Not sure if this is going to get many replies. And sorry for the wall of text

I just picked myself up an 08 with the magnum 4.7L V8. I’ve driven it a few times and it feels like it has nice power and no bad noises so far. But I haven’t heard too many good things about the engine and I would like to know other options.


At the end of the day the truck has 245,000km (150,000 miles) and I’m not sure how well the last owner took care of her so the engine may not be long for this world.

Anyway I was wondering if the stock transmission and ECU/electronics are compatible with a 2011 5.7L Hemi without major modifications. As one of my local used part stores has a couple

 

If the truck was taken care of, the engine will treat you well. It was mainly those that weren't maintained which were bad and gained a bad reputation. The issue with going from a 2008 to 2011 is the electronics aren't really the same as the 2008 model year was the last of the 3rd generation, and the 4th generation began with the 2009 model year.

 

Nice Truck! How many 2023 dollars did that set you back?

1st, Is the Check Engine light illuminated?
If so what codes are you going to post here? (google them too, so you have some idea what they MAY be 'suggesting... and keep in mind that likely the eagerly helpful kid at the autoparts store is only faintly familiar with what they MAY mean) Malfunction code are merely clues, they do not tell you what is broken.

2nd, Are there any loud, abnormal sounds coming from the engine?

3rd, Does the exhaust smell abnormal (from a distance)? Does it smoke (color, when)? Does you new girlfriend wet the bed (oil leaks, coolant leaks, transmission leaks / differential)

So, myself, I wouldn't pull the plug on her just yet. Save her if you can.. OR, at very least, evaluate her to see if she is worth saving.
Biggest problem with a neglected engine could be sludge in the oil pan. Old coolant that has lost its anti corrosion properties, Driving around with the check engine light on (without knowing what you area ignoring and how it is eventually going to ruin your day) and aged hoses, belts, belt pulleys, etc. Even perhaps a clogged catalytic converter or defective injectors, fouled throttle body and perhaps a myriad of electronic components that are not relaying information to the computer.

Consider: Fix it if you can.... It was perfect (near perfect) when it left the factory, everything worked...

THE heart of that truck, the engine.
I would start by doing a compression check.
There is the more common dynamic compression check. And then there is a differential compression check. A compression check (and the condition of the spark plugs, keep track of which one goes where, post a picture) compression check would give you an indication of how 'worn out', 'broken' or 'neglected' the motor is. And even if you find a flat cylinder (or oil soaked / carbon fouled spark plug), that doesn't necessarily mean that the engine block should be used as mooring weight for your sailboat.

Consider that an old, tired, homeless hobo... that they can be bathed, fed, attended to their medical ailments, etc... and unless you knew them when, nobody would know the difference.

Cheers!

Hey, I ask everyone... please keep us up to date with what you area doing and how you get her fixed up. I love pictures too... It is your feedback, posted for everyone to read, your feedback completes this forum (any forum)

Congratulations on your new truck and welcome to the forum!

 

Are you towing a lot of trailers right away??
I see you have the sideview mirror flipped up into the 'towing' configuration...

 

No I’m not towing anything right away, I had only just realized they were tow mirrors before I took the pictures so I flipped them out too send to my brother. She’s staying off the road for a couple weeks. It does need some work so I’m not going to risk doing more damage before she’s fixed

 

Yeah I was thinking that was the case because the 4th gen has some of that highway eco tech

 

it set me back $1,700 Canadian. My cousin took a look at it and confirmed that the body and frame are still in really good condition so it’s worth working on.


1st there is a engine light on, but I took a code reader to it and it seems like it’s in relation to one of the rear speed sensors being dead.


2nd there’s no knocking or anything like that. There’s a slight popping when accelerating but that’s because the last owner took off the muffler and didn’t straight pipe it so the exhaust comes out under the cab.


3rd there’s a slight burning smell and she does seem to burn just a little bit of oil, not a crazy amount though might just need new piston rings. When getting her to about 5,000 rpm it looks like she rolling coal, but just slightly, otherwise the colour of the exhaust is fine. There’s one leak and I think it’s just the coolant, but it’s not like she making puddles. Just a drip every few minutes, though it could’ve been condescension from the AC.


a 5.7 would be nice but at the end of the day it’s likely to be cheaper and less of a headache to service the 4.7 so I’m keeping it as long as it will keep chugging along. I’ll be doing the work myself alongside a buddy that’s a mechanic, so I don’t have to pay for labour and afford better parts. I’ll just have to bring him a case of beer and maybe a little pot.


it’s my first time owning a truck (or even a vehicle of this age) so I’m new to all this. I thank you all for your helpful feedback. I plan you keep you all up to date on this thread and I’ll definitely be posting pictures as I go along with the repairs

 

A fair deal indeed! Great actually, I just acquired my 2004 for twice that in USD On the driverside of the transmission there are two sensors, and they are identical. They are magnetic pick up speed sensors. sometimes they get some metal grit stuck to the tip and can send error information. The forward one is the input (from the engine) and the rear one is the output (to rear wheels).
Carefully remove the wiring connector(s) by slide the red lock tab then squeeze the connector clip and wiggle pull.

Swap those two sensors, clear the code, and then see if the code reappears, has it moved to the other position? If it has, then you can be pretty sure that it was a defective sensor and you can replace it with confidence.
My self I always get Mopar sensors if available and affordable. FleaBay likely has OEM or Amazon too (and other imitations, less reliable). I've seen the three transmission sensors for $70USD (remember the adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" ) So just get the parts you need.
Remove the single bolt with a 10mm and wiggle / pull the sensor straight out. Clean off the tip by pinch pulling metal particles away with a paper towel. You should lubricate the orings with either Vaseline or perhaps, since while you are under there, you can get a little transmission fluid with your finger from the hole, it doesn't need much.
*** ONLY use ATF+4 transmission fluid on Mopar vehicles for transmission (and it is approved for power steering fluid as well)
Anything on this list:
https://www.centerforqa.com/licensed-atf4-brands/
Beware the counter guy who tries to sell you anything "universal" such as transmission fluid or coolant. Maybe someone sawzall stole the cat? ... Nah, Canadian's are too polite to do stuff like that to their neighbors Get that fixed, reduced exhaust back pressure messes with the engine valves and confuses the computer and oxygen sensors. 5000... it is not a motorcycle, lol keep that up and piston rings will no longer be a concern, you'll be shopping for a 5.7. Compression test will reveal the condition of the piston rings. Many times you'll find the oil pan leaking at the seam gasket on any older vehicle. Previous owners for whatever reason who do not keep up with maintenance are notorious for not changing the oil.at either (if full synthetic) change oil at say 7,000 miles or once a year. Oil change interval shortens for heavy/hard ab use, regular oil/ synthetic blend. I said this because I would consider removing the oil pan and cleaning it, and while you are there, remove the oil pump pickup tube and clean the screen on it, AND replace the oring seal for the pickup tube. Use a quality gasket (FelPro is usually good) and reinstall the pan using blue medium thread lock 242 and tighten the bolts in cross pattern using a torque wrench. Do this work perfect and you will probably never have to go in there ever again. We're looking forward to it!

 

about the sensor, the computer said it was in the passenger side rear hub. The issue is that it’s setting off the ABS system. Looking online 8 out of 10 times the speed sensor trips it but it makes the same code as a broken abs sensor, and that part is discontinued

 

I misunderstood, I did not realize it was an ABS code, I thought you said input speed sensor.

My bad.

Well, it depends how they (mopar engineers) did it. On my 2002 TnC when the left rear sensor squawked, although it was a different part number, I was able to temporarily swap the left and the right rear sensors for testing purposes. (the difference was mounting clamps and such that were 'mirrored' to be installed on opposite sides and connect to stuff forever longevity) So temporarily, it was easiest test for me to swap sensors and drive around the block. Sure enough my passenger wheel sensor was then faulting, I bought a Driver side replacement and put everything back like Walter Chrysler originally intended (except with an SMP brand sensor)

Now, on my '04 1500, not so easy. The (front) speed sensor is build into the actual wheel hub and aftermarket that part is $175,... I pulled off the driver wheel and inspected for wire damage. Not seeing anything obvious, I un-did the connector, blasted it with electrical contact cleaner, and reassembled it. Then I reset the code and three weeks and over a thousand miles and no more code... Lucky is many times better than being good...

There were brakes recently put on the front, and sometimes those animals will allow a cast iron brake caliper hang by the hose and that hose is connected to that ABS wire... and I unfairly blame some ham fisted mechanic, perhaps they used a bungee cord and it slipped or who really knows...

My point being, throwing parts at a vehicle can get real expensive, real fast.
AND, you just changed a bunch of OEM quality parts for cheaper replicas (that may not be good, just because they are new) and then you are a thousand into something and it still doesnt work and may have more faults than when you started...

Please excuse my frustration.
I learned how to fix cars when I was a kid because I couldn't afford to pay anyone to do it for me.
Then I became and aircraft mechanic and **** got real, and my quality HAD TO improve.
Now that I can afford to pay someone, I can't find anyone that cares like I do.

Man. I type way too much!