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ESP/BAS Reset?

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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by oldjeep
I think you over estimate how much teh dealer is going to look into this. Take it in, find out which wheel sensor it is and they will likely replace it with no questions asked. Bad wheel sensors are a common problem - believe me I know.
I'm not overestimating anything, if the sensor was damaged by installing the axle when swapping gears that will be pretty obvious and they may try to find out why its damaged so it doesnt turn into a comeback.

Car companies do not like to pay for your modifications or the damage you do installing them, and these days its even worse. There are some cool dealers out there that will welcome the work and turn a blind eye, but there are also some that are not so nice when you start swapping drivetrain parts and try to get it fixed under warranty.

There is only three things it can be if it all started with the gear swap, sensor or tone wheel was damaged, wiring was damaged (or unplugged) or there is something in the ABS that thinks the mph/rpm is off. My guess would be wheel sensors but until he gets the codes who knows.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 05Dakotaho
Any chance you could reveal the name of the shop so the rest of us will know who to avoid?
4 Wheel Parts in San Antonio. I know they're a little pricey compared to the local shops, but I went with them for the warranty and the fact that they're a national chain. It's possible that I'll be moving in the fall, so I didn't want the headache of dealing long distance with any kind of claim if something went wrong.

The ESP light is still on, and I plan on taking it into the dealer mid-March (traveling most of the beginning of the month). The dealer I use is pretty cool and if it's something they need to replace they'll do it and just charge me without freaking out and voiding my warranty, which I don't mind.

The truck will have to go somewhere to get checked out though. I'm pretty sure that something is wrong in the rear housing. I know aftermarket gears are a little louder than the OEM versions, but this set sounds just too funny. For example, when running 35 or 40 MPH at around 1500RPM and with your foot slightly on the gas, there's a very loud humming noise. So loud in fact that it isn't covered up my the Mufflex 14. The higher the speed the humming zone moves up slightly in the RPM range. Give it a little more gas or take your foot off of the gas and the humming immediately stops. I know that if take the problem back to 4 Wheel Parts first, then they'll try to convince me that the issue can be resolved with 24" rims and 35 mudders or something. They'll never admit they don't know what they're doing on the 4th Gen RAMs.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 07:07 AM
  #23  
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Did they tell you how to break in the gears, or just send you down the road?

From Randys Ring and Pinion
After driving the first 15 to 20 miles it is best to stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Keep the vehicle at speeds below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. I also recommend putting at least 500 miles on the new gear set before heavy use or towing. During the first 45 miles of towing it helps to go about 15 miles at a time before stopping to let the differential cool for 15 minutes before continuing. This is necessary because not all of the gear tooth is making contact until it is heavily loaded. When towing, the teeth flex to contact completely, and cause the previously unloaded portion of the teeth to touch and work harden.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #24  
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They told me about the drive for 20 miles then let it cool for an hour. Which they had me do three times. They also mentioned the 500 miles before towing. However, they didn't say anything on the below 60MPH.

I'll try to get a video of the sound this weekend and post up. It's not horrible, but you do notice it's there, even with the Mufflex 14. I can only imagine what someone would think that had kept the stock exhaust and then had a sound like that to deal with.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #25  
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Might be a good idea to pull the plug and check the gear oil level too.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #26  
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And so the saga continues. Now the shop is saying that the only thing that will fix the ESP issue is that $500 Superchips programmer to flash the computer. I said oh, just like you swore that the speedo was going to be 10MPH off without it? They didn't have an answer, but still think the gears are tied into the computer somehow.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:39 PM
  #27  
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Hmm - continue screwing around with a bunch of monkeys, or take it to the dealer. Tough choice
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:46 PM
  #28  
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If it is the reflash to tell the computer what axle ratio is installed, the dealer may not be able to help you since the 4.10 ratio is not a stock option. I don't know but you can call any dealer and ask.

Why can't the shop that did the work and has the programmer use it on your truck. Do they not want to break the package?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #29  
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Someone on this forum had 4.56 gears installed and I don't believe there were any problems. Just take it to the dealer and don't mention the gear change. They most likely won't find out and if they do.....BFD
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #30  
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I'm almost there Jeep. I'd like to get this taken care of and move on to the next mod, a Cold Air Intake.

Pedro, the RAMs did come with 4.10s from the factory. The 1500s have 4.10s in the R/T model, and 4.10s are an option on the new 2010 HD trucks. I asked them as well about the reflash, that if it did work, then every time I took it to the dealer and had to put the stock flash back in, wouldn't it trip the ESP problem again? They didn't have an answer for that one either. As for a "free" flash to fix the problem, they didn't offer, but as hard as they're pushing the dusty Superchips programmer that's been on their shelf for who knows how long, I bet they'd be unwilling to pop it open to help me out in any way.
 

Last edited by War Horse; Mar 8, 2010 at 04:06 PM.
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