2008 Grand Caravan suspension noise???
#21
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My 2004 Caravan pops real bad. I drove it tonight and it popped and crunched like crazy over rediculously small bumps. Thought I was about to start loosing peices. I need to check my bushings I guess. A 1995 Dodge Neon I had and a 1993 Dodge Spirit also done this. I'm at 54,500 miles now. I feel my van is a ticking time bomb of problems. After Google-ing about the van for a few days, I no longer trust the van to stay together past 75,000. Thats sad.
#22
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I believe the cause of all that may come from something so simple. Mechanically, theres nothing wrong. I had the same noise in my
'99 Voyager SWB commercial. I also have it in my '06 Grand Caravan with just under 13k miles. Ya see, there is a nylon accordian tube that is slipped over the strut before it is installed into the spring, to protect the
piston from road debris. In warmer times, when this tube is compressed, it usually expands right back out. But in colder times we are not so lucky.
Now you've got some play between the tube and the top of the spring and its just waiting for ANY flaw in the pavement to go at it. To make sure that this was the same noise I was hearing, I tied the dust boot so that it could not freely travel within the void. Now, I did use just string.
Anything tougher may damage the boot. Besides, after a few miles, I
did'nt have to bother removing it.
'99 Voyager SWB commercial. I also have it in my '06 Grand Caravan with just under 13k miles. Ya see, there is a nylon accordian tube that is slipped over the strut before it is installed into the spring, to protect the
piston from road debris. In warmer times, when this tube is compressed, it usually expands right back out. But in colder times we are not so lucky.
Now you've got some play between the tube and the top of the spring and its just waiting for ANY flaw in the pavement to go at it. To make sure that this was the same noise I was hearing, I tied the dust boot so that it could not freely travel within the void. Now, I did use just string.
Anything tougher may damage the boot. Besides, after a few miles, I
did'nt have to bother removing it.
#23
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well everyone i do have a solution for all of you and will cost you less that stock. the only thing is you need some mechanical skills or a friend who does, or go to a race fabricating shop.
what you need to do is replace the sway bar links due to the fact that it is a metal ball in a nylon socket, go to a metall supply shop and buy 7/16 thick wall dom tubing and four heim joints(rod ends) 1/2 inch cut the tubing 9.25 inches long, drill and tap the tubing to accept the heim joints and using grade 8 bolt and nuts bolt in place of oringinal sway bar links using a 1/2 inch spacer between the sway bar and link as well as in between the strut and link.
this will solve your problen as i have done this on my 2001 which is still the same suspension as the 08 (think dodge could of invested some money in new suspension)
if you dont do this you will be replacing your link on a regular six month basis at $80 each side and eventually destroy your ball joints $80 each, prices do not include labour. the best part is when the heim joint wear out it will only cost about forty dollars to replace the heim joints.
I have done this and only replace the heim joints once in a three year period.
hope you all give this a try and good luck.
what you need to do is replace the sway bar links due to the fact that it is a metal ball in a nylon socket, go to a metall supply shop and buy 7/16 thick wall dom tubing and four heim joints(rod ends) 1/2 inch cut the tubing 9.25 inches long, drill and tap the tubing to accept the heim joints and using grade 8 bolt and nuts bolt in place of oringinal sway bar links using a 1/2 inch spacer between the sway bar and link as well as in between the strut and link.
this will solve your problen as i have done this on my 2001 which is still the same suspension as the 08 (think dodge could of invested some money in new suspension)
if you dont do this you will be replacing your link on a regular six month basis at $80 each side and eventually destroy your ball joints $80 each, prices do not include labour. the best part is when the heim joint wear out it will only cost about forty dollars to replace the heim joints.
I have done this and only replace the heim joints once in a three year period.
hope you all give this a try and good luck.
Last edited by cochleardad; 11-18-2008 at 11:03 AM. Reason: miss spelled some words
#24
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Hi All,
Thanks for all the good ideas/thoughts. I finally have news to report. I had my van at the dealer earlier this week for a check engine light, turned out to be a low batt voltage blip, but they fixed my clunky suspension. They told me there was a fix and I was first in line. The parts would be here it two days. Funny thing is, they never called me, I called them. I doubt I would have been first in line had the check engine light not come on. Anyway, they replaced both front struts, WOW. Fixed finally. It rides and sounds like it should. If any of you are having the same issue, check it out. Good luck.
Thanks for all the good ideas/thoughts. I finally have news to report. I had my van at the dealer earlier this week for a check engine light, turned out to be a low batt voltage blip, but they fixed my clunky suspension. They told me there was a fix and I was first in line. The parts would be here it two days. Funny thing is, they never called me, I called them. I doubt I would have been first in line had the check engine light not come on. Anyway, they replaced both front struts, WOW. Fixed finally. It rides and sounds like it should. If any of you are having the same issue, check it out. Good luck.
#25
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys. I run my own company and things havent been going to well so iv'e been busy trying to get new business.
Anyway the dealer installed different struts and shocks and it sounds alot better now.
Has anyone else had problems with interior clunks and sounds. Mine sounds awful sometimes like the panels aren't on all the way or something. took it back to the dealer and they said everything was tight. And of course they don't hear anything when they test drive it.
My brother inlaw says it is becasue of all the fancy interior stuff they have on the new vans.
He says the more gadgets inside the morte there is to rattle and make noises.
THis is my first loaded vehicle so i reaaly don't know if he could be right or not.
In the past i always bought the cheapest models with no frills.
Anyway the dealer installed different struts and shocks and it sounds alot better now.
Has anyone else had problems with interior clunks and sounds. Mine sounds awful sometimes like the panels aren't on all the way or something. took it back to the dealer and they said everything was tight. And of course they don't hear anything when they test drive it.
My brother inlaw says it is becasue of all the fancy interior stuff they have on the new vans.
He says the more gadgets inside the morte there is to rattle and make noises.
THis is my first loaded vehicle so i reaaly don't know if he could be right or not.
In the past i always bought the cheapest models with no frills.
#26
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Speaking of suspension bushings, what's with all the rubber bushings in the rear suspension rotting after about 5 years? My rear spring-eye bushings are completely shot. I paid the dealer $40 for a pair - enough
to do one side. Does anyone know where I can get "prothane" bushings
that last forever?
Also, when I turn my steering wheel while the van is not moving, I
get alot of vibration - feels like the power steering pump is not putting
out. But, it has plenty of fluid -any ideas?
to do one side. Does anyone know where I can get "prothane" bushings
that last forever?
Also, when I turn my steering wheel while the van is not moving, I
get alot of vibration - feels like the power steering pump is not putting
out. But, it has plenty of fluid -any ideas?
#27
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I installed the MOOG Bushings and Links on my 2003 Grand Caravan Sport and it fixed the problem. The MOOG links were clearly more sturdy that the OEM. The rod itself was about 50% thicker, there were grease fittings on both ends, the bearing housings were more sturdy and with better bearing seals, even the new retaining nuts that came with them were better. I got the parts fast and cheap from Rockauto.com and even found a 5% off coupon.
#28