Vehicle :
2005 Ram, 5.7 Hemispherical, SLT, Quad Cab, 4x4, SHBD, PU, 87,500 miles.

So I caused a leak from on top of my radiator while detailing my engine bay.
I got up on top with my foot just not thinking. Insert LMAO @ Me Here.

So this is an coolant flushing question(s). ?

Is it possible too flush the complete and whole cooling system with the
Leaking radiator without overheating IE Keep topping off with Distilled Water
As needed too achieve clear Clean DISTILLED H20 then replace The old TSTAT with new TSTAT . ?
And then install brand new Radiator and fill.

Long Question thanks for reading it carefully. Answers , thoughts , and comments are all appreciated
Final question ? With my vehicle engine would it hurt too run a chemicle flush.
I won't be able to drive around cycling it through cooling system but I can idle
And watch fluid levels.

If it's advisable to do so is there a 3rd gen 2005 5.7 hemi coolants flush that's safe?
Does Mopar make one?

Thanks a million
Yours Pelican....
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Whether you can flush with a leaking radiator depends on how bad the leak is. If it's not too bad, then sure, so long as you can keep up with the coolant loss while the engine is idling.

The flush chems that are out today, are nowhere near as effective as they used to be. I just use a good descaler, (CLR, or similar) and let it run for 15-30 minutes once completely warmed up. (depending on how bad it is....) and call it good. Pay attention to the chemicals you do use though, and make sure they aren't going to harm anything else in the cooling system......

 

You can drain out the coolant and flush with actual radiator flush mixed with plain tap water. Drain the flush and fill with distilled water to remove all flush chems, then drain again and fill with coolant.

 

If you are going to replace the radiator and thermostat, why not just take out the thermostat, disconnect the lower radiator hose, and run water through the block? Blow the water out of the block with a shop vac.

 

So CLR is safe for the 5.7s.? Is there a mixing ratio I should be paying attention too.
I should read the active ingredients in both a traditional radiator cleaner and CLR.
Im assuming they are the same.

My leak is a steady moderate drip when engine is running.
stops after engine is off and cooled. I could keep up with the fluid loss during the flush.
But here's a thought. Add my CLR or A cleaner run my engine then LEAVE CLEANER
IN OVER NITE and repeat in AM.

I will be changing thermostat but I won't have a hose too flush through the port.
I do my work on public areas tool box ninja. My parts house is really kind too me.

 

That would be something I would check into.... My engine was cast iron block/heads..... I think you have aluminum heads?

 

I think this is an important issue. Yes I totally agree. I did go onto the CLR website and they do have a disclaimer about using
CLR in the radiator stating NOT too use it for automotive purposes.
And I agree that aluminum and cast iron heads are two Entirely different worlds.

Prestones makes a cleaner and Mopar does as well. I'll do the research and get too the skiny end of the debate
And I'll post my findings here. I've seen people using white distilled vinegar along with CLR in YOUTUBE videos.

Now vinegar baths work wonders on cast iron skillets as a rust inhibitor when doing a restoration .
But I can't speak on aluminum heads.

My uneducated thinking leads to this. For Aluminium heads. A far less stringent chemicle cleaner added for a longer period of contact Cleansing time would produce close too the same results but risk of damage mite be reduced.
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So did some more digging and the CLR Does make an formula for radiators. Late model vehicles.
I was assuming CLR was for around the house. But not so.
Here is a link to the CLR PRO radiator flush and cleaner HEAVY DUTY. There's another version for a liter general
maintance use. I get it now.

https://clrbrands.com/proline