Stereo Question
might I offer a piece of advice if you are going to rewire the whole thing?
Tie or tape the end of your new wire to the end of the stock wire inside the dash that would hook up to the factory amp. Then say you start with the front door, pull the speaker out and disconnect the factory wire (make sure its not taped along the way and has a free path to be pulled out) and pull...this will pull the end of your new wire through the spot the old one was ran and save you some time
Tie or tape the end of your new wire to the end of the stock wire inside the dash that would hook up to the factory amp. Then say you start with the front door, pull the speaker out and disconnect the factory wire (make sure its not taped along the way and has a free path to be pulled out) and pull...this will pull the end of your new wire through the spot the old one was ran and save you some time
The door speaker wires go through at least one connector block before hitting the door itself, so you can't just cut, tape, and pull through.
If you need the wiring diagram at the output of the amp, isn't that in the RAM service manual? I have it downloaded, but don't have the Infinity, so I never looked. It sure does have everything else, so I would bet it has the pinouts for the amp. If you don't have the manual, let me know and I will look it up.
As for me and my stock DC radio, I used the Bazooka F.A.S.T. inline connectors and harness to extend a remote turn-on and speaker feeds to a hi/low converter which feeds the amp for my subs. Didn't have to splice the factory wiring.
Israel
If you need the wiring diagram at the output of the amp, isn't that in the RAM service manual? I have it downloaded, but don't have the Infinity, so I never looked. It sure does have everything else, so I would bet it has the pinouts for the amp. If you don't have the manual, let me know and I will look it up.
As for me and my stock DC radio, I used the Bazooka F.A.S.T. inline connectors and harness to extend a remote turn-on and speaker feeds to a hi/low converter which feeds the amp for my subs. Didn't have to splice the factory wiring.
Israel
Output wiring from the amp
RFdoor +GY/YL -GY/LB
LFdoor +DG/YL -DG/LB
Rinst +GY/DG -GY/LG
Linst +GY/OR -GY/YL
Cinst +GY/DG -GY/YL (shared + from Rinst and - from Linst)
Lrear +GY/LG -GY/DG
Rrear +DG/LG -DG/GY
Israel
RFdoor +GY/YL -GY/LB
LFdoor +DG/YL -DG/LB
Rinst +GY/DG -GY/LG
Linst +GY/OR -GY/YL
Cinst +GY/DG -GY/YL (shared + from Rinst and - from Linst)
Lrear +GY/LG -GY/DG
Rrear +DG/LG -DG/GY
Israel
I appreciate all the help you guys have been giving me. I am a novice at these installations. The whole rewiring and or cut and splicing scares the hell out of me. Do you suggest I just take my truck to a reputable shop? I'm not looking for massive thumping bass or big power amps. I just want better sound at a little bit elevated volume. Plus I'd like something I can plug my Ipod directly into for better sound than the FM modulators.
I would think that it would still be easier to hook in to the wiring at the amp-output side. Its closer to the head and all within the same area behind the dash.
What's your goal? To replace the head unit, remove/bypass the amp, and still keep the 7-speaker setup?
Is the problem really more of an issue with the amp's internal configuration? the way the crossover is set up inside so that you get the low-pass on the front doors, maybe full range on the rear doors, and highs up front? Would it be possible to just replace the amp, still understanding that you would have to wire it all in, and leave the stock Infinity head?
Israel
What's your goal? To replace the head unit, remove/bypass the amp, and still keep the 7-speaker setup?
Is the problem really more of an issue with the amp's internal configuration? the way the crossover is set up inside so that you get the low-pass on the front doors, maybe full range on the rear doors, and highs up front? Would it be possible to just replace the amp, still understanding that you would have to wire it all in, and leave the stock Infinity head?
Israel
that refering to me or the originator of the topic?
if to me:
I'm replacing everything.
HU- Kenwood eXcelon KVT-817DVD
Midrange Amp: Orion 8004
Front Stage: Crystal 3.5"s in the dash run off deck power for extra forward fill, Crystal 3-way component set utilzing 7" woofers in the stock door locations, 4" mid-basses in Q-Logic kickpanels along with the tweeters in the set.
Rear Stage: Crystal 6.5" kevlar component sets.
Subwoofer Amp: Orion 1200D
Subwoofers: (2) OZ Audio Matrix ELITE 10"s
I'm sure keeping the stock wiring that runs to the door would be fine for smaller drivers but not with the power Ill have on hand.
if to me:
I'm replacing everything.
HU- Kenwood eXcelon KVT-817DVD
Midrange Amp: Orion 8004
Front Stage: Crystal 3.5"s in the dash run off deck power for extra forward fill, Crystal 3-way component set utilzing 7" woofers in the stock door locations, 4" mid-basses in Q-Logic kickpanels along with the tweeters in the set.
Rear Stage: Crystal 6.5" kevlar component sets.
Subwoofer Amp: Orion 1200D
Subwoofers: (2) OZ Audio Matrix ELITE 10"s
I'm sure keeping the stock wiring that runs to the door would be fine for smaller drivers but not with the power Ill have on hand.
I was intending, but didn't specify, to ask mpd (originator).
Vader, sounds like you have a pretty complete setup going in -- impressive. The service manual shows where the connector blocks are -- I downloaded the manuals from one of the hemi truck links (will have to look it up for you if you want). I'm pretty sure that the front door blocks would (obviously) be behind the kick panels on either side -- similar for the rear doors (behind the center post). Anyway, the wires don't run straight from the dash all the way to the door speakers without junctions.
Israel
Vader, sounds like you have a pretty complete setup going in -- impressive. The service manual shows where the connector blocks are -- I downloaded the manuals from one of the hemi truck links (will have to look it up for you if you want). I'm pretty sure that the front door blocks would (obviously) be behind the kick panels on either side -- similar for the rear doors (behind the center post). Anyway, the wires don't run straight from the dash all the way to the door speakers without junctions.
Israel
I suggested that to him because on a couple of vehicles I had been lucky enough to have that happen...it wasnt junctioned at all between the HU and the door speaker. Older vehicles though and we all know how things change with time
.
Thanks for the response about my future system...Ill be sure to snap some pics as I go along.
.Thanks for the response about my future system...Ill be sure to snap some pics as I go along.



