Remove that plastic cover and you can ice the intake easily.

 

I have removed the cover simply because I like to see an engine when I raise the hood, but if I iced the intake I would hesitate to claim it as a stock time. Most people probably find that ridiculous, but for one thing I feel like being so strict on myself about stuff like that gives me a credibility few can claim. Now, I will try using a pump up sprayer with rubbing alcohol to cool the engine and radiator down, because that can't cool anything much below ambient temperature. It's really just a time saver by reducing the wait for cooldown between runs.

 

oh come on just bust out some nitrous lol

 

I have not had my 09 to the track, good thing cause I don’t think I know how to drive this thing to its potential yet. I have been using my stopwatch and practicing from dead stops to 60. Now, before anyone beats me up for the inherent inaccuracies of this technique – Yes I agree. I am just sharing my experiences fooling around (read having fun). My goal was trying different things in hopes of seeing *relative* improvements. Initially, my 0 to 60 times were 8 seconds or worse! After getting the stopwatch thing more consistent and running up against the torque converter a bit my best 0 to 60 times are now hovering right at 7 to 7.3 seconds. I have yet to get below 7 seconds but I am a totally stock 4x4 and my elevation here is 7000ft- I have no idea how that might translate to sea level. So far, I have just let the auto shift and I have not noticed ANY gains by going to the Tow/Haul mode. Turning ESP off may have helped a little but not much so now it’s likely that I have reached the limits of my driving ability, the truck, or both. Haven’t tried using the manual shift thing yet ether. Will have true duals and intake soon, anxious to see how much my times might improve. So far the only 2 good races I have had were with an Infinity ES and an Accura TL S. I eased past the ES soundly but the Accura was a very close race, I barely edged him out.

 

Manual shift will indeed make a difference. Remember, you get access to an entire extra gear when you shift manually. It'll mess you up at first, because the difference between 2nd and 3rd in manual mode is so small. 2nd is over in less than 2 seconds so you have to be ready. What's really happening is that the computer is giving you access to 2nd prime, which has not been available with stock programming before while upshifting. 2nd prime is called 3rd in manual mode, 3rd is called 4th, etc. 2nd prime bridges some of the gap between regular 2nd gear and 3rd (4th when you're shifting manually) and keeps engine rpm from dropping as far as it would have shifting automatically, which in turn keeps rpm up where the engine makes more power.

 

Oh, I just noticed you have a 4wd. In that case, run it in 4 high. If you're gonna pay the weight penalty of having 4wd, you might as well gain something from it. Run it up against the converter just as hard as you can before it starts creeping through the brakes, snap your foot off the brake pedal and whack it. It'll get moving in a hurry.

 

Absolutely I need to try the manaul shift thing then, thanks. If I am chewing gum the stopwatch and manual shift thing might be overload....better ditch the gum I guess. On the 4x4 thing, I wonder if anyone knows just how much more weight that adds, I havent any idea.

 

What RPM do you shift up at in manual, does it vary for you by gear? Do you just listen or watch the tach?

 

I think it was 350 or 400 lbs or so.

 

Thanks, sounds reasonable I guess. I think I once read where every 100lbs added another .1 seconds (or something like that) to your time.