I have had the same problem for awhile now. Just had the recall done today which fixes the front strap on the fuel tank that comes loose and the sound has gone away. Thinking maybe it was rattling but will keep checking to see if the noise comes back.

 

So I 'had' this problem, I fixed this problem, and I documented my journey. I tend to disagree with the cam phaser as the source of the noise, but I am not 100% positive. Re guarding the above quote - It is my understanding that a 'limiter block' is ONLY added to the cam phaser if you are upgrading the cam shaft to a performance version with longer lift duration. A stock phaser will NOT have the limiter block inside. I also already tossed my old phaser would love to have confirmation on whats inside the old one, but I can say this - I did NOT add a limiter block to my new phaser and the truck runs great/same as before. Enjoy the video - sorry looking back I'm a bit long winded.

 

I can tell you this. Of the three Ram 1500s I know of that had this symptom, the problem was NOT solved until the cam phaser was finally replaced.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Now at: 009390 miles.

 

Hi Dusty48,
I read the monster 27 pages of this thread over 9 months ago now - can you or someone confirm that the tensioner was the only part change and did NOT fix the problem? I think its wroth exploring as changing just the tension would be like $50 in parts, gaskets, and new radiator fluid + significantly easier job. Once you pull that oil tube bolt out the job explodes into next level difficulty. Some more info from my video post:

The old tensioner seemed not as firm as the new one. The new and old timing chain seemed identical in terms of link bending and handling ( there was no binding or signs of wear on the old chain). The cam phasers seemed identical other than the never ending oil stream from the old one. It should be noted that I tried to open the old cam phaser but my star/torx bit broke off in the phaser bolt! Looking back I should have been more aggressive at getting inside to inspect for problems. Perhaps that crazy looking spring inside failed in some way.

Other thought is - Can/should you change the phaser without pulling the oil pump. This would mean using the old guide, crank sprocket, and chain.

 

Confirmed and detailed in post #146. I replaced the tensioner, guide and chain. The nuisance cacophony returned in very short order.

You can indeed change the phaser without disturbing the oil pump. However, and depending on the truck's mileage, I'd be tempted to change out the lot (tensioner, guide, chain and pump) once you're into it.

 

how much did this fix cost you I have them same truck with the same problem

 

My 2010 has this issue now. I’m wondering if just disabling the MDS with my tuner would be an ok solution? Or if it will still cause issues inside the motor. I think I might try to replace the timing chain, tension, guide and phaser one of these days, but until funds are available, could turning MDS off save anymore wear and tear?

 

First let’s define the noise we are discussing. Turn off the radio, roll down the windows. Leave the MDS activated. Drive slowly on a quiet flat side road, preferably one along a fence or wall. As long as the engine is not under load, somewhere around 2000 rpm’s the noise will start. It sounds like a baseball card in a bicycle wheel. If you turn off the MDS while the sound is occurring the ticking will stop instantly it will also stop if you accelerate hard or the rpms drop low enough.

At this point I’m pretty certain of the cause. It has to do with the programming that retards the timing under the above described driving conditions. I’ve had a scanner hooked up and watched it happen as the timing gets retarded. That’s why turning off the MDS stops the noise. The timing doesn’t get retarded as far when it’s off. That’s also why replacing the cam phaser solves the problem. Now the one thing that I have also read is that it might not actually be the cam phaser itself causing the problem but rather a worn key in the key way that holds the phaser in place. I’m betting that anyone who solved this by replacing the cam phaser also replaced the key as well. So it might be possible to fix the problem by somehow shimming the key if it’s even accessible without removing the phaser. The good thing is that other than being an annoying sound it’s not likely to do any real damage to the engine imho. Now the MDS solenoid does need to be replaced imho. I believe that screen can possibly cause a lifter to not get enough oil and ruin the camshaft.


Old one in top picture is missing screen because plastic got brittle. Notice the replacement uses a stainless screen with no plastic.

 

You're making ref to a MDS solenoid but posting pics of cam phaser oil control valves (OCV). Notwithstanding, and as I'd iterated way back in this thread, I replaced the OCV on the beast @ 60K miles. There were bits and pieces of the screen missing on the OE OCV. The replacement (updated) part incorporated a permeable foil as depicted in your pics.

Ironically, and concurrent with my recent endeavour to finally replace the cam phaser, I discover that the cam is toast with a little less than 88k miles on the clock. Repair options are limited in my neck of the woods but ultimately I decide to replace the engine. However, and as of late, getting a long block from FCA is a gong show! Initially advised that it'd be a couple of weeks, then a couple of months. More recently I'm told that it could be the end of the summer to get a replacement engine. Why? Here's my theory: FCA cant keep up with demand for replacement 5.7 Hemi engines to fix trucks wherein their engines are eating their valve trains. The dealer/s will play dumb about this debacle and will hand ya worthless platitudes.

Anyhow... any endearment I had for the half-ton beast is long gone. She's been sold off (as is) down the road. Done with Hemi engines - time for something with a rep for longevity...