bearing, ujoint, diff, other?
Thanks for all your replies hey you
no i dont have more tires. I could get them balanced?
id like to identify the low speed tic tic, i thought id raise the rear end off the ground and spin the wheels and see if i can identify the tic tic location. I know the ebrake assemblies have been gutted on both sides so it shouldnt be ebrake related.
If it was a balance problem, you would be able to feel it as well.
(thru the steering wheel if it was a front tire, thru the seat if it was a rear tire.) The noise at high speed may just be a product of the tread pattern....
(or tire wear.)
(thru the steering wheel if it was a front tire, thru the seat if it was a rear tire.) The noise at high speed may just be a product of the tread pattern....
(or tire wear.)
Just thought of something.
maybe a week before i discovered the 70mph noise i had a rear brake caliper lock up and get very hot. Could the outer rear axle bearing been damaged and cause any of this?
no visible axle fluid leaks.
maybe a week before i discovered the 70mph noise i had a rear brake caliper lock up and get very hot. Could the outer rear axle bearing been damaged and cause any of this?
no visible axle fluid leaks.
update
i got the clunk fixed by adjusting my tailgate
i got the low speed tick fixed, it was a brake dust guard rubbing
still have the 70mph noise
what ive done for the 70mph noise:
rotated tires front to back
rotated left to right
balanced
verified air pressure at 35
replaced both rear driveshaft ujoints
replaced pass front bearing hub assembly
all these resulted in no change to the sound or frequency
I was able to interrogate the sound a little more:
kicks in at almost exactly 70mph
frequency increases as speed increases, took it up to 80 and it was still there
noise occurs only while on the throttle, once i let off the throttle (coast), the noise is practically gone.
i could reduce the noise with quick jerks of the steering wheel, i didnt feel safe doing this at 70mph+ but i confirmed it happened a couple times when jerking steering wheel to left (thats why i did pass wheel hub). i cant say with confidence if i could reduce noise when jerking wheel to the right.
my gut i leaning towards rear diff. is it safe (for me and truck) to drive in 4wd at 70mph+ with rear driveshaft removed? if so would this confirm a diff issue?
i got the clunk fixed by adjusting my tailgate
i got the low speed tick fixed, it was a brake dust guard rubbing
still have the 70mph noise
what ive done for the 70mph noise:
rotated tires front to back
rotated left to right
balanced
verified air pressure at 35
replaced both rear driveshaft ujoints
replaced pass front bearing hub assembly
all these resulted in no change to the sound or frequency
I was able to interrogate the sound a little more:
kicks in at almost exactly 70mph
frequency increases as speed increases, took it up to 80 and it was still there
noise occurs only while on the throttle, once i let off the throttle (coast), the noise is practically gone.
i could reduce the noise with quick jerks of the steering wheel, i didnt feel safe doing this at 70mph+ but i confirmed it happened a couple times when jerking steering wheel to left (thats why i did pass wheel hub). i cant say with confidence if i could reduce noise when jerking wheel to the right.
my gut i leaning towards rear diff. is it safe (for me and truck) to drive in 4wd at 70mph+ with rear driveshaft removed? if so would this confirm a diff issue?
You are likely loading/unloading bearings when you quickly jerk the steering wheel. I remember having a lot of problems on my 04 1500 with the parking brake actuator lever getting fused with rust and causing enough heat to have the friction material separate from the metal shoe. You couldn't remove those actuators without removing the axle. I think I would pull the axles and have a look at the bearings, while you have the axles out get those levers unfused and use anti-seize to make sure they stay that way. If those end bearings are good, find a reputable driveline shop to inspect your diff for bearing issues.
BTW the 1/2 ton rear axle with factory limited slip has a design issue with the clips that cradle the diff in the housing. They tend to crack and work themselves out to the housing and start grinding a slot. If your axle housing isn't damaged yet and you need to have a shop put in bearings, I'd invest in an aftermarket diff in it that doesn't use those clips to avoid any future issues.
BTW the 1/2 ton rear axle with factory limited slip has a design issue with the clips that cradle the diff in the housing. They tend to crack and work themselves out to the housing and start grinding a slot. If your axle housing isn't damaged yet and you need to have a shop put in bearings, I'd invest in an aftermarket diff in it that doesn't use those clips to avoid any future issues.
You are likely loading/unloading bearings when you quickly jerk the steering wheel. I remember having a lot of problems on my 04 1500 with the parking brake actuator lever getting fused with rust and causing enough heat to have the friction material separate from the metal shoe. You couldn't remove those actuators without removing the axle. I think I would pull the axles and have a look at the bearings, while you have the axles out get those levers unfused and use anti-seize to make sure they stay that way. If those end bearings are good, find a reputable driveline shop to inspect your diff for bearing issues.
BTW the 1/2 ton rear axle with factory limited slip has a design issue with the clips that cradle the diff in the housing. They tend to crack and work themselves out to the housing and start grinding a slot. If your axle housing isn't damaged yet and you need to have a shop put in bearings, I'd invest in an aftermarket diff in it that doesn't use those clips to avoid any future issues.
BTW the 1/2 ton rear axle with factory limited slip has a design issue with the clips that cradle the diff in the housing. They tend to crack and work themselves out to the housing and start grinding a slot. If your axle housing isn't damaged yet and you need to have a shop put in bearings, I'd invest in an aftermarket diff in it that doesn't use those clips to avoid any future issues.
Both parking brake inards were gutted before i got the truck, just a cable running to each rear wheel, thats it.
so your saying it could be a rear wheel bearing? What do i look for?







