Jack slipped on front now rear wheels lock when wheel is turned?
#11
03-14-2023 | 08:18 AM
All Star
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 833
Likes: 67
From: Chesapeake, VA
Safe to drive? I doubt anyone will recommend driving a truck with collapsed rear leaf and shocks, that is stuck in 4wd.
I would be OK driving with the rear suspension problem by driving very slow and taking long turns. I'd be more concerned about the front diff; it's not meant to be engaged and driven on the street.
The part number for the leaf spring in your picture is an OEM 1700lb spring. I'd recommend replacing the spring, shock, shackles, and thru bolts. You can get the leaf springs/shackles from a junk yard for cheap. I recommend new shocks.
For the 4wd, I guess you have an electronic vice manual shifter?
Use caution when removing those leaf springs and shocks, there is a significant about energy in those right now. I'd jack the frame for removal.
I would be OK driving with the rear suspension problem by driving very slow and taking long turns. I'd be more concerned about the front diff; it's not meant to be engaged and driven on the street.
The part number for the leaf spring in your picture is an OEM 1700lb spring. I'd recommend replacing the spring, shock, shackles, and thru bolts. You can get the leaf springs/shackles from a junk yard for cheap. I recommend new shocks.
For the 4wd, I guess you have an electronic vice manual shifter?
Use caution when removing those leaf springs and shocks, there is a significant about energy in those right now. I'd jack the frame for removal.
Last edited by jrsick; 03-14-2023 at 08:21 AM.
#12
03-14-2023 | 09:20 PM
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
Safe to drive? I doubt anyone will recommend driving a truck with collapsed rear leaf and shocks, that is stuck in 4wd.
I would be OK driving with the rear suspension problem by driving very slow and taking long turns. I'd be more concerned about the front diff; it's not meant to be engaged and driven on the street.
The part number for the leaf spring in your picture is an OEM 1700lb spring. I'd recommend replacing the spring, shock, shackles, and thru bolts. You can get the leaf springs/shackles from a junk yard for cheap. I recommend new shocks.
For the 4wd, I guess you have an electronic vice manual shifter?
Use caution when removing those leaf springs and shocks, there is a significant about energy in those right now. I'd jack the frame for removal.
I would be OK driving with the rear suspension problem by driving very slow and taking long turns. I'd be more concerned about the front diff; it's not meant to be engaged and driven on the street.
The part number for the leaf spring in your picture is an OEM 1700lb spring. I'd recommend replacing the spring, shock, shackles, and thru bolts. You can get the leaf springs/shackles from a junk yard for cheap. I recommend new shocks.
For the 4wd, I guess you have an electronic vice manual shifter?
Use caution when removing those leaf springs and shocks, there is a significant about energy in those right now. I'd jack the frame for removal.
As far as the suspension components I found some brand new Husky (1700lb) leaf springs+moog shackles that were never installed. Gonna pick them up Saturday for $150. I know I'm still going to have to buy new U-bolts and struts though.
I know I'm going to have to jack up the frame but should I only be removing the wheel from one side (after axle is supported), swapping out suspension components, putting the wheel back on, then moving onto the next side for tire removal and suspension swap? Or should I support the rear axle, remove both tires, then start swapping? Or does it not make a difference? Sorry but I haven't been able to find a diy for it......