Oil
Last edited by bountyhunter; Mar 28, 2009 at 12:11 PM.
Everybody seems to say Mobil 1 is the way to go, but I have no idea. I used Mobil 1 and about fell over when I found out how much it costs. But I guess since I have to change it half as often, it pays for itself.
I've also been reading up on Amsoil and Purple Royal. I've read claims that if you use Purple Royal for everything (oil, tranny, etc..) it will give you 10HP gain, I can't help but LOL when I hear that
Apparently professional racers use Purple Royal.
I've also been reading up on Amsoil and Purple Royal. I've read claims that if you use Purple Royal for everything (oil, tranny, etc..) it will give you 10HP gain, I can't help but LOL when I hear that
Apparently professional racers use Purple Royal.
According to the maintenance schedule, oil changes are required at 6000 mile increments, or when the truck tells you too. But for sure at every 6000 mile service regardless. How would that affect the warranty if you can go more than 6000 miles before the oil needs changing? I do not want any warranty issues. Been there and done that.
Synthetics are still petroleum based but have been engineered with additives and uses a different "part" of the oil base. They don't varnish as easy and they hold up better to heat and shear. Contaminants from water and fuel are caustic to metals. Long story short, for consistant longevity of the motor synthetic is best. But if plan on keeping a strict schedule any how on changing your oil, just use a good brand of oil. They all meet the minimum standard, but . . .
Royal purple makes that claim and for most part is accurate. It gives more rear wheel horsepower but doesn't really create more in the motor. Makes the moving parts move easier there by using less of the available horsepower to just move the parts.
All the myths of synthetic are just that, myths. They are thinner and cause leaks, they don't eat gaskets and cause leaks. Because of the detergents in them being superior they just clean out what was causing the leaks. So I would say if you put it, stick with it. If you have 100 thousand miles, it still is fine but keep in mind it could clean the parts and "make" noise and "make" leaks.
The other thing is that miles should not be the deciding factor to change your oil. You should really change it before one year and when the oil looks or is getting dirty. If you drive in harsh dirty environments, don't let it warm up before driving and drive it rough, you may have to change it much sooner.
Bottom line, it's up to you. I use synthetic. Mobile 1 seems to be the norm and manufacturers use it the most. I tend to trust there judgement. Valvoline would be a close second.
Royal purple makes that claim and for most part is accurate. It gives more rear wheel horsepower but doesn't really create more in the motor. Makes the moving parts move easier there by using less of the available horsepower to just move the parts.
All the myths of synthetic are just that, myths. They are thinner and cause leaks, they don't eat gaskets and cause leaks. Because of the detergents in them being superior they just clean out what was causing the leaks. So I would say if you put it, stick with it. If you have 100 thousand miles, it still is fine but keep in mind it could clean the parts and "make" noise and "make" leaks.
The other thing is that miles should not be the deciding factor to change your oil. You should really change it before one year and when the oil looks or is getting dirty. If you drive in harsh dirty environments, don't let it warm up before driving and drive it rough, you may have to change it much sooner.
Bottom line, it's up to you. I use synthetic. Mobile 1 seems to be the norm and manufacturers use it the most. I tend to trust there judgement. Valvoline would be a close second.
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Synthetics are still petroleum based but have been engineered with additives and uses a different "part" of the oil base. They don't varnish as easy and they hold up better to heat and shear. Contaminants from water and fuel are caustic to metals. Long story short, for consistant longevity of the motor synthetic is best. But if plan on keeping a strict schedule any how on changing your oil, just use a good brand of oil. They all meet the minimum standard, but . . .
Royal purple makes that claim and for most part is accurate. It gives more rear wheel horsepower but doesn't really create more in the motor. Makes the moving parts move easier there by using less of the available horsepower to just move the parts.
All the myths of synthetic are just that, myths. They are thinner and cause leaks, they don't eat gaskets and cause leaks. Because of the detergents in them being superior they just clean out what was causing the leaks. So I would say if you put it, stick with it. If you have 100 thousand miles, it still is fine but keep in mind it could clean the parts and "make" noise and "make" leaks.
The other thing is that miles should not be the deciding factor to change your oil. You should really change it before one year and when the oil looks or is getting dirty. If you drive in harsh dirty environments, don't let it warm up before driving and drive it rough, you may have to change it much sooner.
Bottom line, it's up to you. I use synthetic. Mobile 1 seems to be the norm and manufacturers use it the most. I tend to trust there judgement. Valvoline would be a close second.
Royal purple makes that claim and for most part is accurate. It gives more rear wheel horsepower but doesn't really create more in the motor. Makes the moving parts move easier there by using less of the available horsepower to just move the parts.
All the myths of synthetic are just that, myths. They are thinner and cause leaks, they don't eat gaskets and cause leaks. Because of the detergents in them being superior they just clean out what was causing the leaks. So I would say if you put it, stick with it. If you have 100 thousand miles, it still is fine but keep in mind it could clean the parts and "make" noise and "make" leaks.
The other thing is that miles should not be the deciding factor to change your oil. You should really change it before one year and when the oil looks or is getting dirty. If you drive in harsh dirty environments, don't let it warm up before driving and drive it rough, you may have to change it much sooner.
Bottom line, it's up to you. I use synthetic. Mobile 1 seems to be the norm and manufacturers use it the most. I tend to trust there judgement. Valvoline would be a close second.
I intend to run a bypass filter with full synthetic and extend my oil changes based on oil analysis.
People falsely believe that a manufacturer can deny a warranty based on the product you use or the time it is used for. In fact a manufacturer must prove that the product or method is what actually caused the problem. Your maintenance schedule is a recommendation, it is not a warranty requirement.
If anyone wants me to paste the exact section of the Magnuson-Moss that spells this out, just say so.
People falsely believe that a manufacturer can deny a warranty based on the product you use or the time it is used for. In fact a manufacturer must prove that the product or method is what actually caused the problem. Your maintenance schedule is a recommendation, it is not a warranty requirement.
If anyone wants me to paste the exact section of the Magnuson-Moss that spells this out, just say so.
I intend to run a bypass filter with full synthetic and extend my oil changes based on oil analysis.
People falsely believe that a manufacturer can deny a warranty based on the product you use or the time it is used for. In fact a manufacturer must prove that the product or method is what actually caused the problem. Your maintenance schedule is a recommendation, it is not a warranty requirement.
If anyone wants me to paste the exact section of the Magnuson-Moss that spells this out, just say so.
People falsely believe that a manufacturer can deny a warranty based on the product you use or the time it is used for. In fact a manufacturer must prove that the product or method is what actually caused the problem. Your maintenance schedule is a recommendation, it is not a warranty requirement.
If anyone wants me to paste the exact section of the Magnuson-Moss that spells this out, just say so.
This is true, but the dealer can still give you a hard time!



