i personally would stick with well known programmers such as superchips and diablo. they provide tech support and easy to use instructions.

 

These are manufactured "power wires", which tricks the ecu into think its 22 degrees cooler @ you intake and slashing you a bit more fuel at WOT (open vs closed loop). There is nothing wrong with this mod, but don't pay more than $20 bucks for it. go to the 3rd gen section, due a search....literally 100's of post about power wires,... weedahoe just posted a DYI video. Nice truck and welcome to the forum.

 

Greetings- Noticed the wife's 09' is at 30K and I needed an oil filter for a DIY oil change. At Dodge they said the top row of spark plugs need change at 30K, so add $52 for the spark plugs to the $6 for the filter. Problem, note manual states change top row at every 48K and side row at every 98K. So, bought them early and decided to look at how to change them - nothing. No instruction in the manual or anywhere on how to do it on the net. Does anybody have directions on how to change the plugs??? Chris

I called the stealer, and they said they would charge $149 to change since I bought the plugs, and they would do the oil for $99.

 

Interesting... my 09 manual says 30K (50K km) for the 5.7L. Maintenance schedule in the 09 service manual mirrors those numbers. Thought you might be referring to the 4.7L, which employs standard plugs under the coils and premium plugs below. However, according to the manuals, they're changed out at 30K (50K km) and 102K (170K km) respectively.

???

 

I looked at the Dodge.com online maintenance book, it says as I stated. The one in the truck says what you wrote. Anyway, do you know where to get online instructions on changing them? Chris

 

99 for a oil change, call them back and ask if that includes a reach around.

 

I am surprised that I haven't heard of more people taking advantage of the lifetime oil change that my dealer offered. I have bought 3 new cars over the last 3 years and have added the lifetime oil change on every vehicle and it has been so simple and they also take care of all the other routine checks for you. It even includes a wash and detail of the interior. I am already two oil changes into my 09 Ram and I am 4 oil changes from it paying for itself.

 

130 ft/lb for 1500's
135 ft/lb for 2500/3500 single-rear wheel models
145 ft/lb for 3500 dual rear wheel models

This is out of my 2010 User(printed) guide.

 

Changed out a rear axle shaft in my 2009 Ram Sport Crew Cab.
dodgetruckparts.com got the shaft to me in about two weeks. They need to learn what available means. They also told me it wouldn't come with studs. So $30 for studs and when it showed up, it had the studs pressed in it and a bag with the extra studs I ordered.

Pretty straight forward.
Get the truck on stands.
Remove the 13mm bolts on the diff cover. 12 of them.
Whack the cover with a rubber hammer to break the rtv seal and let the fluid drain into a pan.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the two 21mm bolts for the caliper mounting bracket and remove the caliper assembly.
Pull off the rotor.
Remove the 8mm bolt/pin for the cross shaft in the carrier.
Remove the cross shaft. It should just push out. This is also why I left one wheel on, so that it was easy to turn the carrier to get to everything.
Push the axle shaft in and the C clip will fall off of the end of the shaft. You may have to use your finger or a pick if yours is gummed up a bit.
Pull the shaft out while taking care not to mess up the axle seals with the c clip groove.
Put in the new shaft. I put a little gear oil on the shaft to help protect the seal.
Put the c clip on and push the shaft out to hold it in.
Put the cross shaft back in.
Put the 8mm bolt/pin back in the carrier to hold the cross shaft.
Clean all the of the old rtv off of the housing and the cover. All of it. And then clean any oil etc off of the mating surfaces. I like to use a wire wheel. I put rags over everything that I don't want a bunch of junk in.
Use the appropriate oil resistant rtv and put a bead on both surfaces and allow them both to tack up.
While this was happening, I put the rotor, caliper assembly, and both 21mm bolts back in.
Put your diff cover back on with the 12 13mm bolts.
I like to let the rtv cure for a while before I make it hold oil.
Fill with fluid and limited slip additive.
Put your wheel back on and get your truck on the ground.

One thing. I should have just pulled the sway bar bolts and gotten it out of my way.

Also, it was about $80 for the right synthetic fluid and additive. Ouch.


Bent Shaft

21mm caliper assembly bolts

Cross Shaft retention pin/bolt

Diff cover motivator

Back on the road.

 

Have an 09 1500 4x4 Big Horn and will be installing a Pro Comp leveling kit next month in order to fit 305/55/20 Pro Comps on Moto Metal 951s.

Discount Tires told me all I need is a 2.5" leveling kit up front and 1.5" in the rear.

4 Wheel Parts told me I need the same but also need to put new shocks on the rear.

After reading several forums, I cannot find anything saying I need new shocks just for a simple leveling kit. Truck has 10,200 miles on it and is basically still new. Anyone out there who knows the truth, please chime in. Thanks.