Took the 06 GC to the dealer to check if the rear evaporator was bad
They call me and and let me know that it was bad BUT my condenser had a big hole in it also.
They also said they wouldn't even try to charge it because of the leak
Then they informed be that it would 950.00 to do the condenser. parts and labor that included $150 for charging it.

Now, why am im being charged to charge the system? shouldn't part be covered under the evaporator work?

Well, I didn't have the work done & took the van home. The warranty paper claims they put 1lb freon in w/dye BUT i cant see any holes or dye in or on the condenser anywhere
The warranty claim also states that the tech charged the system with 3lbs.

I don't get it. It looks like they are trying to scam me
Any suggestions how to proceed from here?

 

well, did they replaced the rear evap tho?
if they did, You can buy a 2 bottle of freons from Part store, charge it, and see if it leaks out of the condensor like they claim.

 

The first thing a tech does, is do a reclaim on the a/c system and then a vacuum leak test. Now if the system had a big hole in the system, that would tell me to stop. The only time I would add freon is to see where the leak is. And if the condensor is leaking,how did they find out that rear evaporator was bad?

 

When they called, the service guy said "When the tech drew down the system, he also found the condenser leaking" (exact words)

But, the notes from the tech say " Verified that the A/C is blowing warm. Installed 1lb 134 with tracer dye. verified rear evaporator &
front condenser is leaking. replaced rear evap with jumper tubes. didn't recharge dye to condenser leaking"

Shouldn't I be able see the dye on the condenser or this "big hole" ? How can I verify this myself ?
How hard is that condenser to change? I can get a spectra for $160 @ the zone

 

The condenser is very easy to change. And yes, they should charge your system as part of the warrenty evaperator repair. So install your own condenser and take it back for them to charge it. I doubt you could see the hole in the condenser, that's why we charge them with freon to identify the leak points.

24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing, Front/CONDENSER, A/C/Removal

2.4L/3.3L/3.8L ENGINES



WARNING: Refer to the applicable warnings and cautions for this system before performing the following operation (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Warning and (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Caution) . Failure to follow the warnings and cautions could result in possible personal injury or death.


NOTE: Before removing the A/C condenser, note the location of each of the radiator and condenser air seals. These air seals are used to direct air through the A/C condenser and radiator. The air seals must be reinstalled in their proper locations in order for the A/C and engine cooling systems to perform as designed. 1.Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Standard Procedure) .2.Remove the front fascia (Refer to 13 - Frame and Bumpers/Bumpers/FASCIA, Front - Removal) .
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the quick-connect fittings from the transmission oil cooler tapping block when disconnecting the transmission oil cooler lines from the cooler. 3.Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the quick-connect fittings located on the transmission oil cooler tapping block on the left side of the A/C condenser (combination cooler) (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Transmission - Standard Procedure) .
Figure 1 - A/C Condenser - Left Hand View

1 - A/C CONDENSER (COMBINATION COOLER) 2 - AUTO TRANS COOLER TAPPING BLOCK 3 - UPPER CONDENSER MOUNTING BRACKET (2) 4 - RADIATOR 5 - LOWER CONDENSER MOUNTING BRACKET (2) 4.Disconnect the A/C discharge line and the A/C liquid line from the right side of the A/C condenser (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/LINE, A/C Discharge - Removal) and (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/LINE, A/C Liquid - Removal) .5.Install plugs in, or tape over the opened discharge and liquid line fittings and the condenser ports.6.Disengage the retaining clips that secure the upper A/C condenser mounting brackets to the radiator.7.Lift the A/C condenser (combination cooler) straight up to disengage the lower mounting brackets from the radiator and carefully remove the condenser from the engine compartment.
Figure 2 - A/C Condenser - Right Hand View

1 - A/C CONDENSER (COMBINATION COOLER) 2 - LOWER CONDENSER MOUNTING BRACKET (2) 3 - CONDENSER PORTS 4 - RETAINING CLIP (2) 5 - UPPER CONDENSER MOUNTING BRACKET (2) 6 - RADIATOR




front fascia is pretty easy, 2 10mm bolt on top. 3 8mm for each headlamp assembly and pull them out. There is an 8mm nut in each headlamp opening. 2 phillips screws in the front of the wheelwell opening. One 8mm screw in each wheel well opening going upward. 5 xmas tree fasteners across the underside. Disconnect the fog lamps. Pull down and back from each wheel well and off it comes. 2 15mm nuts for each bumper reinforcement and disconnect the fan relay. Disconnect the a/c lines and the transmission cooler lines and off comes the condenser. Or pretty close to that anyway.

 

Thanks Tizzy, that was really easy with the awesome info from your post.
It literately took me 1 hr & 5 mins to do the whole thing, in my driveway with no air tools.
I'm sure a tech could do it in 45 mins or less

I'm very happy it was easy but a little PO'd that the dealer wants $350 labor for this portion of the job.

BTW, to top it all off, an 85yr old lady hit my van at the dealership when it was there. LOL
She hit the rear tail light & ripped a hole in the rear bumper
Now I have to bring it today for a rear bumper cover & paint
I'm hoping they will cover the freon portion of the job for free... wish me luck

 

The $350 probably included the recharge so it would be pretty close if it wasn't supposed to be charged under warrenty. Otherwise the condenser pays 1.5 hours, so whatever the labor rate is.

Good luck on the recharge.