Frustrated t no end ... Cylinder miss, fuses, etc.
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Frustrated to no end ... Cylinder miss, fuses, etc.
2004 Ram 1500 with a 4.7
Okay, so I have a cylinder miss and the CEL was on. Scanner shows P0300. P0301 and I think a P0151 ( OS B2 S1).
• First I replaced the plugs, but still had a cylinder miss.
• Then I replaced all the coils and still had the miss.
• Tried to reset the CEL and all of a sudden my scanner wasn't working, which I thought was really strange. So for now, I just disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to reset the CEL.
• After reconnecting the battery, the CEL was off, but my door locks and radio weren't working and my hazard lights only worked with the truck running, which again, was strange.
• The radio fuse, #21, was okay, so I tried checking Fuse #51, that's the one with the black clips surrounding it. Unfortunately, I was only able to get the fuse partly up. I can't get it out all the way nor can I push it back in.
I'm not sure what disconnecting my battery did to cause all of this nor do I know how to get fuse #51 either all the way out to check if it's good or not, nor can I push it back in, but I am totally frustrated with all of this and the fact that I still have a miss and my scanner won't work. Maybe it's not the scanner and something electrical on the truck. I don't know ...
Any advise would be extremely helpful ... thanks!
Okay, so I have a cylinder miss and the CEL was on. Scanner shows P0300. P0301 and I think a P0151 ( OS B2 S1).
• First I replaced the plugs, but still had a cylinder miss.
• Then I replaced all the coils and still had the miss.
• Tried to reset the CEL and all of a sudden my scanner wasn't working, which I thought was really strange. So for now, I just disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to reset the CEL.
• After reconnecting the battery, the CEL was off, but my door locks and radio weren't working and my hazard lights only worked with the truck running, which again, was strange.
• The radio fuse, #21, was okay, so I tried checking Fuse #51, that's the one with the black clips surrounding it. Unfortunately, I was only able to get the fuse partly up. I can't get it out all the way nor can I push it back in.
I'm not sure what disconnecting my battery did to cause all of this nor do I know how to get fuse #51 either all the way out to check if it's good or not, nor can I push it back in, but I am totally frustrated with all of this and the fact that I still have a miss and my scanner won't work. Maybe it's not the scanner and something electrical on the truck. I don't know ...
Any advise would be extremely helpful ... thanks!
Last edited by nyrainman; Mar 30, 2021 at 04:48 AM.
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Save your wallet and stop firing the parts cannon at it.
It sounds like you may have lost a ground somewhere. Use a test light and poke around the engine and make sure your engine block is grounded to the chassis.
There's also the possibility it shot a rocker out, but that wont cause the PCM communications issue.
It sounds like you may have lost a ground somewhere. Use a test light and poke around the engine and make sure your engine block is grounded to the chassis.
There's also the possibility it shot a rocker out, but that wont cause the PCM communications issue.
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Save your wallet and stop firing the parts cannon at it. It sounds like you may have lost a ground somewhere. Use a test light and poke around the engine and make sure your engine block is grounded to the chassis. There's also the possibility it shot a rocker out, but that wont cause the PCM communications issue.
I'll try checking the ground tomorrow, thanks.
But do you have any info on that fuse #51 with the black plastic gripper handles that won't go in or out?
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Code:
IOD FUSE DESCRIPTION All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse that is disconnected within the Integrated Power Module when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. Dealer personnel are to reconnect the IOD fuse in the Integrated Power Module as part of the preparation procedures performed just prior to new vehicle delivery. A laser printed fuse layout map is integral to the Integrated Power Module cover to ensure proper fuse identification. The IOD fuse is a 20 ampere mini blade-type fuse, located in fuse cavity # 51 (Fig. 6). The fuse is secured within a black molded plastic fuse holder and puller unit that serves both as a tool for disconnecting and reconnecting the fuse in its Integrated Power Module cavity, and as a fuse holder that conveniently stores the fuse in the same Integrated Power Module cavity after it has been disconnected. CIRCUITS INCLUDED WITH IOD FUSE ² Cluster (CCN) ² Diagnostic Connector ² Map Lamps ² Glove Box Lamp ² Courtesy Lamps ² Radio ² Underhood Lamp OPERATION The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD fuse feeds the memory and sleep mode functions for some of the electronic modules in the vehicle as well as various other accessories that require battery current when the ignition switch is in the Off position. The only reason the IOD fuse is disconnected is to reduce the normal IOD of the vehicle electrical system during new vehicle transportation and pre-delivery storage to reduce battery depletion, while still allowing vehicle operation so that the vehicle can be loaded, unloaded and moved as needed by both vehicle transportation company and dealer personnel. The IOD fuse is disconnected from Integrated Power Module fuse cavity # 51 when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant. Dealer personnel must reconnect the IOD fuse when the vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to restore full electrical system operation. Once the vehicle is prepared for delivery, the IOD function of this fuse becomes transparent and the fuse that has been assigned the IOD designation becomes only another Fused B(+) circuit fuse. The IOD fuse can be used by the vehicle owner as a convenient means of reducing battery depletion when a vehicle is to be stored for periods not to exceed about thirty days. However, it must be remembered that disconnecting the IOD fuse will not eliminate IOD, but only reduce this normal condition. If a vehicle will be stored for more than about thirty days, the battery negative cable should be disconnected to eliminate normal IOD; and, the battery should be tested and recharged at regular intervals during the vehicle storage period to prevent the battery from becoming discharged or damaged. REMOVAL The Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse is disconnected from Integrated Power Module fuse cavity # 51 when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant. Dealer personnel must reconnect the IOD fuse when the vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to restore full electrical system operation. (1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. (2) Remove the Integrated Power Module cover. (3) Grasp the outer tabs of the IOD fuse holder unit in fuse cavity # 51 between the thumb and forefinger and pull the unit firmly upward. (4) Install the Integrated Power Module cover.
Last edited by Prismatic; Mar 30, 2021 at 03:00 AM.
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Code:
Dealer personnel must reconnect the IOD fuse when the vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to restore full electrical system operation. (1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. (2) Remove the Integrated Power Module cover. (3) Grasp the outer tabs of the IOD fuse holder unit in fuse cavity # 51 between the thumb and forefinger and pull the unit firmly upward. (4) Install the Integrated Power Module cover.
Oh, and the other code I was getting was the P0151, OS B2 S1, which I found can cause the engine to run rough, extra gas consumption and a CEL, all which is what I was experiencing. So since I did feel more power once the plugs and coils were replaced (coils had over 276k miles on them) and still having a ruff or misfire, the sensor is next on my list to replace. Got a new one in yesterday and will have to get that in today if possible.
Last edited by nyrainman; Mar 30, 2021 at 05:12 AM.
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Update: With fuse #51 pulled up, the only thing in the list connected to it that didn't work was the radio and diagnostic connector, which the latter might explain why my scanner would not work. But with that fuse connected or not, the radio and door locks didn't work and the hazard lights only worked if the truck was start.
I pressed down on all the fuses, not that any of them looked loose, then all of a sudden, my radio, door locks and hazard lights worked as they should. Even the scanner now worked when plugged in. Now I'm curious whether or not there might be something wrong with the fuse control center not connecting some of the fuses as they should.
I'll have to check the ground wire from the battery, but that wire looks in good condition from the engine compartment.
I pressed down on all the fuses, not that any of them looked loose, then all of a sudden, my radio, door locks and hazard lights worked as they should. Even the scanner now worked when plugged in. Now I'm curious whether or not there might be something wrong with the fuse control center not connecting some of the fuses as they should.
I'll have to check the ground wire from the battery, but that wire looks in good condition from the engine compartment.
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Are there connectors on the back side of the fuse block? One of those might be coming loose.....
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For the past 6+/- months, every once in a while, I would start the truck up in the morning and find the radio was reset, meaning that it was on AM stations and the time wasn't correct. Recent months, there were a few times where I would shut the truck off and notice my key lock or buttons didn't work and then seen that the radio was not coming on either. This would last for a few minutes then back to normal.
Over the past couple weeks I started having a misfire, replaced the plugs, which didn't help. Replaced the coils, which didn't help. And with the truck showing in the past a P0300, P0301 and a P0151 code, the oxygen sensor was next to be replaced. But before I tried to do that (here is where I am now) I reset the CEL and went to run the truck through a run cycle to see if it only tripped an oxygen sensor code and not a P0300 or P0301, which would at least show me that the repairs I did at least took care of that.
The short of the long is, I never found out why the #51 fuse was good, yet occasionally the radio, door locks, and now the glove compartment light, as well as the diagnostic connector didn't work, all of which pertain to that fuse. So in respect to running the truck through a drive cycle to try and see if it triggers any other CEL codes, I started it and while it was warming up I went under the hood and happened to touch the positive cable that goes from the battery to the fuse box and the truck stalled. Now it wouldn't start at all, which it never did before. I played with the cable and finally got the truck to start, but it wouldn't stay idled and ran so rough I thought I was in an earthquake.
I pulled the fuse box and am now going to replace it, since a number of things seem to point to it malfunctioning, but the question I have is, if I replace it with the same part number and vendor number, do I have to do any kind of hard reset or anything else so the replacement box will read the trucks electronics properly?
Last edited by nyrainman; Mar 31, 2021 at 05:20 PM.
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Update - Well, in case anyone else has a question about swapping out the fuse box, I bought a used one off eBay and made sure it had the same numbers as the original. After installation I did a 12 second ignition on with the key, as per the video above, and the truck started right up without any problems.
Before the swap, I had some problems with certain things not functioning correctly, such as the radio occasionally not working, the door locks doing the same thing and the hazard lights not functioning when the truck was off, but worked when the truck was running. Oh, and the diagnostic connector will not connect to my odbII scanner. The fuses were okay, which caused a little frustration, but one day I moved the connector where the positive cable connected to the fuse box, which was loose due to the surrounding plastic being broken and the truck stalled and would not start.
The new (used) fuse box got me up and running, but the same things still did not work. So now I need to look into this deeper and trace where all these items connect to the fuse box to see why they are not working, as I don't think it is the fuse box.
Not sure if I still have a misfire at this point, but when I get the truck on the road and if it's still there, I'll change out the oxygen sensor that's been triggering an engine code, when the diagnostic connector worked. Although I've been under the truck and cannot find the sensor. Oh well, a job for another day ...
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
Before the swap, I had some problems with certain things not functioning correctly, such as the radio occasionally not working, the door locks doing the same thing and the hazard lights not functioning when the truck was off, but worked when the truck was running. Oh, and the diagnostic connector will not connect to my odbII scanner. The fuses were okay, which caused a little frustration, but one day I moved the connector where the positive cable connected to the fuse box, which was loose due to the surrounding plastic being broken and the truck stalled and would not start.
The new (used) fuse box got me up and running, but the same things still did not work. So now I need to look into this deeper and trace where all these items connect to the fuse box to see why they are not working, as I don't think it is the fuse box.
Not sure if I still have a misfire at this point, but when I get the truck on the road and if it's still there, I'll change out the oxygen sensor that's been triggering an engine code, when the diagnostic connector worked. Although I've been under the truck and cannot find the sensor. Oh well, a job for another day ...
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
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Update - Finally installed the O2 sensor and cleared the P0151 code and so far, which has only been one day, the truck ran fine except for one steep hill, where it seemed to hold back and shake a little trying to go up the hill. I'm not sure if this was caused by the fact I reset the engine codes by disconnecting the battery and the computer has to read or connect with the new sensor or not, but if anyone has any input, that would be great.
Original problem was an engine misfire. Installed new plugs and coil pack, still misfired and after taking care of the CEL and P0151 code, the above was the result.
Original problem was an engine misfire. Installed new plugs and coil pack, still misfired and after taking care of the CEL and P0151 code, the above was the result.