It may be worthy to do a cylinder compression check if not already done/checked. What are the numbers (psi) ?
Let us know what you find!

 

The compression test was done and on cylinder #1 there was 0 psi

 

Well that really narrows it down

 

Need to pull the valve cover, and see what you see. Take it from there. If there is only one broken spring, just replace it, and call it a day. If you find more than one, replace them ALL.

 

UPDATE.....
So exhaust valve spring on the #1 cylinder is broken. Since I have the valve cover off I might as replace at a minimum the intake and exhaust on that side. So I bought 16 new updated springs with the metal sheath at the bottom. I also got new valve cover and spark plug gaskets.
So which leads me to a few more questions.......
1. Do I need to find TDC at every cylinder so I don't drop the valve?
2. Is there any kind of trick to getting the push rods lined back up and seated into the rocker arms once I'm putting it back together?
3. Should I be thinking about replacing or inspecting anything else while I have the valve cover off?
4. When I replace the gasket should I use anything on the seal or in the groove for longevity?

Sorry for all the silly questions but my only experience with motors are with the old air-cooled VW's
Thanks!!!

 

You want the piston as close to TDC as you can get before pulling the springs, and you want some method of making sure the valves stay closed. Either air pressure in the cylinder, or, leave the piston slightly down in the bore, stuff the chamber full of cotton rope, then roll the engine so the piston pushes the rope against the valves. (holding them in place.) You want cotton rope ONLY, as any 'fuzz' you leave, will simply burn off. Nylon rope burns, but, not cleanly, and will leave molten plastic in the cylinder. Not a good scene.

 

So where do I put the cotton rope? In the spark plug hole??
And why do I even need to do all that? If the cylinder is at TDC the valve won't drop. Or am I missing something??
Thanks again

 

Yep, cotton rope goes in the spark plug hole. You can pick it up just about anywhere. (hardware stores most likely, along with places like Lowes, Home Depot, et. al.)

The idea is to hold the valve in place, against something that you won't damage, and that won't damage the valve. I have had issues with the spring compressor sucking up the spring, but, the keeper/locks hang on to the valve stem pretty tight, and I gotta tap it with a hammer to get 'em to let loose. I wouldn't want to be pound the steel valve into the aluminum piston.

And the valve CAN drop, just not very much. I prefer they do not do that...... makes putting the springs and such back on easier.