I had engine light on, for 2 months, told okay to drive, as it was a smog sensor. This week, while going 60-70mph, on freeway, in 1 hour, the car suddenly whined like an ambulance siren under front half of car. The trans temp light came on and I pulled off freeway quick. I stopped, then at that green light the car didn't want to move forward. There was no more whine. Then I put it in neutral, then in drive and it went forward fine. I went to nearest car place (unnamed lube stop) and they did have a dip stick for my 'special' trans. Fluid gray . 15-20 minutes later, (cooled down) they pulled code P0420, no P0218. This whine usually happened intermittently, when car on road for long drive time but not this bad, then went away when slowed down, no temp light ever, no coolant overheating i.e. past half way on gauge. This time, I waited for it to cool down, no work done, and went back on freeway, slowly, to critical appointment. After, I went 20 miles further -no choice, to that very well known trans shop that was currently offering free diagnostic service, I learned it was "you get what you pay for" type. After 28 hours of having my car, and taking it on a 39 mile test drive, -insane idea according to common sense and (Dodge Forum's) manual instructions for trans inspections. They told me the whine was wheel bearings ($689.) AND the transmission would cost ($989.) to repair, because of the (repeated) code P0420 and added the code P0218, only because I told them the trans temp light came on. I never had wheel-bearings problems, but I told them about whining noise. I would go to wheel shop for that and never ask for a wheel check at a trans shop. BUT NO trans codes at all given! Suspicious, I leave with no work allowed to be done! I take my car to the three guys we all know and love, and they (not a trans shop) confirmed ONLY trans codes P0700 and P161B exist, NO wheel bearing issues, NO catalytic converter codes, NO temp codes. I do have them clean my battery posts as I saw that one had corrosion on it. Then I thought, it's worth a try, so I also asked them to completely disconnect it and wait about 30 minutes, then reconnect. Still, only the 2 trans codes came up, no others, so I figure trans has a real problem. I take my 2007 Caliber SXT 2.0 to unnamed whole car automotive repair not a dealer! They actually do a regular trans service on my 'dealer service only' trans for a fair market price, with no insane price for 'special fluid,' just $21. total extra for an additional supplemental additive. Finally, on the long drive back, I had no whine, no engine light, no overheating, no trans temp light, at 60-70 mph on freeway, it purrs like a kitten, 90+ mile trip one way. How long will it be before I can relax and not worry about returning codes? What could have been going on with cat converter? What should I look forward to for next service at 83700K? No service/warranties left now. Literally, everything else checks out fine, with one exception. I still love my Caliber, even if i can't get the beverage cooler door open at all.

 

What fluid did they use? And what additive? The correct fluid is green and quite viscous.

$29 @ qt the last time I checked.

The bad battery connection could have been causing the erratic codes.

Regardless, glad your on the road again. I'll be driving the wife's on my 80 mile a day round trip this week since I have my trailer hooked to my Ram.

 

At work, but I will ask them and reply again. Also, as of 2 days ago, the 'special' transmission fluid is 13.99 qt. at the dealership in either Temecula, or Perris, Ca. They do sell it to the public at least. The Midas shop I called to get info from, quoted this price and location, "closest to us" when they called me back regarding the cost of a catalytic converter should I really need one, and the cost of servicing the transmission at the dealership. This was before they knew it was a dealer only transmission set up. No dip stick, special fluid, no outside, accessible filter, etc. Servicing was not an option, it was $100. for a diagnostic test. (Understandable to a point). The converter was $749. from dealer and $100. to install it at that Midas. The local Pep Boys manager quoted $799. installed. I think it was to get the business, with a deep discount on labor. It is a bolt-in converter on my model 2.0L, so no welding, per his quote.
I will get back to you later re the supplemental fluid content.

 

I did call and ask about the fluid. Couldn't get the name of the additive out of Matt, the manager, but I didn't try that hard since I wanted the explanation more and he was very busy. He told me that the supplemental fluid (1 qt. for $21.), is added to totally blend with the base/universal trans fluid to meet Dodge specs for only Dodge, as they do with an additive for only Toyota and a separate additive for only Honda. He didn't mention the dealer-only transmission type that I have, but that may be because he doesn't know that I know about that, keeping it all in layman's terms. He did say that if he didn't do that he would have to use the dealer trans fluid and they charge $20-$30. per qt. for it. The Midas quote of $13.99 per qt. in Perris or Temecula's Dodge dealerships sounds like a good buy to stock up on. I don't think that was a wholesale quote since Midas did tell me I could go get it and they would put it in. Same for the catalytic converter price only quote $749. I asked about that reducing a warranty if I bought it and he said no, it wouldn't at their shop. I am in California and the transmission service was done in Riverside County. Ramona Tire and Automotive on Menlo Ave. in Hemet, Ca. If you travel through the area stop in and they will do a great job. I am glad I didn't listen to Aamco Transmission, and didn't let them touch my car. I hope this helps anyone with a Dodge Caliber. Now, how do I get that cooler door open?????????????????????

 

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

 

I caught that ur car has 83k miles, and you live in California, am I right?
the Cat converter should be under waranty for 8 yrs, 100k miles. you might be still underwaranty? unless u bought the car out of state.

I don't see much problem with the CVT trans unless there is a leak. But if you do need a trans, get a new one, Mopar remanufacturer one w/ waranty, or a used one for cheap. Don't even let trans shop open a CVT trans. it would be a can of worm.

I believe u can pick up CVT fluid for like $11/qts from part store, it should work on Dodge, Nissan, mitsubishi, etc CVT trans...
they all have the same Jetco CVT transmission in it.

cooler door? you can always open it with a Hammer and a Chiesel!
j/k, it really depends on what's broken, you might be able to pick it with a small pick.

 

Hey Steak, what is the service interval an the CVT2? I haven't looked in the owners manual for awhile and I'm too lazy to walk out in the 99* (114 heat index) weather to look. I'm sure I am quite far off at only 20K on the odometer.

 

Owners manual is 100k or lifetime, depends on what u read.
If you do Towing and Off roading, Or just for the sake of maintainence, I am going to say 60k. For the passed 2 yrs, I've only seen/know 1 CVT trans replaced on a Compass in my dealership.


The CVT1 was going out left and right on Nissan, But haven't heard much problems with CVT2.

The powertrain on the Caliber are very reliable. only a little front end suspension problems like leaking Struts and ball joints.

with 20k on the odometer, you really shouldn't have to spend money on it.

 

Good to know. It stays on-road and all towing is done by my Ram. Had a leaking front strut replaced @ 18K up front already.
I have noticed driving it this week that it seems to have a lot of torque management under WOT. Like my Ram did before my Predator tune but if seems worse with the CVT2 trans. I am thinking about removing the ECM fuse and resetting it to see if it will relearn a bit different. When trying to merge onto the highway, it accelerates faster if i floor it then back off the pedal to about 3/4. It usually gets between 29 and 34mpg on the highway and was only rated 27.

The one thing that irritates me is that the rear brakes squeak. They have done it since about 12k. I pulled all of the wheels and checked the brakes. The pads are fine on the front. I went ahead and cleaned the pads and sprayed the Loctite blue anti-squeak on the back of the pads just to be safe. Pulled the rear drums thinking maybe they were full of brake dust causing the noise. They weren't. I sprayed them down with brake cleaner as well as the drums. The shoes still have plenty of material left on them.
My guy at the dealer says cheap imported steel is the reason. I guess I will learn to live with it until they wear down, then I will go aftermarket.

 

u mean the 1 second squeak when u apply and release the brake from the rear?
almost every Caliber and Avenger does that, just need to pry up the Shoe and lube the Backing plate-to-shoe contact point with some Caliper grease, then u be good for few months.

or is it a constant squeal? that would be different story.

I have to say I don't like the driving experience of the CVT, I am more used to traditional trans shifting.
Believe it or not, the 2011 model's torque management is even worse... it is just laggy/sloppy. It feels like I am running a window 95 computer sometimes.

come to think of it, I think the Problem with Nissan is CVT didn't like to mate with a 270 horsepower V6.

I am suprised u can hit 30+ MPG.