Have you ever used a CAI? Can you say from your own personal experience that none of them work or do any good? And Im not just talking about any of air rams models Im talking about every single CAI and CAI manufacturer out there, can you prove that none of them work or do any good. And I dont care who you quote saying that they dont work cause I know that absolutely no drag racer, NASCAR Race, or any other pro Racer or street will have a stock air filter box under the hood. There will always be some sort of CAI or custom CAI which are the same thing under thier hoods.

 

LOL>. I’m sorry hank... I mixed up the results with the POWER WIRE (8-10HP) and the AIR RAM INDUCTION SYSTEM (10-12HP) Good catch though.... but honestly like normal you caught nothing! Its clear that it was a typo being as I typed it as 10-12HP gain in the paragraph above it...

NOTICE how Hank does not address me calling him out... notice how he accepts the FACT that I have pointed out he does NOT own a 3rd Gen Ram and has NO experience with them therefor making his advice WORTHLESS.... notice how he avoids that subject completely... You see hank you are the deceptive one, I have put EVERYTHING I have on the table... I do not hide from Facts like yourself, although you try to make it look like Im hiding somthing... I constantly prove I hide NOTHING... Fact, Hank hasn’t a clue what he is talking about 99% of the time, this is why he NEEDS to quote others in there findings... in most cases having NOTHING to do with the subject on hand.

Once again Hank... your out classed here. When you get a clue, please come back and attempt to hold an intelligent conversation without "CUT & PASTING" other peoples words. When you can hold an INFORMED conversation with us 3rd Gen Ram owners I will once again be proud of you.

I will go back above to CORRECT my TYPO.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

 

No matter what, a CAI will make other mods work better. As soon as you do the heads or intake, or exhaust, or any mod that will make your motor ask for more fuel. You better make it easier to get air. Most bull**** bolt on parts work best in conjunction with other parts. So if the only mod you were gonna do was the CAI, well it's no big deal but if you got a set of headers or a better cat-back system. Then I say you have to go for it to get the most out of your exhaust!!!!!!
Alex

 

I have a K&N CAI intake kit on my 3rd GEN ram, and upon installing it, I noticed a gain of 2 MPG immediately. I do believe they work, my overhead going down the high way I would never get above 15.4. On long trips now I average 21.5 at 65mph. But that is with a CAI AND a flowmaster 40 series cat back exhaust system.


Hank, the system I have works, and stayed right in line with the gains K&N said I could expect to get once installed.



AIR RAM

I have finally acquired a Mark 8 fan, how do I go about wiring it in to a switch or relay to kick on. Or do I wire it to the ignition so that it kicks on while the engine is on?

 

I have mine hooked up to an adjustable thermostat..... BUT you will need a 70AMP relay because the initial draw is just over 60 amps.. I got my from bosh... It will draw a continuous 45Amps so you will also need a 45 amp SLOW burn fuse... I think there is a company who makes thermostats for the Mark8 and allow you to hook up both the HIGH speed and slow speed ... I have the high speed hooked up and honestly... it would suck the lollypop out of a little kids hand if they stood to close to the grill...

It will require you to do some trimming on the shroud and the fan itself to get it all installed.... Not too difficult... but measure twice and cut once...

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

 

I'm skeptical on CAI, Today outside temp was 80 to 85 F, I run my truck for an hour, Parked and opened the hood while the engine was running, A lot of heat was comming off the block, I have heavy duty cooling on the 5.7 and the electric fan was not running, engine temp was normal. but this got me thinking, how is a CAI going to keep the out side air and the engine air from mixing togethier when two sources of air are so close togethier?

 

Insulation works very well keeping your induction system air cool and your underhood HOT air out... what you get is ambiant temperature air to your throttle body... Cant get much cooler than that.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

 

It is always hard to really find out if a 'mod' really works or not.

Wouldn't it be valuable if hundreds of people who vast experience would get together,
knock heads, and come up with a really good way to test things?

People from the staffs at Chrysler, Mercedes, Detroit Diesel, Catepillar, International Harvester, GM, Ford, Pacar, Kenworth - plus all the active and retired automotive engineers who are members of SAE?

Well, actually that has already happened!

The 18 wheel truck professionals at (TMC - Truck Maintenance Council)
and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
have come up with 4 different dependable tests to check out a mod.
Here a shortened version of the 4th test, which many consider the best:
----
Got a buddy with a Dodge Ram with the overhead trip computer?
(His truck does not have to be exactly the same as yours, but the closer the
better)

Since you are making a modification with hopes of getting better MPG
why not do a "before & after" test?

Do a 'before test' with both trucks
* you and your buddy fill up at the same gas station and put the same air
pressure in all tires
* Pick a highway without too much traffic and hopefully where the wind is a
head wind or tailwind (side winds mess things up)
* Your Ram and your buddy's Ram follow one another staying at least 6 vehicle
lengths apart
* talk to one another with cell phones or walkie talkies
* drive at the same speed
* reset the overhead computers at the same time
* drive at least long enough to burn up 2.5 gallons
* exit highway, turn around, and continue the test in opposite direction
(this is to partially cancel out wind direction)
* write down average MPG on overhead computers at end of run
and compare this to the gas pump numbers and odometer mileages.

After doing your modification
redo the test the same way as above,
hopefully at a time of day where the temperature is about the same as the
'before' test and the wind speed & direction is not a problem - which you
can check here:

http://tribunewx.wunderground.com/US...WindSpeed.html

Note that in the above weblink you can type in your zip code and get exact
wind, temperature and other weather data.

The value of your buddy's pickup being along on is that on this 'after' test
if his MPG is greatly different you should suspect something has gone wrong
like strong cross winds, a change in temperature, tire air pressure, etc.

If you want to test two trucks against one another that are already modified
like comparing 3.55 differential gears to 4.56 gears
or an underdrive pulley, syn versus dino oil, tire air pressure, thermostat,
SuperChips, etc......
you can modify this test slightly for even better accuracy.
Swap two tires from one truck to the other.
Now both trucks have the same 'average' tires.
Weigh the trucks and add weight to the lighter truck to make them even.

If you really want 'gold standard' accuracy that you can trust
(or if you are measuring a small effect like a thermostat)
then swap the mod over to your buddy's truck
and do the tests another time with your truck as the 'control'.

If you are presently thinking:

"Wow, who would be that careful for a lousy MPG test?"

then just think about a dragstrip
which will have:
carefully measured distances,
highly accurate timing trigger by light beams,
know its altitude,
have a weather station,
and have a computer program to 'adjust' results for weather conditions.

All this type of MPG test is doing is applying the same standards to MPG
that is expected when someone brags about their vehicle's ET or MPH in the
quartermile.

By doing a test this way you are doing a simplified version of a
SAE/TMC Type IV fuel economy test RP 1109.

Here the SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers and
TMC stands for Truck Maintenance Council which is a group
of professional 18 wheel truckers who have banded together to share
information. RP stands for recommended procedure.

Credit for inventing a 'reliable' MPG test like this goes to many, but
especially Claude Travis, known to his peers at TMC as "Mr. MPG,"
who has spent 37 years managing the operation, maintenance and testing
of heavy-duty, on-highway vehicles. Highly regarded for his exhaustive
research in the field of heavy-vehicle fuel-economy, he is principal of
Claude Travis and Associates, Fleet Consultants, Grand Rapids, Mich.

In the actual SAE/TMC type IV test they also take the temperature of the
fuel both before and after, because a gallon of fuel coming out of an
underground tank at 57 degrees F will expand/contract several percent
as it approaches that day's air temperature.

If you are interested in learning more about this
there are also SAE/TMC tests I, II and III
and no doubt someday an even better test V will be invented.

 

For 'performance' type mods of acceleration:
----
It would be easy to do a RELIABLE test of any two air intakes at the
dragstrip.

The way to do it would be to get two nearly identical trucks. They don't
have to be exactly identical but the closer the better.

The two trucks would line up against each other at least 4 times and
preferably 8 or more.

The first half of the runs one truck would have the air intake
and the other would have the stock air intake. After each pass
the drivers swap trucks. Then for the second half of the passes
the two trucks would swap intakes.

In making comparisons it is better to look at terminal speed rather than ET,
but subtracting 60 foot times from ET and comparing those is worthwhile too.

If the air intake really makes a average gain in terminal speed on both trucks
when installed that is pretty reasonable proof.

You might ask yourself:
Why doesn't each air intake maker hire an independent lab to do this and
verify that their intake is superior?

If you do 20 runs instead of 8,
and if the air intake makes a gain in terminal speed on 19 of those 20 runs,
then you are approaching the kind of proof scientists and MD's are supposed to
have before they 'publish' a fact in a magazine.

They wouldn't even have to hire a 'lab'.
Two of the following 'straight shooting' automotive writers (James Dulley,
Dan Neil, Steve Dulich, Rick Ehrenberg) have records that prove their
opinions can't be bought and could probably be paid a nominal
fee & travel expenses to face off against one another in a test.

A side benefit of the above test is that you could also settle bets as to
which of the two drivers was better, which can be fun. Killing two birds with
the same stone, so to speak.

 

That would be a good test to test the performance but the only problem is that you have 2 different drivers doing the test against each other. You could take the worst driver and stick him/her in the best and fastest car/truck you can find and take the best driver you can find and put them in the same truck and the better of the two drivers would win everytime. There are more things involved with driving at the strip than just the mods on the vehical. Why do you think even at pro drag races when cars with the exact same hp and engine mods and torque go up against one another they both dont tie each time and one will usually end up loosing by like 1-5 car lengths? A better test would be to have the same driver run 5+ runs stock and average the speeds, then run 5+ runs with one mod and average the speeds, and then swap that mod for the other mod of the same style and run another 5+ runs and average the speeds.