I have been in the car stereo biz for a while and worked for sound advice (owned by tweeter and high fi) which if you dont know sells very premium equipment. Keep in mind that your talking lots of money when you say best. The JLW7 series is hands down the best sub on the planet. They are undeniably the best sound quality sub made when run and boxed properly (1" mdf)While distortion from a bad amp or poor tuning will cook any speaker sheer power alone will not do it. We used to take JLw7's and plug them into the wall (for those of you that dont know AC outlets are a 60hz sine wave) to see how long it took to blow one up. Our box gave out first (3/4" mdf, learned to use 1" like the instructions say here) and then our ears, we didnt blkow the sub. JL amps are also some of the very best. They are clean powerful and regulated, which means same power at different voltages. Some people will tell you regulated means that you dont need a cap but if you get premium equipment set it up right. IF you want the history on JL amps they are made by the same designer that made rockford, PPI, Xtant, and i think even soundstream good in there day. If you look at these companies you will notice that all of them fell of to some point when he left each of them respectively. Keep in mind these suggestions are for quality and SPL. IF you just want to be lound you can go with much lower quality of equipment just make sure you buy the extended better coverage warranty. Finally the difference between dual and single voice coils is this. Dual voice coils allow more versatility in ohm load for the amp as they can be wired two different ways. A sub with dual 4 ohm coils can be wired in parallel for 2 ohms or series for 8. This makes it easier to reach the optimum level for your amp. However a single voice coil is more efficient, although only very slightly (some people may not even notice) When selecting resistnace(ohms) remember a few things. the lower the resistance the power you get out of the amp but dont go below what your amp says or you will blow it up. Under some very specific conditions you can go lower but you really have to know what you're doing and i strongly recomend you dont do it. Also the lower the resistance of the coil the more efficient the sub is and the more dampening factor the amp has. (dampening factor is how well the amp controls the speaker and its ability to change the speaker direction quickly) This results in harder,deeper hits. Combine this with a capacitor for ultimate control. However lower ohm loads reult in more distortion of the signal. IN the sub range (usually 30-90hz) this is often unnoticeable, depending on the amp. Also lower resistance setting means the amp draws more current which taken to the extreme can wreak havoc on an electrical system. Finally always try to run your subs at the maximum power rating out of a clean amp. Contrary to common belief speakers rarely blow from over powering. They often blow from distortion from people trying to push their amps too hard or using the worng size box. The amp gain is not a volume **** it is for matching to the input voltage from the head unit RCAs. A great rule of thumb when purchasing an amp is that retail price should be atleast a dollar per watt, closer to 1.5 dollars for lower wattage and of course always buy name brand. I hpoe this post helps everyone and that i didnt make anyone mad for typing too much. Good luck. [8D]

 

Wow...lol

JL is NOT god...period. I'll put my RE Audio XXX OR An Adire Audio Brahma up against a w7 ANY day of the week. They also cost a FRACTION of the price. The w7 is a great sub not doubt...but you need to catch up on some stuff and get your head out of the over-priced mainstream clouds.

Read up the previous pages of my replies

Few tech papers of the XBL^2 technology:
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/XBL2TechPaper.pdf
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/XBL2DetailsPaper.pdf

As well as TC sounds releasing the new LMT motor topology (Linear Motor Technology)
RE Audio will be releasing a new sub VERY shortly that will MURDER a w7 in ALL aspects...including SQ and Linear Output.
Wanna see a vid of just s little bit of what it can do? http://www.realmofexcursion.com/vide...totype12.1.wmv

As far as the rest of that huge paragraph...if people need something specific they can check out
www.bcae1.com
www.12volt.com



NG

 

I've always been please with kicker and fosgate subs.
The new alpine subs are pretty tight though. Eat alot of power and ya don't wanna port em but if you like rock, they are great. If rap is your bag, go with fosgates.
I ended up going with rockford fosgate this time around just because of the box. The alpine was tight but the fosgate pounded.
I'm just sportin one 12" now cuz I'm gettin old.

 

Wow, completely incorrect use of incorrect sterotypes...you obviously have no clue what you're talking about, at least from a technical standpoint.

NG

 

actually jl w7 r horrible, i cant tell u how many of those things came back to hte store i work at because they were blown under normal rms....out of all the w series that jl puts out i personally am most satisfied with the w6's. another thing for all u ppl with ported boxes, give vented boxes a try and i think ull be very satisfied. i currently have 2 audiobahn aw1206t's in a vented custom enclosure ( bos is stock, i just made a front facia to make it fit in the trunk for that cheap custom look.....because im not rich) and those boys hit HARD and LOW but its just a suggestion

 

Ported and vented are the same thing.

Also, those Audiopawns...are....a start (like you said...you're not rich). But it's much cheaper do design (or even have me design) a custom ported enclosure and build it yourself than buy anything pre-fab. It will also sound a million times better. I design (and build) anything custom you can dream of, if you ever need any help with custom enclosure designs...hit me up.

Also slakr, you seem like a good guy...head on over to www.caraudio.com ->forums. My username is the same there...and you can look to what will blow those audiopahn's out of the water for near the same price

Later...

NG

 

AGREED!

 

actually ill take u up on that ng but with the deepest respect in MOST cases they rnt the same at all. as someone who built (not custom) but basic boxes for a living there are obvious differences between them. keep in mind im talkin basic boxes that r prefabbed so i do know where ur comin from........in prefabbed ported boxes the majority of ports used a plastic inserts that only go about 5 to 6 inches into the box...... a vent goes to within 3 inches of the back of the box and is part of the box so more air is forced out of a more stable opening allowing more boom for the buck but i know what u meant, im just clearing this up for the regulars that dont live this stuff.

 

WRONG!

...and...

Your just confusing the type...
A ported box and a vented box are one in the same, your just associating each with a SPECIFIC type of port/vent. You are associating Slot ports with the name "vented", and PVC/Aero-ports with the name "ported"...when in reality...it doesn't matter either way Just two different ways of saying the same thing!

NG

 

if u say so ng