's lift pad, simple to work floor jack while under the truck. Upward pressure vs weight of truck made it so only thing that could give was the nut and bolt.
For anybody else reading this, I used a 5/8 box wrench, about a foot of 3/4 PVC pipe and my floor jack to break free the lower nut and then the upper bolt fasteners. Worked like a charm. Just had to have the patience of turning the wrench a little more than 1/8 but less than 1/4 turn until fasteners were finger loose.
Box wrench sits on nut or bolt head, PVC pipe cradles up and is in contact with open end of box wrench, other end of PVC pipe sits on jack's lift pad, simple to work floor jack while under the truck. Upward pressure vs weight of truck made it so only thing that could give was the nut and bolt.