What can I say? I dont know if I should feel priviledged or be mad as hell. I have about 6000 miles with the OEM 20's and my rotors are warped. I can feel it when I brake. Before with the stock 17's nothing. I think it has to do with the bigger wheels and the little disks. I guess thats the price for looks.

 

mine does that too but im going to wait till my breaks are low before changing them but mine is at 96k and its 03

 

they all do that, rotors are cheap...and easy to change.

 

So you think that even with the 17's, it would have warped.

 

There are two common reasons that rotors warp.

1) Wheel lugs get overtightened or tightened unevenly.
2) Rotors are cooled off too quickly after being hot. Good example is running through a puddle on a nice hot day after some braking.

I don't think switching from 17's to 20's is the problem. Now, if the 20's overtightened or unevenly tightened when they were put on...

 

and another common cause......riding the brakes...believe it or not it'll do it, too much heat on the surface where it dissapates quicker than inside the rotor disc and when they finally cool they are warped.

 

Damn shop. They put them on with the damn air gun. I'll bet that did it.

 

an impact wrench is fine for installing wheels as long as the tech used a torque stick. Did you watch them install the wheels? A torque stick looks like an extension but they are colour coded to designate the torque spec. I am not 100% sure,but I think he should have used a white torque stick

 

1) No air tools.
2) Use a torque wrench.
3) 115ft-lbs MAX..

 

I use an air wrench with a torque stick all the time. I used to follow it up a hand torque wrench just to make sure they were tightened evenly and to the correct torque--I use a 100 lbs torque stick since the DC specs 95 ft/lbs for 1500s. After a while I gave up on the hand wrench because the air gun with the torque stick was perfect every time.