2000 3.3l stalling question
Been reading as much as I could on this forum about stalling. Here's my symptoms.
Stalls sometimes when I start it up. It will crank and start running then die. Try it again with a little pressure on the gas pedal and it will stay running. Stays running as long as there's pressure on the pedal. Soon as I take my foot off gas, it will stall.
Here's the catch: Doesn't do it all the time. Some days, no stalls. Some days, stalls almost at every light. Have to keep foot on pedal to keep RPMs a little higher than idle or it stalls.
I've replaced the EGR valve. Was going to replace the IAC but Advance Auto didn't have the part in stock. So I took out the old one and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Had a little carbon on the tip but not much.
Could it still be bad? Is there a way to test is while not installed and wired up? Like applying some voltage to make the valve activate?
I will also be checking the vacuum lines and pressure. The wiring harness under the battery tray doesn't look bad, not falling apart or fraying.
No check engine light on yet. Will there be codes in the computer anyway? If so, I will take to Advance to have the computer read.
In the meantime, doing more reading on the forum. I glad it's here.
Thanks in advance.
Joe
Stalls sometimes when I start it up. It will crank and start running then die. Try it again with a little pressure on the gas pedal and it will stay running. Stays running as long as there's pressure on the pedal. Soon as I take my foot off gas, it will stall.
Here's the catch: Doesn't do it all the time. Some days, no stalls. Some days, stalls almost at every light. Have to keep foot on pedal to keep RPMs a little higher than idle or it stalls.
I've replaced the EGR valve. Was going to replace the IAC but Advance Auto didn't have the part in stock. So I took out the old one and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Had a little carbon on the tip but not much.
Could it still be bad? Is there a way to test is while not installed and wired up? Like applying some voltage to make the valve activate?
I will also be checking the vacuum lines and pressure. The wiring harness under the battery tray doesn't look bad, not falling apart or fraying.
No check engine light on yet. Will there be codes in the computer anyway? If so, I will take to Advance to have the computer read.
In the meantime, doing more reading on the forum. I glad it's here.
Thanks in advance.
Joe
I did the key-turn test (off-run-off-run-off-run, then count the flashes of the check engine light, don't start the engine) to get the codes out of my 97. not sure if that's still a possibility in the 00s. Found out my cam sensor was giving faults. replaced it and haven't had a stall out since.
cam or crank sensors could be the problem. faulty TPS. these should bring up a code.
When u had out the IAC did you spray the ports out clean?
also look for a ridge of carbon right behind the throttle plate in the throttle body (old toothbrush gets in here nicely)
what you need to do is find out what your missing when it stalls(fuel,air,spark,ect..)
When u had out the IAC did you spray the ports out clean?
also look for a ridge of carbon right behind the throttle plate in the throttle body (old toothbrush gets in here nicely)
what you need to do is find out what your missing when it stalls(fuel,air,spark,ect..)
Thanks for the tips and info. Yeah, I didn't clean the ports when I had the IAC out. I'll take it out again and do a thorough cleaning. Can't hurt. Also I did some further reading and some folks say it's easy to remove the throttle body itself.
Hemi, as you suggested, I'm going to try and determine was missing. I'm guessing this is going to be difficult since it starts right up after it stalls.
I'll also try the off - on and count the blinking lights.
Hemi, as you suggested, I'm going to try and determine was missing. I'm guessing this is going to be difficult since it starts right up after it stalls.
I'll also try the off - on and count the blinking lights.
Since my last post I've taken out the IAC and cleaned the ports. Cleaned the throttle body. Actually didn't look too bad, no ridges of carbon build up. Engine is still stalling at times. As long as I keep some pressure on the gas pedal it will stay running. However if I'm cruising along at 35 and let off the gas I can see the RPMs drop to below 500. Sometimes it will stall and sometimes will catch itself and come back up to around 800. Does not do this all the time. If it stalls, I can coast in neutral and it starts right back up.
Guys, any thoughts as to what else I could check? Is there a way to test the function of the IAC? Could I have a vacuum leak causing this at times?
Guys, any thoughts as to what else I could check? Is there a way to test the function of the IAC? Could I have a vacuum leak causing this at times?
How does it idle with the transmission in park? And does it die only when you put the transmission in gear.
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It does sometimes stall when in park. Like when I first start it up. It will start and then die. Normally I don't have my foot on the gas to start it so when it starts stalling, I give it a little pressure on the gas.
I don't think I'm losing spark, because it will run ok with my foot on the gas pedal I'm leaning more towards something in the fuel idle process.
I bought a Actron code reader and do have some transmission codes P0700 and P1775 I think. I'm not having any problems with the trans though and I can't clear these codes. No other codes from the engine side either.
I don't think I'm losing spark, because it will run ok with my foot on the gas pedal I'm leaning more towards something in the fuel idle process.
I bought a Actron code reader and do have some transmission codes P0700 and P1775 I think. I'm not having any problems with the trans though and I can't clear these codes. No other codes from the engine side either.



