Posessed Caraven.
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Posessed Caraven.
Working on a 97 Caravan for a buddy. The other day he pulled into a parking spot and the heater blower died i think i have that one traced down to a bad ground on the resistor block the spring that holds it in place over the strut is missing adn according to Alldata that acts as a ground . The rest may or may NOT be related to the blower so here goes. First no signal lights the relay has been checked and replaced with a known working one the multifunction switch as well bulbs are fine the wires have been traced back from the bulb socket to the fuse box they tested fine . Second i definitely think this is related to the signal light issue there are no DRL's nada no workie since this is an older van it shares the signal lights with the drls so......... The only other thing i noticed was that the ignition switch was stiff so we replaced that as well .... Kinda out of ideas here any help ?
Okay, you mean the blower motor or the fan speed ? And did you ck the resistor block at the bulkhead/firewall? What spring are asking about on the strut. Does the four way signal work?
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The blower motor for the HVAC under the passenger side dash. The motor itself was tested and tests fine , Also we tried another switch no change . i have 2 parts vans so all the parts we have can be tested on known working systems . There is a spring that holds the resistor block in place over the passenger side strut a piece of steel with two tangs to hold it in. My understanding is this provides a ground for that system it was alldata or mitchells that mentioned it . The four ways do work yes . Thanks .
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Unsure about power to the relay the wire that feeds the signal light/DRL is good all the way to the fuse box though is there a simple way to test this ? I cant touch it now till tomorrow but any ideas are welcomed . The hazards do work so yes there is power there at least. i was under the impression that the signal lights/hazards shared a relay ? The stalk was removed due to the hazard button getting stuck in the on postion and replaced with a known good one.
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Well, now you Know the flashe relay is good, the light bulbs are good. We should start with the input side. Yes, the hazard lamp shares same relay as turn signal.
You have a test light or Volt meter? Since you say you have Alldata, I would assume you can look up Connector view and Pin ID chart.
You flasher relay should have like 9 pin, or 12 pins if it is DRL equiped.
Print out the Pin chart and Connector view of the Flaher relay.
one end to ground(negative battery), and stick ur test light/volt meter into the the "battery input" and "Ignition sense", your test light should light up or read 12 volts. you know you get power. If you don't, go check fuse, and ignition feed from the Key.
Next, you check for the Turn signal input. This is ground controled. on ur testlight /meter, stick one end to Positive battery, the other end to "left t/s input" and "right t/s input" test light should light up or read 12volts. this checks if you get getting input from the switch.
Since hazard light works, the problem has to be either the turn signal switch(stalk), or you are not getting "key on" signal to the relay. Possibly broken wire, but highly doubt it.
You have a test light or Volt meter? Since you say you have Alldata, I would assume you can look up Connector view and Pin ID chart.
You flasher relay should have like 9 pin, or 12 pins if it is DRL equiped.
Print out the Pin chart and Connector view of the Flaher relay.
one end to ground(negative battery), and stick ur test light/volt meter into the the "battery input" and "Ignition sense", your test light should light up or read 12 volts. you know you get power. If you don't, go check fuse, and ignition feed from the Key.
Next, you check for the Turn signal input. This is ground controled. on ur testlight /meter, stick one end to Positive battery, the other end to "left t/s input" and "right t/s input" test light should light up or read 12volts. this checks if you get getting input from the switch.
Since hazard light works, the problem has to be either the turn signal switch(stalk), or you are not getting "key on" signal to the relay. Possibly broken wire, but highly doubt it.
Last edited by steak59; Feb 13, 2011 at 11:04 PM.
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Well, now you Know the flashe relay is good, the light bulbs are good. We should start with the input side. Yes, the hazard lamp shares same relay as turn signal.
Ok im getting ready to go down and try this i hate electrical work
but i do have the test lights DVM's and such so with some help i should be ok
You have a test light or Volt meter? Since you say you have Alldata, I would assume you can look up Connector view and Pin ID chart.
Yes and yes found them both
You flasher relay should have like 9 pin, or 12 pins if it is DRL equiped.
Print out the Pin chart and Connector view of the Flaher relay.
Done
one end to ground(negative battery), and stick ur test light/volt meter into the the "battery input" and "Ignition sense", your test light should light up or read 12 volts. you know you get power. If you don't, go check fuse, and ignition feed from the Key.
Guessing here when i test the "Ignition sense" circuit the key should be on ? Which fuse should be checked if there is no power ? and sorry for so many questions ignition feed from the key ? where would i find that ?
Next, you check for the Turn signal input. This is ground controled. on ur testlight /meter, stick one end to Positive battery, the other end to "left t/s input" and "right t/s input" test light should light up or read 12volts. this checks if you get getting input from the switch.
Ok sounds simple enough.
Since hazard light works, the problem has to be either the turn signal switch(stalk), or you are not getting "key on" signal to the relay. Possibly broken wire, but highly doubt it.
Ok im getting ready to go down and try this i hate electrical work
but i do have the test lights DVM's and such so with some help i should be ok You have a test light or Volt meter? Since you say you have Alldata, I would assume you can look up Connector view and Pin ID chart.
Yes and yes found them both
You flasher relay should have like 9 pin, or 12 pins if it is DRL equiped.
Print out the Pin chart and Connector view of the Flaher relay.
Done
one end to ground(negative battery), and stick ur test light/volt meter into the the "battery input" and "Ignition sense", your test light should light up or read 12 volts. you know you get power. If you don't, go check fuse, and ignition feed from the Key.
Guessing here when i test the "Ignition sense" circuit the key should be on ? Which fuse should be checked if there is no power ? and sorry for so many questions ignition feed from the key ? where would i find that ?
Next, you check for the Turn signal input. This is ground controled. on ur testlight /meter, stick one end to Positive battery, the other end to "left t/s input" and "right t/s input" test light should light up or read 12volts. this checks if you get getting input from the switch.
Ok sounds simple enough.
Since hazard light works, the problem has to be either the turn signal switch(stalk), or you are not getting "key on" signal to the relay. Possibly broken wire, but highly doubt it.
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Ok Aalldata shows battery input (main) in pin 1 that circuit tests ok ignition sense (input) pin 6 no power regardless of where the key is. So.......in guessing this is the problem....this van is equipped with DRL's whats the best way to move forward here ?
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Think i got it the TS BU LMP fuse in the junction block circuit A22D was blown replaced it as soon as i turned the key on it blew heard the chimes then the fuse went......ideas ? anyone ? This circuit also controls the blower motor relay so ya this is the cause of everything ....!