Downloaded a couple. They're between 1300 and 9260 pages...
That's discouraging...

 

Yeah, but, they are FAT for a reason.

 

So, yesterday did the exhaust job. Expected to take me three to four hours, but actually took me about ten hours, six hours to remove two broken studs (other two came out by hand). Ran once to Harbor Freight to get some tools ($85) and after I broke those I went to Home Depot to get some real stuff ($150). That worked.
Replaced the gaskets with Fel Pro, the old ones were two layers of steel. Why in the hell the new gaskets are not labeled L(eft) and R(ight) as the old ones? They fit to either side, but the Right side has one extra hole for the EGR valve. I figured that out only after I finished the driver side with, apparently, the opposite side gasket. Ran to Oreilly to get another set of gaskets. Now I have two extra Left side gaskets)))
On the driver side it was leaking badly, the #7 was all black around the manifold when I removed the heat shield. The passenger side wasn't that bad.
This morning I was driving to work and it didn't feel right. I didn't have a headache! This truck mounts a Flowmaster exhaust and it was LOUD. I was thinking that's how it works, but no. Apparently the broken exhaust would create even more noise that inevitably leads to extra vibrations and headache. Now it's gone.
I could also think that it may impact the check engine codes that I was getting seen that massive leak. If the computer reads 2+2 at the intake, there should be 4 at the exhaust O2 sensors, but with the leak part of exhaust gas would just go away before the O2 sensors and maybe that's why it was running "lean".
Will keep an eye on it for few days, to clear the monitors and eventually pass the smog check if I don't get back those codes. If not, next step is to replace upstream sensors. Got them but didn't unpack, doing one job at once.

 

So... I've got pending 0171 and 0174 again after resetting the CEL, was thinking to reset the long term fuel trim resetting the PCM- didn't do that after fixing the exhaust so LTFT still at 99, and clearing check engine codes didn't affect the LTFT as well.
Does it work just to unhook the battery for a while or there's something else to do to reset it?
Thanks!

 

Leave the battery unhooked overnight. That should get its attention.

 

So I left the battery out for two hours at work, it did the trick, LTFT reset to zero. Relearned the throttle body, fired it up few times and LTFT set almost immediately to 30%, STFT around zero.
When pushing slightly the gas pedal the engine would sink the RPMs and voltage and stalled two times. While driving, actually when released the gas pedal, it shut off a couple of times as well. Set to neutral to turn the engine on while moving and back to drive to continue moving.
Watched a bunch of youtube videos with similar issues so now the plan is to get a vacuum gauge and a smoke machine to check for vacuum, intake and exhaust leaks.

 

MY RAM HAD ALL THE SYMPTOMS YOURS HAD I REPLACED MAP , CRANK, CAM SENORS ALONG WITH all 4 O2s with ntks and new cats on both sides and added carven exhaust. i too had broken manifold bolt and had that shutting off sometimes randomly. i also came to find out that my u joints were my cause for the shutting off randomly and they were so bad that my drive shaft was bent also. replaced and no more dying ramdonly. and if i was u id get a thermometer and test those cats. remember the rear of the cat must be hotter than the front. if the front is even within 50 or even 100 degress cooler than the rear its bad. the rear should be 100 to 150 at least hotter than the front.

 

I was thinking about the u joints today. Had a 100 miles drive and noticed that at freeway speed, after dropping gas pedal, when would press it back I could feel like a "hit" as transmission engages, like a loose U joint or something like that. Couldn't even think though that the shutoff would be related to that. Will definitely check out the cats temperature as well.

 

neither did i. But as soon as i replaced it the truck runs smooth and no more shutting off. Cause even after all those parts replaced it still shut off but not anymore.

 

So...
Today I replaced the new Standard MAP sensor and the two upstream O2 with NTK. WHen I was under checked the U joints, tried to move the driveshaft. It was firm, but there was little play inside transmission, probably that's normal.
Results: LTFT between 3 and 5%, RPMs don't drop, smoother ride, no "hit" at freeway speed after releasing gas pedal. I guess because of O2 incorrect readings the RPMs would drop and transmission would go into lower gear.
Also smoked the intake and EVAP today (jam jar, $5 soldering iron from HF, bike air pump and a rag with baby oil )
Got smoke coming out of the EGR valve so will replace that. For smoking the EVAP line I connected to the purge valve hoses. When plugged to the lower tube I've seen some smoke coming out from behind cylinder head on driver side, but couldn't figure out exactly where it did come from even with a mirror. Will have to smoke it later a second time with front wheels on ramps so I can sneak under.
took two city 4 miles drives and one freeway 15 miles drive, only EVAP monitor has to come clear and no pending codes so far.